Faid

Hey chris being a GTR owner myself, the 250 awkw is achievable. but boosting the stock turbs to 1 bar is dangerous, as the ceramic exhaust wheel start to break aroun that boost. the mods you have will support it, but dont expect it to live very long. 3inch exhaust is far more than enough. would consider swapping the turbs for HKS GT-SS or R34 N1 and putting a nice FMIC in. The APEX pods are one of the best on the market, if not the best. the stock intercooler will suffice, but dont be surprised when on a hot day it gets mayor heat soak. on the stock car this is achiveable, but would question the relaibility of the setup.

well thanks gary, with the fiddling on the cam gears i now hit my full boost around the 4800ish. my advice to people with RB26 and cam gears, fiddle around with them, they help you alot. and also gary, while working on the ign map i was able to iron out some flat spots, so when moving to boost it feels way more responsive, and also the stopwatch trick prooved it to me with measurable numbers. i build my ful boos a full 0.8 secs earlier, the car pulls quite constantly towards boost, not like before when i would move like a donkey, and then run like a cheetah.

hey thanks gary. Ill have a crack at the valve timing when i get to work in a couple of hours. if i could loose 400-500rpm off the full boost time, it would be a start. i use a HKS knock AMP for my knock detection, but on the job i have some chassis ears, as they have to be used when working on diesel engines (high comp mofo's). but so far on the PFC, my knock has not exeeded 7. My tune is a tad lean for my taste, on full boost i get a 11.8-11.9 ratio @ 79% duty cycle. but i have the timing expert collegue look over the timing, he does this sorta thing all day. for now i am happy with the on boost response of the car, it is just pushing constantly when you reach boost.

well i had my car clocked with the system that they use when a drag race is held, and i clocked in at 128MPH, they are using some sort of laser detector, just like the cops use when they monitor your speed. and i do have camgears, i got them with the poncams (came as a set). but to have my car put on a dyno ill have to make a trip to french guyana, there they have one, as two cars that race over here got dynoes and tuned over there. will make that trip at the end of the year when i have some free time. as for the money that i have to throw around, i work very hard for evry penny of it. its just like people that collect postage stamps, ie cost a lot of money, but they have plesure in it. oh yea gary i have the 0.81 housing

what u are saying is true, run smaller turbs and loose the lag. but there are ways to spool this turb. just need to docter them out. but once 450kw gets to ya, the only way is up.

unfortunatly there arnt any dyno's. and what i was wondering now, if one of you guys could help me out with a RB 30 conversion. my T04Z hits the full boost around the 5200 because i dont have much more displacement thaen stock. i use stock size ronds, stock cranck, the only thing that is oversize is the piston. but taking away rotational mass, is sounding interesting too. where can i buy a full setup RB26/30 with forged pistons, rods, the works, and i dont want to be fussing around another engine, i jsut want it built and sent over, im getting tired of my car. but when i get on boost and the turb built op inertia, it is fkin quik to respool. when my friends and i go out and we come back to late night empy streets, i drift nearly evry traffic light stop, drift while cornering. This car is my dream car with a dream setup, the only thing that bothers me is the lag down low, other then that, i love it when people move further on the sidewalk when they hear a skyline with atmo wastegate & screamer shoot by at 10k rpm, its just heavy traffic that bothers me. and oh yea beer baron, i think ill take your advice with playing around with the camgears, got them with the cams but i put them on the 0 position.

what about if i run the VCAM on my current setup, with the poncams. will it help my off boost response?. and i want to be ready for the upcoming drag race over here. some of my friends bluffed me last time when i brought my car to the race and dindt participate. but ill have a little surprise ready for them when i show up in december. i do have a sweet rev range i get till 10k with a 10200 revlimit. or ill buy a set of big cams that only give me power in the top of the table and after the race ill swap my poncams back in.

hi there, im getting a bit tired waiting on boost in my car, i hit full boost at about 5200, current mods are HKS T04Z, ported & polished head, 1mm oversize valves, HKS valve guides, tomei valvesprings, jun retainers, etc (ie a very very expensive head, ticked off a lot of cash to send it away to be build). the cams that i am running now are the tomei poncams 260 duration and a 9.15mm lift (if im not mistaking). and i am runnign close to 600awHP (450awkw) (dont have a dyno, to get the correct figure). i am getting tired driving my car in traffic, off boost the car is bullshit, and when it does hit it is the devil himself. what i was wondering if i should step up to bigger cams like the HKS ProL with 280 deg and a 10mm lift (or so i think), or should i go even more radical like the Tomei Procams with different duration for intake and exhaust, such as 280deg@ 11.5 mm lift IN and 290deg@ 11.5 lift EX. i allready have a camgear for both in and ex. and oh yea before i forget to ask, i have been doing some research and i have come across the HKS V-CAM system, like the VVT on the S2 RB25. i would like to what your opinion is about this system on the RB26. Might just try it, from a theoretical point of view, it looks interesting. but then again i am new to my RB26.

i changed my clutch, and put in thje OS GIKEN crossmission gearset when i had the engien pulled out, so i pulled the GB out to. DAMN, i dont want to do that ever again. at the job i have acces to a 2pole hoist, but at the time i was going to put the engine in we had a 12cyl, 11.3l haulpack engine hoisted on it, because the chain hoist couldnt lift the engine. so we did the job on the floor with 4 jack stands, that is putting the box in, and the engine. and i am not the smallest person i am 6ft 7in. the GTR box is fckin heavy, lifting with 2 persons we were able to put in in position, bolting it on was easy, use airtools

so what you guys are saying is that i would need a DIS 4 and a DIS 2 ignition system?? and separate my amplifier from my coilpack loom and splice the MSD in between them. that would bring with it that both units need to be configured on the same settings. and how would this ignition thing work with a PFC (what i am running in my car). and is it possible to configure a PFC for big nitorus use (ie creating a separate map for nitrous usage), if this is so, i could eliminate the use of a separate ignition system. is want to shot about a 150HP shot of nitrous into my engine. (will be deliverd by a Nitrous Xpress direct port system. i would be using it for my actual run, but i see it as a bit of insurance, you know when you begin to dee the other guy in you rear view at the strip, you always can count on that little button. that why i would need some sort of a high speed retard for the big shot of nitrous.

this is sonthing i wanted to post up a while ago. i am also interested in this, for runnign a nitrous system, the DIS is what i was told to use by a friend of mine. Is there a DIS 6 available??. i want to use a big shot nitrous sytem on my car, and after doing some reading about the DIS sytem, it featured a nitrous retard. also is it true what i hear about when sitting at the starting lane of the dragstrip, you can use a ignition retard to spool the turbo earlier and launch at full boost???. i heard al of this and want to be sure of it. and also after doing some more reading, thats why i am asking if the DIS 6 exists, i read that the DIS 4 is built to cope with 6cyl engines utilizing a 3 coil setup (hence they are running waste spark) or 8 cyl engines running a 4 coil setup. i dont see how a skyline would fit into this equation. please all you sky guru's out there shed some light

well i have tried the HKS SSQV setup, but the car bacfires like crazy. as i posted a while ago, i managed to melt a car lens of a patrol car, when i floored the throtlle to get out of his sight. Got fined pretty bad. after that i threw away my atmo system, put the stockers back on, and voila no more backfires. and the whole stalling issue, dindt notice any of it though? and yes as mentioned before, the skyline is the first car thjat i have heard of, that has stalling issues with a atmo BOV. i know i dindt

dude it all comes down to how you drive your car. i blew my gearbox on stock power, went engine braking and masive 8K launches. blew the gearset to smiths. i now use the OS giken cross mission gearset, gets me by, stands up against 600hp lauches, dont abuse it so often, just when iget my moment, i give a little show. but al long as you dont abuse the stocker, it could last you fair while

dude im having a super hard time to belive it. Well since there is only one 34 in my country which is currently sitting at a car dealer. i have absolutly no experience with getrags. I just assume that for a manual tranny use MTF and for a auto ATF. i have a 33 so i use the redline.

The manifold i ude on my own car come from the HKS kansai tuning service. After doing some googleing about them i cam up with some results. Kansai serivice is a devision of HKS that makes custom parts that are vehicle specific. the make the extractors (exh manifold) for the RB26 with a T4 flange and a 50mm ext gate setup. when i bought my T04Z kit from HKS ( a friend who is a importer of japanese cars in my country sourced all the bits and pieces that id be needing for the turbo on one of his regular buisnes trips to japan) he got evrything an the kansai shop. that is what i know of my exhaust manifolds, the manifold is very similar (if not the same) then the one on the sticky tread about cruiseliner who combined a JUN 2.7l with a T04Z, it is stickied in the forced induction preformance guide. have a look.

well i have a friend with a GTR 33 who has them, but damn dude idd get that if i was you. that gearset is f**ked up good, the consitant harsh engagements that you can make with it. he has about the same power that i have but the way his car moves with that gearbox, damn

True that beer baron true that. experienced it on my own when i got the 33. you know hos things go, your 24 and buy your own 33 and get one of the worlds tuning monsters, begin doing some street racing, launch big at the traffic lights, and brake lika slipping duck with the engine and then you hear that awefull noise coming from the gearbox.

dude i dont know who told you that you need to fill your gearbox up with ATF. and this sounds like a synchronizer prob, if im not mistaking. get your transmission fludhed, and put in redline lightweight shockproof. Since i put in my OS cross mission gearset i have been using it, i find it the best oil for the manual transmission, i even use the stuff in my toyota lancruiser. dude get another mechanic, why would someone put ATF into a manual gearbox, cant understand why

HKS kansai sevice extractors, use them on my own car, came with my T04Z kit. havent cracked or shown any signs of wear visible to the eye. thats my advice

Pauter's all the way, tad expensive, but sturdy ass hell. before assembling my engine i had them X rayed for micro cracing and machine quality, and the X ray dude was so surpised that he coulndt belive it that these would go in a car engine.

MOTHERS polishing kit all the way

well i can tell you dude, for my job as amechanical engineer and working for the ALCOA (in my country, i do the mechanical work on big excavators, haulpacks etc), our job required a weldin g couse and certification. preparation is 90% of the job. When we weld we weld well into the night and we weld in 40m deep bauxite mines. get a course, itll help heaps. when i started working i didnt know how a welder looked like.

why go for a MAP sensores ECU, as explained in countless topics before, you will losse tuning points with a MAP sensor. Why not go the twin Z32 AFM route, they will handle the 500 HP that you are aiming for easily. i dont know of the EMS but the Power FC satisfies my hunger for power at the moment

well impusing nealry 600rwHp out of a 0.81 T04Z. hitting full boost at about 5200rpm, but i rev my car till 9800. but believe me youd be suprised how the T04Z pjust nails you into the seat. are the HKS kits so expensive over there, i got mine directly from japan with manifold and a wastegate for $6500 in my hands, but then again you guys have to deal with all sorts of taxes. i bribed some friends of mine over at customs, got it cleared for no cost at all.

This thing is a load of horse shit. do you hava any idea of how fast the air travels trough the pinping, the only reason the intercooler has so much effect on the temprature of the air charge is beacase it effectively increases the surface area of the charge. instead of using this sort of horse shit spacer youd be better off wrapping the piping from the intercooler to the plenum with the stuff they wrap house hold airconditioner pipes (insulates the piping ie prevents heat from the engine heatin up your cooled charge. even if you dont do that the velocity of the air through the pipes is way to high to pick up heat effectivly.