daisu

Surely you could just buy one from on the forums here and have it posted. The problem with doing a DIY setup is that its not just a matter of a couple switches and sliders, the climate control system uses a fair bit of electronics to control it. Unless there was an option for R33 that had a non-climate control version (like how some S13's don't have climate control, and I don't mean just the digital climate control, I mean it uses a cable/slider to move the heater flap like regular AC in most cars).

Looks mint, and judging by the details listed you shouldn't have any troubles with maintenance. In reply to 1) I drive my ceff around everywhere, only reason it couldn't be a daily is if you had bullshit suspension or engine work. 2) Not sure on tank size but that's not really relevant, I'm getting about 10.5litres/100km, and I don't baby the car everywhere. Also running 13psi boost. 3) Would depend where you live, but like most imports you are going to have more problems if you are drawing attention to yourself with obscenely loud BOV etc and if you are driving like an idiot. 4) Drive train/suspension, basically it's a non-turbo R32 rear end, and S13 front end. Couple little differences like tailshaft is longer (due to longer wheelbase) castor rod brackets are A31/C33 specific. It's already had a 5 stud conversion, so it would now have R32 turbo rear end, and S14 hubs up front. 5) The window controls can stuff up, if yours still work then it's simply a matter of spray it with some contact cleaner and seal it up using something like hot glue, otherwise it will get corrosion from exposure to moisture in the door shell. Otherwise it should be reliable. Autech kits are hard to come by, so don't smash it up lol.

I paid something like $80 to get my shoes rebonded, but I can't really compare to anything as I'm still having issues. The mounting point on the underside of the floor pan that the handbrake cable bolts to... the stud that sticks out of that mounting point has snapped off, so at the moment the cable is zip-tied in place and as you can imagine there is a bit of stretch there now. I need to do something like drill the original stud out and bolt the cable down from the other side. That and since I'm running redrilled rotors (r33GTST) on the rear, the hole on the rotor hat for accessing the handbrake adjustment is now being blocked by the face of the hub, so I can't properly adjust it anyways. So I need to pull the rotors off and drill another hole in each of them. I've had this car going for over a year now and still haven't gotten the handbrake to work properly yet lol.

Basically, there is no sub loom in a cefiro. But the wiring in the cefiro is equivalent of having an S13 with analog subloom plugged in. All it does is rearrange the wiring (exactly the same as repinning the plugs), but is alot easier to install compared to rearranging 32+wires.

Have you got a manual gear lever surround/boot in grey? If so I will buy it.

I was soo shocked the first time I saw an RB20E under the hood of an R33 haha. Back on topic, perhaps buy an R32 shell, and drop in an RB25DE from an R33? Sure there'd be a few headaches but it'd be better than the RB20DE and possibly cheaper?

What is your location? Tokage Racing Imports in Brisbane does good looking wheels in 4 stud with good offset/width and good prices. These are 17*9 +20 on my cefiro, paid $1300 for a set of 4 brand new.

I just scored a passenger side door complete to replace my dented door, which was working complete. If you haven't already organised a solution I could strip my door for parts and post them to you? PM me if you are interested.

Well guys, after about 6months of not doing this, I finally got off my arse and did it, and it works!! Here is the link to the original thread where we discussed options and there are a few more links in there to some usefull sources. Thanks to a few people for helping with wiring diagrams and what not. First thing I did was purchase a digital unit and sub loom, then if you are familiar with the conversion in S13 all you have to do is unplug the analogue subloom and replace it with the digital subloom. But since digital control was not an option in the A31/C33 there is no subloom to unplug, it's hardwired into the body loom. So I did a bit of experimenting. I bought an analogue control unit and subloom from an S13 and plugged the S13 analogue unit into the ceffy and it worked straight away (easy replacement if your cefiro analogue unit stuffs up). So I came to the conclusion that the A31 wiring is identical to the S13 wiring when the analogue subloom is used. So the next logical step was to repin the analogue loom using the S13 guide, but if you have ever removed your control unit, you will notice that there is next to no slack in the loom and there is no space to get your hands in there unless you remove the dashboard. Not keen. So I made a new loom (I'll call it a hybrid loom because I can't think of anything else...shutup). It connects to the 3 plugs from the analogue loom and has 2 plugs on the end to connect to a digital unit. There is only 1 problem now.. I couldn't find any plugs that would fit in the digital unit so I had to butcher a subloom to use the 2 black plugs, and I couldn't find any sockets that would suit the original plugs, so I soldered some PCB header pins onto a PCB experimenters board. This is how it ended up looking In the first picture you can see the 2 black plugs from the analogue loom plug onto those pins, and the white plug fits in that white socket. In the 2nd picture you can see my awesome soldering skills and the two plugs that fit into the digital unit. Functionally it is completely fine, and the board doesn't need to be that big I just haven't been bothered cutting it down, but it looks like dogs balls and the board wouldn't need to be there if I had a proper socket thing. If you want to make your own conversion loom I can supply pinnout details. Thanks, Luke

I got my factory one in pearl white here, if you are in Brisbane?

Mate, I have a spare R32 ignitor module, I can't remember if the cefiro ignitor uses the same plugs though.

Hell yeah, I'd swap my ceff for a laurel any day.

Yeah just pull it out and replace the hicas rack with a lock bar hhaha But seriously, as long as you can make the wiring fit, then there is no reason you can't relocate it.

If you have ABS, use an R32GTST ABS brake master (has 2 outlets on the brake master). If you don't have ABS, use an R32GTST non ABS brake master (has 3 outlets). Lines straight up with your original brake lines.

Hahahh, the amount of times I've mistaken other cars for cefiros. I feel sooo ashamed when I realise it is not, everything from camry's to magna's ahahh. Then I remember the good thing about having a car that looks like a camry/magna at first glance is you don't attract the wrong kind of attention like the skylines/S-series do.

This was a few months ago, I think he's running hydro setup now, or at least he's solved the problem.

Lol Not getting confused, probably the way I worded it. I was saying I could either monitor the AFM to see if I'm reaching it's limits, Or I could monitor the fuel rail pressure to see if its fuel surge. Basically just what you explained. I wasn't saying that measuring the AFM would tell me if I was getting fuel surge, I was more getting at the point that unless I used a tee piece and mounted a gauge outside the bonnet I'd need some sort of electronic gauge and sender suitable for this pressure range. I suppose It wouldn't be that hard to tee the fuel line and sit a gauge at the bottom of the windscreen on the passenger side(outside obviously). But now I'm think measuring the AFM voltage will be easier, safer and more accurate. Reason is, if I measure the fuel pressure and hit an ECU cut (caused by AFM limits) the engine will stop producing power momentarily, which will also drop the boost pressure. Since the FPR is also controlled by the boost pressure I would also see a drop in fuel pressure, which could be misleading. If I measure AFM voltage and it is reaching it's limits, I would see it increasing to a certain point at which the ECU would initiate a cut (close to 5V). Or if it was a fuel surge I'd see the AFM voltage holding steady then dropping slightly when the engine cuts out (hopefully it doesn't happen at close to 5V otherwise it would be a bit inconclusive). Next time on track is this Friday night, so hopefully I'll be able to find the problem then. Other thing I could do is repeat the driving style with a full tank (as opposed to a half tank). There should be no fuel surge with the full tank. So if it does cut out then I could safely assuming I've reached the AFM limits, and it's time to upgrade turbo/injectors/AFM and retune. If it doesn't cut out then I would assume it's the fuel surge and I'll get the surge tank in there. Also, going full throttle up a hill would be full load on the engine, but the engine would not be using the same amount of air unless the RPM was the same. Kind of hard to replicate something like 7krpm full throttle on the streets as 1st gear would just be wheel spin and hit limiter too fast to measure anything, and 2nd gear would be going too fast for public roads.

Yeah it hasn't cut out before, but my reasoning is that say going up a hill in 3rd at full load, the RPM would probably only be getting up to about 5krpm, whereas on the track at full load in 2nd I was probably close to the limiter, so there would have been more air flowing into the engine. I could hook a multimeter up to the AFM output and get a mate to monitor it next time I'm on track. Or are there commonly available methods of monitoring fuel pressure remotely? (like an electronic oil pressure gauge, but obviously I'd need something with a different pressure range).

Front seats?

The hicas front rack should have 2 fittings, an inlet and outlet. And should have a separate connection block bolted on near the steering column shaft. This connection block is simply a point for the rear hicas lines to join the front hicas lines and is completely separate from the front steering system. I'd recommend just removing any left over hicas stuff, you dont need to swap to a non hicas pump/reservoir, just plumb the outlet from the pump straight into the reservoir inlet.

Unbolt the CAS from the front of the engine, plug it into the loom and with the key in the on position turn the CAS by hand. You will hear the injectors firing (clicking), and if you take the spark plugs out you should be able to see them sparking too. The CAS sits on a keyed shaft (halfmoon shape) so it will only fit on one way can be a bit fiddly to get the shaft lined up but it's not too hard. You'll have to check your timing again with timing gun afterwards, might be a good idea to mark it's original position with a paint pen before removing it so you can put it on relatively close to its original position

Hey people, I went out to Qld raceway on the weekend and I noticed an occasional cut of power. I've had misfires before but this was not like a misfire, it was more like a complete stall for about half a second. It seemed to happen as I'd come around to the end of the last corner (long right hander). Also, I started the day with a full tank and didn't experience the cut in power until towards the end of the day when I had half tank, so this was making me think fuel surge. But the other thing that changed between the start and the end of the day was my driving style. At the start I was putting around the corner a bit slower in 3rd gear, but at the end of the day (when I experienced the cut) I was sliding the corner full throttle at the top of 2nd gear (not bouncing off the limiter but was high in the revs as you'd imagine sliding a corner). So the other thing I'm thinking was I may have hit a boost cut (or fuel cut)? I don't have a boost controller, and I'm pretty sure I have a standard turbo and actuator, but for some reason I'm getting 0.9Bar (over 13psi) at the inlet manifold. Should I expect some sort of boost cut at this boost level? This is on a standard RB20, standard turbo, standard ECU, walbro fuel pump, R34SMIC. I do have a completely straight through turbo back, so I would expect a few PSI more than standard, but I think 0.9bar is a bit higher than normal. If it is likely to be fuel surge then I have no problems getting a surge tank, I just don't want to fork out the money if I need to be spending it on getting a retune or something. Thanks, Luke

I'd put my name down but I just scored a 2nd hand one from Malaysia.

I'll say having the wheels cambered in to sit under the guards does look hot, but it's a bit of a waste having such a wide rim cambered up (lose alot of traction). I'd prefer to see those wheels with less camber and a bit of guard work to match.

Thats exactly what I was thinking