daisu

Add onto radiators please: The radiator for the A31 20DET isn't same as R32 20DET, though they are direct swap (Something like A31 uses single core and R32 is twin core??). CA S13 also fits, but that would be a downgrade, might get you out of a tight spot if you are stuck on the side of the highway or something? R33 GTST rad+shroud (bigger than R32) fits into A31 but will not fit into S13 (fouls on bonnet). Have to make new top brackets for R33 rad. EDIT - Thanks

As has been suggested before, bleed nipples need to be at the top of the calliper. They will work with the standard master cylinder, but you will loose alot of pedal travel (feels similar to air in the lines). Feels alot better if you upgrade to R32 master cylinder. If you use the R32 banjo bolts and flexible hoses with your R32 callipers, you can connect them to the S13/A31 solid line where it enters the wheel arch, which means no modifications to fittings etc. Maltech make ADR approved braided lines (they also do cheaper rubber lines), they are very professional. I find it quicker and easier to bleed my brakes by myself. I've bled them the proper way with 2 people before, and it doesn't seem to make a difference. I don't use a fancy kit, just some clear rubber hose and a small clear container.

S13 rear cradle is different to A31, the A31 uses a drum-in-disc handbrake (like the skylines). You are better off using an R32 rear cradle for the drum handrake and bigger brakes than both the A31 and S13. I have an S13 cradle in my cefiro, I need to get custom handbrake cables made for it. According to this website http://www.alljapanesecars.com the GTST and the GTS25 had hicas, the GTS and GTS4 didn't have hicas. Though thats nothing a lock bar won't fix. I recently removed hicas (removed everything related to it like you want to do). As for removing the lines, it's covered in salads guide. As for looping the pump hicas-outlet to the resevoir hicas-return, I made my own little guide. Remove everything that was related to the hicas, the only lines left should be the supply from the pump to the front rack, and the return from the front rack to the resevoir. Look at your pile of discarded hoses and fittings. Find the banjo-bolt fitting that connects to the hicas-outlet of the pump. There is a hose clamp connecting this banjo-bolt fitting to a rubber hose. Using another hose clamp, connect the other end of the rubber hose to the resevoirs hicas-return. Make sure the hose is suitably long enough so as not to get in the way of your turbo intake pipe. So the hicas side of the pump goes directly to the hicas inlet on the resevoir. Exactly the same as the directions for R32, except there is no power steering cooler on the A31, though if you bought an R32 halfcut, you could fit the cooler using some longer rubber hoses and a couple more hose clamps. The only thing further you could do would be to replace the pump and resevoir with non hicas units. Leeroy_pat_12 - Can you please explain about removing the internals of the rear stage of the pump? -Luke

Going on a bit of a tangent here, even though the buttons function has already been explained... Rear-window switches use a rectangle for the little picture on the button. Front windscreen window uses the curvy rectangle picture. So that straight away tells you it is related to the front windscreen and not the rear window.

D1nz forums have various nissan ecu pinnouts, -Luke

No passenger vent, no center vent, sold the drivers side vent (the panel under the dashboard with the fuse box lid). Passenger kick panel (where the factory flare sits) is sold.

dead32 - Entire glovebox for $15 plus $17 for postage (from 4178). Condition is okay, but there are a couple scratches on the front of the lid. kingy06 - PM replied jwah - I don't have the cluster surround sorry, wasn't in the halfcut OSH33N - Only vents I have are the 2 windscreen demister vents, and the 2 side window demister vents. $5? The passenger kick panel is also spoken for now, but if it falls through I'll let you know. You can call/SMS me on 0432 848 627 or PM me Cheers, Luke

Hey, I'm looking for an R32 manual radiator, or an R33 Manual radiator as I've been told these fit in laurel/cefiro. I'm in brisbane, but I will pay for postage if you have a good priced radiator. Cheers, Luke

Out of my R32 halfcut, Dash board, panel that goes under the instrument cluster (has the round air vent in it, interior fuse box lid), glove box, passenger kick panel, steering column surround, other random interior panels, lock barrel and original key. $40 for all of it. I will sell seperate parts if you want them. Click for large image Located in Brisbane, willing to post at buyers expense. Cheers, Luke

You have PM

I have an R32 steering rack out of a late model halfcut. It is a non-hicas model. Chasing $150, located in brisbane. Please PM for phone number Cheers, Luke

From my R32 manual half cut, I have the instrument cluster showing 131xxxkms. Looking for about $80. Speed chime still located on rear, or I can remove it if you prefer. Click for full size Located in Brisbane, will post at buyers expense. Cheers, Luke

I need the rubber boot that goes around the gearshift lever, bolts into the floor pan. For an A31 cefiro manual, but no doubt the R32 and S13 units are the same. Cheers, Luke

Hey people, As you probably all know by now (i think i say it everytime i start a thread) I'm midway through engine and gearbox conversion. I've noticed my gearbox crossmember (R32 Manual) doesn't line up too well with the holes on the underside of the car. According the the D1NZ forum this topic On cefiro conversions (gearbox, engine and 5stud is all covered), they say that the skyline crossmember doesn't fit quite right and you can either modify it (drill 2 extra holes), or use an S13/14 manual crossmember. But, a mate of mine is on the understanding that R32 and S13 manual crossmembers are exactly the same and that he's mixed and matched them in plenty of conversions. Can I get some feedback as to what method people have used when doing manual conversions on their cefiro? Cheers, Luke

Sorry Richo, didn't really want to post it. SOLD!

Getting braided line through maltech, O2 sensor through rso84 (if i can get in contact with him) but I still need this bracket that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master. This is a picture of the bracket that connects the brake pedal to the brake master. The bracket I'm after is identical in shape, but uses a smaller thread for the nuts. Cheers, luke

I have for sale an RB20DET aircon compressor off a late model R32. Also located in brisbane, Link to the for sale topic, with pictures Let me know if you are interested.

Turns out my CAS plug wasn't connected properly. When I pulled it off the engine to test if the injectors were firing I plugged it in properly, and then when I put it back on the engine, I didn't put the plug in properly again. So now I have spark, and the injectors were firing, so tomorrow when I get some fuel lines I'll beable to fire her up. Fingers crossed. Thanks

32 bar is being picked up tonight. Autech bar, RSO84 has a deal regarding trading of parts Stock front bar, posting to Toffy. If any of these sales fall through then I'll let you know backdog - 32 bar is in good physical condition, has not been chopped for intercooler, plastic honeycomb shape grills are still in the bottom. It has scuff and scratch marks on it, they aren't deep but will need a good cut and polish. EDIT - 32 Bar is sold!

Well it could be coilpacks and plugs, but I wouldn't expect all 6 not to work. I'd hear some stuttering if any of them were working. Apparently RB20 and 25 have the same ECU pinout, I'm looking at an engine wiring diagram here http://www.gweeds.net/carpage2/rb25diagram.jpg If you look down the very bottom, and a little to the right of where the coils are drawn, you will see "Test Point (No1 Spark)" Looks like it's connected after the ignitor, but before the coils. Should give me more of an idea as to where the problem lies. Has anyone done a test on this point? Should I test with a light bulb or something? Hopefully I'll find something tomorrow/

Hello people, This is the situation. A31, originally auto RB20E, now RB20DET manual from an R32 Just got the wiring loom back from being modified, plugged it into the engine bay, and to the ecu, and two plugs under the dash. There is one plug left from under the dash, but the loom didn't have a plug to connect to it... not sure if it is auto related or what not. The car wouldn't crank at first, had to bridge two wires that plug into the fuse box (inhibitor or something?). Now it is cranking but it's not firing. So I pulled the coilpack cover off, pulled out a coil and plug and held it against the engine while trying to start the car, no spark happening on the spark plug. So I put my ignitor on my mates R32, his car starts and runs fine with my ignitor. Swapped the ECU over too, no problems there. I took the Crank Angle Sensor off and spun it by hand with the ignition on, can hear the injectors firing. AFM was plugged in, but it should start up in limp mode without it anyways. Also, I can't remove the key from the ignition barrell, I'm assuming this is related to the lack of my auto gearbox. Can the solenoid be easily removed from the barrell? I also have no reverse lights, and the gear selection on the instrument cluster shows nothing. Only thing I can think of is I need the gear selector switch off my auto box? Or is that just there for the inhibitor (which I've already bridged out). Or that there is some more auto related wiring that needs to be modified? As always, any help greatly appreciated Cheers, luke

rso - 40 if you come pick it up toffy - whats your location? I'll post if you pay postage. Can you recommend a service that sends such large packages?

Hey people. I'm midway through an engine and manual conversion on my cefiro. I'm missing the line that connects my clutch slave to clutch master. I'm not sure if R32 part will fit, or if I need specifically manual cefiro part. Or would you recommend getting a braided hose made up? Also missing the little U-shaped bracket that connects the clutch pedal to the rod on the master cylinder. I have the little rod and split pin, but missing that U shaped bracket. Also missing an R32, RB20DET exhaust O2 sensor. I'm in Brisbane but I won't mind driving a bit to collect parts. These parts are relatively small so I won't mind paying for postage if need be. If anyone could help me out here, I'd greatly appreciate it. Cheers, Luke

God damn I wish I knew that a few weeks ago, I just paid $350 to have my loom modified by an auto electrician

I have, 1 R32 Mspec front bar, coloured black. It has a few scratches but nothing a rub back and layer of paint wouldn't fix. Price is $80. Location is Brisbane. I don't think posting is a good idea. Cheers, Luke