TOYR33

************$17,800********* PRICE DROP

$18,000 Anyone? need to sell to make room for new car next week

Price Drop $18,200

bump!

ye just need to sell it asap as my new car is comming soon, otherwise price would be much higher as i have spent big $$$ on it, sad to see it go

anybody intrested?

what do you guys think about the price? need to sell asap as new car will be comming soon

Car Sold, pls remove post. thanks

ye traction problems were real bad, was getting 105-106mph 14.2 @ 2.6 60 foot time, that at calder would be 13.00 with a 2.0-2.1 60 footer. also didnt like that you couldnt actually see your time until you actually came around were as calder even while your still on the strip you see your time, was a good day out.

its not very hard i just changed my Dump pipe(split pipe) front pipe and hi flow, last week, soak the bolts in wd40 and you shouldnt have a problem just take it easy on the bolts as they will be rusted. my new dump pipe came with a gasket kit but the original nissan gasket is made out of metal (off the back of turbo) so just left that one as it looked like much better quality then the new one. but its best you change your front pipe/cat gaskets

so, would you say taking of with the hand brake up sitting on boost as you launch or just ride the clutch as much as possible and take of on 0 psi, as for example autos when they stall it up they always take of on boost

i would take them, but i live in melb spuin an need them for saturday, any special take off techneeks with brass button clutches? were u cant really ride? ive tried hand brake helps a little

thats a pretty mad 60'' time man, ye standard clutch is much better than b/button as theres no ride in the clutch its on or off, so wen u try take off at 3-4000rpm ~~~~~ what was your finanal 1/4 mile time with a your 60' at 1.9 and mph?

ye that right, so im assuming the 16/215/60 will work betta say at 18-20psi than the 17/235/45? i think the main problem is the clutch coz it so frictiony and its pretty much impossible to ride and from the take of shock/stress on the small profile just starts spining. the car makes just over 200rwk. any ideas on a better take of strategy the 17's are potenza gIII's, and the 16's are good year eagle ga

thanks, ye that sounds right, just had a few ppl tell me dont bother with rims (something like a 45 profile) as it will only spin especially with a b/bustton clutch, i will be testing both sets of tyres this saturday so wel see what happends, has anybody had any Actual experiences were they have compared a both smaller and larger profiles?

hi guys, just wondering would there be an advantage of using a tyre with a bigger wall e.g (60) for less wheel spin of the line? for e.g i used my 17/45/235 rims (potenza gIII) last time for the 1/4 mile and it was getting heaps of wheel spin (b/button clutch) if i used a 16/60/215 but flattend to say 16-18psi would it grip more as the tyre has more flex on the wall?

thanks dude, on my soleniod both are really just open because i have venting bov so first hose is open and then the bottom one thats goes back into the intake is also open because i have a s/steel intake pipe of the turbo to the afm, would this cause aqny boost crep or spike of anysort, im getting a bit of a flat spot just in 2nd gear from bout 3500-4500rpm

hi guys, just wondering once you fit a manual boost controller on the rb25det, do you have 2 block the factory boost soleniod or d/conect it or do you leave it just open, because one vacum line gets pulled of to go into the new boost control?

hi guys, just wondering has any1 tested potenza gIII's on the 1/4 mile, have they decreased the 60'' time? i currently have falken ziex or sumfin like that went calder few weeks bak and 60'' were like 2.3 2.5 it was shocking, even deflated, just piked up the gIII's fitting them this weekend so well c how it goes or do you's think just use 16inch tyres with a biger wall and drop the presure for betta 60'' time, what would be more affective

Thats awsome, id be wraped with a low 13, what u rekon of a 16inch tyre with the bigger side wall and just flatten the pressure down, i heard that works really well if its got a big wall so it has flex? has anybody tried that? and what were you 60'' times like

ye thats true, the only thing was take of that was reking the times, 2.3-2.6 60'' is crap, especially now with the b/button clutch spins like crazy, with the slicks my mate will let me borow his so wont really waste any money there, the car makes 202rwks, my mate with simular pwr managed a 12.87 his 60'' was like 1.6 or 1.7, thats using the full slicks so ye whats ppls best times with say 190-200rwk in a r33 ? using street tyres

its got 34gtt rims 235x45x17, tyres are the cheapest u can buy proper tyres not remoulds, but tyres are crap as no grip whatsoever. Ohh there not the only mods car has, got fresh engine fmic steel wheel trb custom box,cold air intake boost control on 11psi but drops to 9 top end all the basic stuff and got that time down the qtr my clutch went that night so it now has been replaced with the exdy b/button kit i have also now added the split dump pipe,new 3inch front pipe and hi flow cat, hopefully goin to run it again this week or next. so just wanted to see if its worth going threw the trouble of getting the slicks on to get a good time or if its not gona do much, taking into account the details

my 60'' times were rangin between 2.3-2.6 which is pretty crap?

Just wondering how much of a difference Slicks would make compared to street tyres on the 1/4 mile my car ran 13.5 on street tyres @105mph (traction problems) what would you be hoping for roughly with slicks? Got new b/button clutch now aswel and have added split pipe new front pipe and h/flow cat

Selling TurboSmart Type II Blow of Valve Latest Model (V Port) Fully Adjustable Hard-Soft RRP $300+ (Autobarn) Looking at $110 perfect condition. ALSO Power Up Blue series Boost Control perfect condition $40 Call 0413 403 028 Melbourne buyer prefered (Pick Up)