govich

OK, so i've now done the following: - Tested the fuel pump and fuel system, pumping fine to just outside the rail. - Pulled a coil off and put a spark plug in it against the block, pulled out the crank angle sensor and turned it with ignition on, can hear injectors ticking and there's spark. (why the hell isn't it starting just from the above two?) - Water temp sensor gets power, reading of ~3V seems good at about 20 degrees (from the engine manual) <- is there a better way to test the operation of this? - .. a whole bunch of continuity tests on ecu pins, all fuses are fine, afm voltage is OK (1V) when cranking. I'm out of ideas. Any tips greatly appreciated.

Playing with the throttle does nothing while cranking and nothing while it's turning over at 200rpm. I think aphid might be onto something. The coolant temp sensor gets no 5V signal when the key is turned to ignition on (specified by the engine manual). I think there might be more wiring shenanigans at play, might expose a bit of this wire at the ecu and see if it's sending out a signal. At this point i think either some of the ecu is stuffed or there's some wiring that's been knocked out somehow (since even the consult plug gets no power). Thanks guys

Now i've discovered something interesting. I can't get error codes out of the ECU because there's no power to either of the pins on the Consult connector (tested with a test light), so bridging them does nothing. Anyone in sydney got a spare factory ECU they wouldn't mind lending me for about 5 minutes? I'm stuffed for today, can't be bothered testing more..

Cheers, yeah, i don't know why i thought that'd fix it anyway. Has anyone had a fuel pressure regulator fail on them? What are the symptoms like? It's all i can think of at the moment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fIF6Nh7gCo hope this helps

OK i've checked the pulsing to the injectors and that's fine, the grey wire gets constant 12V and the white wire gets grounded on and off. I found my battery was down to 11.8V so i'm charging it overnight, it could be that the battery is too flat to run the car. I doubt it though as the morning it wouldn't start was only about 7-8 hours after it'd been running for a good 20 minutes, and i've been cranking the car on and off for a few days . It's charging at the moment though, i definitely hope it's something simple like this Would the car struggle to start/run if the voltage was too low? It's still cranking fine so i'm thinking these two are mutually exclusive.

Hi guys, Well after recently fixing the fuel system, the car's decided to crap itself again. Basically, if i leave it for a few hours, the car will kick over and maybe struggle around 200-250rpm (checked on e-manage ultimate) but eventually turn off. Subsequent attempts to start it result in just cranking and cranking with the engine sounding like it's on the edge of starting. Fuel pump primes fine, i've checked fuel pressure just before the fuel pressure reg and it's spurting out plenty while cranking. The E-manage ultimate registers an AFM voltage while cranking so it's getting air. Playing with the throttle while cranking or while it's struggling makes no difference. The EMU also shows the RPM it's cranking over at, so the CAS is working. The spark plugs shouldn't be fouled as the car drove fine the night before and simply refused to start in the morning. All fuses under the dash, in the engine bay, and in the boot are fine. Is about 180-250rpm the correct cranking speed? It sounds like the normal speed audibly. Any other ideas? I'd appreciate any help here. Cheers guys, I'll post up the fix when i get it again.

r32woohoo, i have an rb20/26 ignitor sitting around, was working when it got pulled (so i assume it still is). Let me know if you want to arrange something (i'm in sydney)

hi, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t186472.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t186513.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t183963.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t187342.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t186359.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t180944.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t185331.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t184031.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t127057.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t136683.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t114981.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t124285.html and the big one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t32356.html knock yourself out.

Heath, just as an idea, Pulse's dyno gave me 216kW the first time and 232.9kW the second time on a stock R33 turbo. I thought this a little enthusiastic compared to the typical figures, and Unique Autosports' dyno about a week later gave 205.5kW which is about right. Damn i'd love one of those Garrett units though. It looks similar to a HKS 2535/GTRS in terms of boost threshold/power.

I do physically have a FPCM in my car, and Pin 104 from the ECU still goes to it, but its operation is bypassed by having a chassis ground on the fuel pump negative terminal. Electrically the FPCM may aswell not be there as there is negligible current running through it compared to my chassis ground. ie. if the FPCM wasn't in the car, the car would perform the same, except maybe the ECU would throw out an error code for FPCM malfunctioning (not sure if there is one). Hope that helps, i might draw up a diagram if you'd prefer. Don't have time now though. In other news, my fuel system is AOK 100% but the car won't start again, this time it sounds like it isn't firing (i wish i could run the car off the fuel pump because it sounds so damn loud and eager), so i have to diagnose the whole spark side of the system. There's no blown fuses anywhere either. I think this car is playing with me, because it splutters into life and then turns off just as quickly on the first try after leaving it resting for a while, but then won't even fire after that. I've checked the whole fuel system, tried the direct battery feed to fuel pump positive, makes no difference. Might even be a blockage somewhere, but i'm pretty sure the motor is getting fuel, and the fuel pump isn't straining. edit: the problem here ended up being a hose coming loose from the idle air control valve assembly, the engine started fine with a bit of assistance on the gas pedal.

I didn't actually find the FPCM. I've grounded the negative terminal of the fuel pump just outside the tank and this bypasses all the varying ground shenanigans and gives the full voltage at all times. I looked for it for about 30minutes before realising i didn't have to anyway. edit: and yeah it is just basically a variable resistor

LOL i just disconnected whatever made it shut up. Thanks for that, i've updated the post above with a photo of the actual beeper (and the windows still work!).

Sorry i should have made it clearer, i cut the blue/white wire and replaced it with the blue wire in that photo. Personally i think you shouldn't bother with the FPCM, just connect the negative terminal of the fuel pump to a chassis ground. Also for the last part of my post, if you remove the beeper the power window switches stop operating, so it looks like it'll have to stay in a little longer while i figure out how to get around this. Cheers

Hey guys, Well i've finally solved my problem. I'll make this post comprehensive so that anyone who has this problem can follow and hopefully diagnose their problem. First here's a mspaint sketch of the fuel pump control system in an R33 GTS25t. From the diagram above you can extrapolate what you need to test if your fuel pump is getting no power or you're getting no priming when you turn the key to ignition on. The following are possible if you have such a problem: 1) Blown fuse. Check the Fuel pump fuse in the boot (15A). This fuse is on the battery-to-relay link. Note: DO NOT try giving the pump a live link direct from the battery under any circumstances here. 2) Blown/bad relay. Check the Fuel pump relay (next to the row of blade fuses in the boot) by replacing it with another, i recommend the air con relay in the fuse panel under the bonnet. 3) Blown A/T Control fuse, possibly the wire from the fuse panel to relay grounding on the chassis. Check the "A/T Control" fuse (10A) in the dash fuse panel, replace and see if it blows again. If it does, you probably have the wire shorting. Follow what i did below. 4) Check the fuel pump works, by exposing some of the fuel pump positive wire (stock wire is light blue with silver bars), and connecting a direct link from battery positive to this exposed bit of wire. I don't recommend driving the car around like this, as the link is not fused, but it could be used to get you home, just BE CAREFUL! If it doesn't do anything or primes but very weakly, try giving it a good ground by exposing the fuel pump negative wire and connecting it directly to a good grounding point (suggest battery negative). If this still doesn't work, have a look at the in-tank wiring or fuel pump itself. In my case, the problem was the car constantly blowing the A/T Control fuse in the dash fuse box. I checked that the ECU was grounding pin 18 and that was working fine. I then replaced the 10A A/T Control fuse with a 15A fuse to get a better idea of the problem, and the 15A fuse blew straight away, suggesting the fusebox-to-relay wire was grounding on the chassis. The culprit wire is blue with white stripes and silver bars (see below). First i cut this wire at the relay and attached my own wire: Then on the back of the fuse panel: After doing this (and obviously soldering the connections and insulating with electrical tape) i idled the car for a fair while and it hasn't blown the A/T control fuse again yet, so unless i come back on here with profanities within the next few days, that was my problem. The car now works fine. As a bonus, i also found that very annoying beeper for when you have the driver's side door open and the key in the barrell. edit: actually found it this time, here's a photo from below. (thanks to SevenAngryPenguins for helping me locate this) Hope this helps someone.

I don't see why that would be the case, since the current drawn by the pump (from a DC supply) is proportional to the voltage across it. I've already got the negative terminal grounded anyway. That has nothing to do with my current problem though, since it's a different circuit. I bought plenty of 25A-rated wire today and will probably get stuck into finishing this off tomorrow.

I now think this is a bunch of bs spread by a lot of people (no offence intended). The stock wiring is fine (to a point, obviously), but R33 GTS25ts come with a little thing called the Fuel Pressure Control Module, which is basically a variable ground for the fuel pump, and the ECU varies the voltage across the pump through the FPCM according to the load on the engine so that the amount of fuel recirculated to the tank is minimised. Obviously this is meant for a stock setup, so that it might not be an ideal method of operation for an upgraded engine or upgraded fuel pump. Grounding the negative terminal of the pump directly, as is often done, bypasses the operation of the FPCM by providing a constant healthy ground at all times. However this also means that the pump is working 100% all of the time, and a lot of fuel is recirculated by the fuel pressure regulator, meaning it gets hotter (from passing by the hot motor), which has consequences.

Just for the sake of those in future who are going to have this problem, i'm going to keep posting progress. I've canned the relay idea, since the ECU grounds the inductor in the relay as opposed to providing power to it. (ie. you'd need to provide a really low voltage supply to the relay in order to set up your own working relay) I've narrowed my problem down to the "A/T Controller" fuse (2nd from the top on the right column of the fuse box under the dash) blowing intermittently (This fuse is on the power link to the inductor in the fuel pump relay), regardless of what size fuse i put in (15A blows just as readily as 10A). This makes me think that this wire is shorting on the chassis (etc) somewhere. It also blows at seemingly random intervals, meaning this theory is even more likely. I'm going to cut both ends and join them with a new wire outside the car to see if it still keeps blowing this fuse.

If you can let me know where the FPCM is i'll take as many pictures of it as you want..

OK i've found out the hard way that R33 GTST only uses Pin 104 on the ECU, as opposed to Pin 18 on some other models, and sends a signal to the FPCM through 104. Would anyone be so kind as to tell me where i can find the control module? Is it stashed above the fuel tank with the HICAS computer? The engine manual has nothing. edit: I've had it with the stock wiring, way too complicated, i'm just going to splice the wire coming from Pin 104 on the ECU and use it for my own relay setup. Might post pics in the DIY section when i get around to it. For the more electrically inclined people, please let me know if there's any problems with this proposed setup: - Use a 12V 4pin relay rated to 30A (standard) - ECU signal from pin 104 to Relay pin 1 (inductor in) - Relay pin 2 (inductor out) to ground - Relay pin 3 (switched link in) to battery positive - Relay pin 4 (switched link out) to fuel pump positive - 15A fuse between battery positive and relay pin 3

Nice timing, i'm troubleshooting that relay at the moment. http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/fb.JPG the blue/black is battery pos., the one that's really bright is light blue with grey bars and that's fuel pump positive, the other 2 are the switching wires

The relay in the boot is definitely not getting a switching signal. It has perfect voltage from the battery and i just confirmed the relay itself is working. Fuel pump fuse is fine. I'm pulling the interior apart now to get at the wires. Cheers

Thanks for the reply Dave. The story goes, it's a Walbro pump and has been in the car for a long time (4-5months now), including track days and all. Then the other day the car just died, turns out the relay was shagged and was blowing fuses. So got a relay and fuse and it worked fine for about an hour's worth of driving, and then stopped again, except this time it's not blowing fuses and the same relay is fine. I'm a bit stumped, i guess i'll have to trace the wiring back. Oh and R33s have a relay in the boot, apparently there's another one next to the ECU which i'm about to look into.

Hey guys, I've got an R33 GTS25t, and i've got no voltage on the positive wire for the fuel pump, as tested just outside the tank. The relay and fuse in the boot are fine, along with the fuel pump. I drove it home by exposing a bit of the fuel pump wiring and connecting a line direct from battery positive. Any ideas on where to look in the stock wiring? If i can't figure it out i might just set up my own relay.. Cheers edit: FIXED! Guide is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3382664 . Also read the rest of the thread for more helpful input.

Why does having the transmission change gears in 0.05s matter during highway cruising? The V6 will end up sounding better than an RB with a big exhaust droning at constant revs after an hour or 3. Boat - same thing, it was made to be comfortable while cruising along on the highway - Skylines with stiff suspension are a bitch on long trips, you just want to get out of it and into something comfortable. Most common car on the road - helps when it stops in the middle of nowhere or when it comes to service time and just about anyone has the parts/knowledge. Your experiences flogging a VY SS have nothing to do with my suggestion to this bloke to buy a V6 family car which was made to do exactly what he wants to use this car for.