JD-33

ok cheers mate,, tomorrow I go round 2 with the biatch... i better win -JD

I take it this boost controller is strictly a manual one.. where in order to increase/decrease the boost you gotta pop ur bonnet to make the change.. any way at all you can make it adjustable inside cabin? dont expect it to for $35.. -JD PS: as you can tell I know nothing about these boost controllers

Hrmm ,, so push down on the wiper right next to where the nut was removed .. :S .. so take nut off push wiper down then springs back up... sorta confused ..

Marc, PM Sent to you! Cheers, -JD

what is the name of the boost controller under Ebay?? The one which marc is offering for $28 to us.. A link would be good.. just to check it out.. Cheers.. -JD << Dont worry I found it with a little searching power >>

$22 boost controller you say .. link me up to this boys! I'm sure it will suffice until I purchase an EBC .. Also, does everyone who has used the $22 controller think it is reasonable? Cheers -JD

yeah man tell me about it being binded to the shaft!! i used wd40 , oil and everything else that makes shit slippery and it still wont budge!! grrr.. Skyline - 1 ... JD - 0

Hi all, Below is a guide on how to install NOS onto a skyline. Prefereable an RB26DETT in this case... This NOS kit contains all the hardware necessary for an inline fuel injected, six cylinder engine. It's a system, meaning that it injects both fuel and nitrous through the patented NOS nozzles. Included are all hoses, lines, nozzles, distribution blocks, solenoids, filters, connectors and switches. The standard with a 10 lb. nitrous bottle. This standard bottle was used in the installation. It can, however, be ordered with either a 15 lb. or a 20 lb. nitrous bottle. These larger bottle sizes can be specified by adding a suffix to the part number. To begin, the location and orientation of the NOS nitrous bottle had to be determined. It was decided that the trunk would provide the best location, but the bottle had to be mounted so that the siphon tube would be at the back of the bottle. This is necessary because the liquid N2O will be forced to the back of the bottle during vehicle acceleration. When installed, the bottle should have its valve handle pointed toward the front of the vehicle, with the NOS bottle label facing "up". The bottle bracket was secured using 5/16" or No. 12 sheet metal screws. Next, the main nitrous feed line was installed from the trunk to the engine bay. It's easiest to route this line following either the main fuel line or the brake lines under the vehicle. One-half inch Tinnerman clamps or nylon tie-wraps could be used to securely support the nitrous line. A hole must be drilled through the trunk, under the vehicle, to gain access to the nitrous bottle. At this point, it's a good idea to disconnect the Negative ground terminal from the battery to avoid any unpleasant surprises. Prior to removing the intake manifold for installation of the Fogger™ nozzles, mark on the manifold the desired nozzle locations. These should be located approximately one inch (1") from the cylinder head. Make sure that there is adequate clearance for the nozzles, lines, fittings and distribution block. Remove the intake manifold and retain all hardware for re-installation. Remember to use new gaskets when re-installing. Take precautions such as covering the intake ports to prevent any debris from entering the engine. A clean engine is a happy engine. Refer to the manufacturer's service manual for sequence and torquing of manifold bolts. Once more, measure and verify the intake manifold location where you intend to install each nozzle. All holes drilled should be perpendicular to their respective intake runner. Carefully drill a ¼" diameter hole for each nozzle. If possible, drill the holes so that they all line up straight on the manifold. Use a 1/16" NPT tap on each hole. Because this is a pipe thread, be careful not to run the tap too deep into the manifold runner hole as this may prevent the nozzles from adequately sealing. The goal here is to have the discharge orifice of the nozzle clear the sealing of the runner to assure that the nitrous is being properly distributed. After the drilling and tapping has been completed, clean the manifold thoroughly and remove all debris. Apply Teflon paste to the nozzle threads before installing them in the manifold. This is to avoid the possibility of any vacuum leaks from occurring. Teflon® tape should not be used because it requires relatively more torque to properly seal. This could cause damage to the NOS fittings and nozzles. Teflon could also break loose and become lodged in the nitrous or fuel solenoids, or solenoid filters. This can cause engine damage or failure. Install a NOS nozzle into each of the ¼" manifold runner holes. Orient them so that each discharge orifice is pointed down the intake manifold port, toward the cylinder head intake valve. The discharge nozzle orifice needs to clear the roof of the intake runner by about 1/8". Be careful not to over-torque the nozzles. Now is the time for bending the hard lines to connect the nozzles to their respective distribution blocks. A tube-bending tool, available under NOS P/N 15991NOS, is required for this work. Use all the fittings provided and be aware that NOS has color-coded the nitrous lines so that "red" is for fuel and "blue" represents nitrous. Nitrous nozzle feed lines should be bent and plumbed so that they are in line with each distribution block. Re-install the intake manifold, using all hardware that was retained during its removal. Be sure to use a new intake manifold gasket. Re-attach all lines, electronics and any other parts that were removed or disconnected during the intake manifold removal process. The next step is to tap into the fuse box for an ignition-activated power source for the toggle switch that is used to "arm" the nitrous system. This switch can be installed at a location on the dash that is convenient to the driver. Activating this switch puts the nitrous system into a "standby" mode. The system itself won't actually function until the engine is at wide open throttle . This condition is confirmed by a microswitch that is installed on the throttle body. The purge valve can be installed at this time. This valve is activated to expel or purge the nitrous lines prior to use, for more consistent performance. This procedure is good insurance that the nitrous lines are free of air and/or gaseous nitrous that could hinder or compromise performance. Be sure that the purge line is aimed away from the motor. A good idea is to have the purge line aimed so that it will shoot up and over the windshield. The last installation step is to plumb an additional source of fuel to the fuel solenoid. Fortunately, the Skyline had an extra ¼" NPT tap on the O.E. fuel rail, this was used as a fuel source. More fuel is required when using a nitrous system because a lean condition will otherwise result. Have FUN! -JD

can anyone who has successfully done this, take a quick pic of their boost job? i.e. showing the solenoid, and where they grounded the wire.. Cheers, -JD

Hi all,, I am trying to get my wipers off my 97 gtst ... i undid the nut under the little black rubber cap and have been trying to pull the biatch off for like 15 mins now... I cant see it held on with any other nut or bolt.. correct me if i am wrong.. Reason I wanna remove them is to give them a fresh paint (as they are badly faded).. Any help thanks... -JD

Hi guys, anyone know who sells and installs mongoose alarms in the ACT ? I am after the M80G Cheers -JD

Hi all, I am thinking about getting the M80G, however in my old crx I had a RHINO alarm and loved it (mainly because of the auto window up feature) anyone suggest good alarms around $500 which has the window up feature? Cheers -JD

So does that mean that teh skyline gtst gear shaft is a 12mm thickness? i.e. what the trust knob is? I have read elsewhere that the skyline shaft is 10mm ... -JD

Hi All, I am currently looking for a comfortable gear knob which will fit directly onto r33 shaft (i.e. one that screws on with no modification) Ive got an r33 s2 (i doubt if the s2 matters with the shaft thickness) Cheers -JD PS: I was thinking about the TRUST Gear knob.. http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/350 any thought on this one?

yeah true,, it is fresh off the boat from japan so maybe they placed them in there so the car doesnt jump around as much on the boat (which is possible).. hrmmmmm -JD

na doesnt fall out cause its under pressure when the car is jacked down,, when i jacked it up they were very loose... i could pretty much slip the out with ease .. there were two in my springs and one behind the suspension arm... heaps weird... i am glad i found them early but, because i have to pass rego check within 14 days (ie transfer NSW to ACT) .. the dude at the rego check would have been like WTF R U DOIN MAN U GOT WOOD IN UR SPRINGS U IDIOT .. haha any way... i would really like to know the reason why they were actually placed in there at all... -JD

haha yeah same here man.. im confused as... thats why the only reasoning i have is the jap guy who owned it may not have wanted to pay like $3000 for tein drift springs so he did the shonky... Any one else have an opinion i would love to hear it.. Cheers -JD

Hi all, I got my 33 gtst two days ago and today I found that there is blocks (i mean like 2" by 3") embedded in between some of my coils in my front suspension?? wtf? My only guess for this is that is provides a stiffer ride with better handling ? I removed the blocks of wood (3 blocks form each side!!) and now the car sits 1 cm lower at the front.. Anyone heard of wood in springs before? If so is it meant to prevent something bad, or to provide a stiffer susupension setup? Cheers -JD

cheers mate,, ur a legend,, man i suck at searching Cheers -JD

hi guys, wondering if ayone has pics and/or advice on how to remove the front door panels in order to replace the speakers... i.e. where the screws are located and how to pop it off.. Cheers -JD

yeah my car is an m type and has no sunroof ...

gotta agree the dash looks the best, however for security reasons its not the best place.. my mate had his windscreen smashed and his nice big blue apexi unit ripped out.. they didnt get anything else, just the apexi.. Keep this in mind if you park in dark carparks at night time for long periods.. -JD

haha sure did mate! he's a legend! ... so i take it you got your car from him too? hows it going? i get mine this sat, which is why its got no plates on it at the moment.. -JD

Hi all, Below is a pic of my car and was wondering how to remove the sun window visor thingy without leaving sticky looking residue where it was stuck? Or to just remove it then use some chemicals to remove sticky stuff? Cheers, -JD

ahh thanks guys!! nice DIY guide Wink.. yeah i think i will be getting the profec b spec 2 .. my mate bought the original profec b about 5 years ago and it seemed to do the job pretty well.. Also, is there any major difference in getting a dual solenoid over single for EBC? I am unfamiliar with solenoids as such... cheers. -JD