daisu

Factory rotors are same diameter and thickness as S14, and I'm pretty sure Z32 are also the same.

Hey people, found this while I was trawling for other parts, the guy is selling his factory R33 GTST radiator for $70. It's nothing special, but considering the price it think it's worthwhile, especially if you are using factory cefiro RB20DET radiator (they are single core compared to the R32 RB20DET radiator). All you need to make this fit is to cut the bottom rubber mounts in half, use R33 fan shroud, and make some custom top brackets (not hard). Anyways, here is the link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=182736 -Luke

The rear hub uprights (aka hub carrier... the solid cast iron thing which the control/toe arms bolt to) are identical to S13 (and I would assume R32). You may be thinking what use would that have, well I had enough trouble finding a pair of rear cefiro hubs complete with calipers/discs/handbrake assembly then it turns out that the upright was bent, so then I had to try sourcing an individual cefiro rear left hub upright. This also means it is possible to do skyline rear brake upgrade to S13 and stay 4 stud (for those people who prefer to remain 4 stud).

Plus R33 has digital gearbox speedo sensor? As opposed to the R32/A31 using cable driver speedo sensor?

I usually stand besides the car, facing the same direction as the lights, use the palm of my hand to hit the indicator section forward that usually pops it out.

Nah sorry, was hoping you were after tan so that on the chance you found a black one we could swap. Can't help you on hte footrest though

Only problem with messing around trial and error with the digital units, is you can damage the circuitry, then you don't know if the wiring it incorrect or not. This happens on the S13s when people plug the digital unit into their unmodified analogue looms, it lights up, i'm not sure if you get fan control or not, but it also permanently damages one of the functions like fresh/recirc or something. I can't be stuffed looking at the S13 guide right now. I think I'll try on my own loom first, then when I'm sure I know what I'm doing I'll let you know how to do it. Either that or softy will do it

Are you by chance looking for tan colour?

I'm pretty sure it would be that white box on the back of the cluster which the cable goes into. Same thing on R32 skylines

Just thought I'd also add that I just had the same problem, in case it helps the mods with bug tracking or something.... either way it started today, fixed by revheads instructions. -thanks

Yeah, the cluster would have speed sensor built into it because when my speedo cable broke, I lost 105km/hr speed chime and auto door lock functions. Not sure which wire on the cluster runs to the ECU though, it may be written on the back of the cluster on the circuit board plastic sheet thingy.

Well I can't criticise that, because i have an S13 non hicas cradle, and only just now putting cefiro hubs in.

Is the page blurry or is it the photo? I can make out most of the writing, but 18, 19, 20 are a bit fuzzy, looks like CN2-13, CN2-8 and CN2-7 respectively. Please confirm? The jap symbols next to 8 of the pins I'm assuming means not used (or nothing connected). Though the symbols next to pin 1 I could hazard a guess it means something like wire to constant 12V or something. Only other thing is you have to rewire a couple other points on the S13 to make it work, I'm could only assume something similar would have to happen in the cefiro.

You need a hicas lock bar incase you didn't realise Mrlag. It's a lot of effort to remove the hicas pump and replace it with a non hicas unit, and everyone here would recommend using it to have a power steering cooler. And besides the extra line you'd have going from the pump to the reservoir, you can still remove everything else. But if you want to get rid of it fair enough. I'm not entirely sure, but it sounds familiar the idea of using a CA pump on an RB bracket. Can't hurt to try. As for the reservoir, not really sure at all. I'm sure you'd be able to make it bolt on. There is no point in changing the steering rack over to a non hicas unit, the only difference is the hicas front rack has a connection block on it to join the hicas lines to each other. You don't need to plug the holes on the connection block as it is completely separate to the front system. If you were going to go that far you might as well find a non hicas rear cradle as opposed to fitting a hicas lock bar.

Damn I wish I knew jap speak, I'd be on that site and asking the guy to tell me the pin out of that loom he has.

That would work a lot better than the factory R32 power steering cooler, and probably have more capacity.

This topic has been covered before, basically after you remove everything hicas related you are left with a pump that has an extra outlet and a fluid reservoir that has an extra inlet. Use a bit of low pressure line to connect the two and you are finished. I would recommend using the opportunity to install a p/s fluid cooler from an R32 (it's just a piece of metal line that sits in front of the radiator). Buy a bit more low pressure hose and a couple clamps and connect it between your spare inlet/outlet on the pump/reservoir.

Well thats the way I'll be heading then, I've rewired an analogue sub loom to suit a digital controller in an S13 before, so it shouldn't be that hard.

Found a picture of a laurel with center console cut to fit manual lever, looks like they are using an S13 lever though you get the idea.

Do it, then post up the wiring diagram of your loom so we can copy

I think the ABS diff has a longer housing to fit the ABS sensor? Not sure though. From what I see everyone uses R200 LSD. Make sure you get one with halfshafts to suit your driveshafts, skylines use 5*1 bolt pattern as opposed to S13/A31 using 3*2 bolts.

I've considered attempting this with either S13 or R32 digital units, but I just don't have the time at the moment, and a few other more important issues on my car have priority (suspension/brakes etc). I'd be keen to see the article, even if just for the pinout diagrams

More importantly, check out girls of 7tune http://www.7tune.com/?cat=6 :> But on topic, that cefiro is burning hot, I want my rear arches flared that much.

The manual console has space for two switches on it, normally one would be for the aerial and the other would be blanked off. Mine was missing the blank, so I filled it with the power/hold switch from when I had the auto. I tried hacking mine to make it fit, you have to cut a fair bit. You can do it, but it's not very stylish.

the number refers to the size of the crown wheel (R200 crownwheel is 200mm in diameter) Its like when you hear people talk about 9" diff in their ford/holden etc. So from the outside the R180 housing looks smaller.