nsanity

I just spent ~2100 on the stereo, the head unit is a middle-ish range JVC KD-G725 unit. I'm quite attached to the USB input to be honest, if i can get the noise filtered properly, i will do magical star jumps.

anywhere in canberra sell these magical RB74 pads?

Apparently Bendix Ultimates aren't that crash hot, so i'm after Quality Pads for Street Use, where to buy em, and what i should look at brand/model wise? advice fellas?

thats what it feels like to me, just wondering if anyone else with bosch pumps has noticed similar behaviour.

What would your suggestion be to rectifiy this? I only have the Ground loop Isolator on the Front/Rear Channels atm, the Sub is unfiltered.

rs73, The list you have on the 1st post says i'm down for only fronts. I'm after fronts and rears if possible. I'll check the spreadsheet now.

I have a Bosch 040 (or 044 - unsure) fuel pump in my car. Unlike my friends with stock GTST or GTT pumps, my car doesn't necessarily start first go every time. This is under varied conditions (be it cold, warm, after a thrash, there is no discernable pattern). I'm not overly fussed about it, the explanation given to me by the previous owner was that the Bosch pumps have a different pickup that isn't the same as the stock part. The car always starts 2nd or 3rd go (if not the first) - is this something i should get looked at?

Give Nick a call (Belconnen area, does work for JB HiFi) 0403 270 951. He did my stereo in my Dark Blue R33 last week, quality work and he knows his stuff when it comes to alarms. I mentioned the topic to him, he suggested that for the Skylines, you'd want a Mongoose M80 something, roughly ~600 installed.

~200 rwkw for a < 20 year old is scary. Unless you grew up karting or something...

Saw a Black R32, could have been a GTR, didn't get close enough to it, on the way to Belconnen this morning from Civic. Had a bit of get up and go (and i had a truck in front of me... no room to get a better look.)

^^ This is gold. I got my first speeding ticket through the camera coming down through kurrajong on the bells line of road, just when they put the camera up (about 2 weeks later anywho). I opened the letter and laughed, rang the old man said "hey i got a speeding ticket", he mentioned something about going too fast and whatnot, then i mentioned "you have an envelope with exactly the same markings etc on it". He managed to get done on the same day, just behind me (we were doing a convoy type thing to sydney).

These just a straight swap on a R33 GTST? (the front grooved dimpled's i'm talking?) If so, put me down for a set of fronts and rears One sec i'll get the number, 7693, 908 i believe. When is this closing?

i'm at 194rwkw with every mod bar the turbo and AFM. So i may get a bit or i may not? I currently have a blitz pod and Custom CAI, anything else i should possibly look at whilst i'm doing it

i have a bosch 040 (or 044 not sure). Don't get me wrong, its fast, very fast and very smooth too. I have the option to buy a Z32 for a reasonable price, and am wondering if i should, i'm planning on having the car retuned shortly (curse this warmer weather) - might as well do it at the same time.

So i visited Zebbie and Vader today. Zebbie thinks that my car "lacks punch" 4.5k rpm onwards. According to the powerfc, duty cycles aren't going past 70.9% (several hills and very very aggressive accelerations to test). The car feels like its just plateauing. Thommo (the guy i bought the car from) mentioned it was tuned by ICE down in Melbourne (who i'm told have a good rep), would the car benefit from a Z32 or similar (peak readings were roughly 6.8k rpm, 0.992 bar boost (capped at 0.8 apparently), 70.9% duty cycle) at this stage? I have the option to purchase one, and i'm getting the car once overed by the guys up here in Canberra. Or do i really need to look at a better turbo? SydneyKid was mentioning you get boost cut from the stock AFM around the 9 - 10 psi mark, which could explain the flatness around the 4.5k - 7k mark under full throttle maybe. If its not going to be a substantial upgrade (10 - 15rwkw), i will wait till i do the turbo as well, but if its worth doing now, i'll get it done. Also, on a sidenote - my injectors are upgraded ones it would seem?

as above. Anyone?

So i visited Zebbie and Vader today. Zebbie thinks that my car "lacks punch" 4.5k rpm onwards. According to the powerfc, duty cycles aren't going past 70.9% (several hills and very very aggressive accelerations to test). The car feels like its just plateauing. Thommo (the guy i bought the car from) mentioned it was tuned by ICE down in Melbourne (who i'm told have a good rep), would the car benefit from a Z32 or similar (peak readings were roughly 6.8k rpm, 0.992 bar boost (capped at 0.8 apparently), 70.9% duty cycle) at this stage? I have the option to purchase one, and i'm getting the car once overed by the guys up here in Canberra. Or do i really need to look at a better turbo? SydneyKid was mentioning you get boost cut from the stock AFM around the 9 - 10 psi mark, which could explain the flatness around the 4.5k - 7k mark under full throttle maybe. If its not going to be a substantial upgrade (10 - 15rwkw), i will wait till i do the turbo as well, but if its worth doing now, i'll get it done. Also, on a sidenote - my injectors are upgraded ones it would seem?

Louder is bad (infact if you can here it at full noise, you're probably about to have a very large dent in your wallet). Frequency wont really change much as its either there or its not, its a constant thing (fuel is constantly going into your combustion chambers). It will do it worst under maximum load - 4th gear up a big hill people say is the worst for skylines (so i've heard)... Reality is, get your car tuned (assuming you have a Aftermarket ECU) by a professional on a dyno, and they will reduce it as much as possible.

Hey, Just wondering if i've had my chain pulled here. I recently just put a nice Stereo in my R33 Skyline, Unfortunately there is noise coming through the speakers. I corrected this through a Ground Loop Isolater (Headunit -> Isolator -> Amp via RCA). Whilst looking for one, i was advised by a car audio place that my amp should already clean this up, however the guy who did the install (and is held in reasonable regard around here according to a SAU ACT member) mentioned that it was a particular problem with R33's and BA Falcons. Who is telling the truth? should my Cadence FX500 5 channel amp filter it out? or are R33's a noisy bugger and require more? Is there a better (and cleaner sounding) solution than the $15 part i bought from AutoBarn? Cheers, Geoff

exactly my concerns cheers for that

Honestly, these days, if i was getting an engine rebuilt i'd get it run in as well (half a day on a dyno i think, can't quite remember) - i know if you've gone and had the driveline done as well its not going to help you, but getting everything bedded in and whatnot before you throw it in a car. Now for my question. Pre-Dickson checkup on my R33 GTST. Belconnen would be nice (as it seems i'm posted out here alot), but really anywhere will do if they are trustworthy. I want the lot looked at, suspension, engine, ancilliaries etc.

Having lived in Sydney, and seen some of the dodgier parts of it, i can't think of anywhere here in Canberra that even remotely comes close. Nothing here is on a scale that could really begin to compete with that kind of thing (drugs, mob/mafia/gangs, etc), Canberra simply isn't a "big" enough or well connected enough place (we don't have docks for one...). Not to say that shit can't happen, its just unless you provoke, i doubt much is going to go wrong in that direction.

So i'd still be left with a nice fair of quality all-round turbo's with the Z32 and standard piping installed? If there is a killer all round turbo that suits the q45, i'd probably look at that. I want something that is as responsive as it can be, but still packs a bunch when you put the hammer down.

I just purchased my R33 GTST last week, and i've noticed that the HICAS llight comes on everynow and then. After reading here, it seems that if that light goes on, then there is problems. However i don't notice any real change in the rear end's stability. I have an aftermarket steering wheel on it, so referring to the FAQ's it means it wont work properly anyway, but should i get a lock kit (as GTRGeoff provides) and simply forget about the bloody thing?

my point is i think the guy who got "jacked" and the guy doing the jacking already had a pre-existing disagreement in some shape or form. I don't think we're quite at the US levels where we all need to carry glocks in our drivers side doors yet...