daisu

It's an Autech series 1 rear bumper and side skirts, and series 2 front bumper. I've seen many cefiros with autech kits but they were all fibreglass, unlike the R32skylines M-spec kit, there were that many available I don't think anyone would bother making a fibreglass copy when they can source a genuine plastic kit.

In the RB30 guide, it talks of using RB25 pistons, says that they sit lower in the bore and the block needs to be decked to compensate. Is this correct for both RB25DE and DET pistons? Apparently the DE pistons give a compression ratio around 10:1 when the block is decked. If the block was left as is, this would decrease the compression ratio somewhat closer to 9:1. Could be an alternative to aftermarket pistons? Would there be adverse effects if the piston is lowered in the bore and the block is not decked to match?

Well I'd have the block disassembled anyway to do the bearings etc What about if I just purchased aftermarket pistons and used them on the standard rods? Good idea/Bad idea?

They run underneath the car body. If you get under the car you should see the lines running along the length and going up to the top of the tank.

Yeah I think I'll have to do a few cost estimates first before I decide what I can and can't afford. At the moment I'm more interested to know if it's possible to deck the block to get 9:1 compression ratio with standard rods/pistons.

Hey guys, after doing a lot of reading I'm now seriously considering doing this conversion for my cefiro. I'm not looking for massive power, but I am keen on making power efficiently, I haven't done any definite calculations but I think 250-300rwkw would be a good figure to aim for. At first, I was intending on doing it as simple as possible, trying to keep costs down, as I said not looking for massive power. So the original plan was to buy a running RB30E and slap the R32 RB25DE head on. Cheap and simple. But I figure for a bit of extra time, money and effort, using the R33 VCT head would increase performance and efficiency. So that's the current plan. Also, in an effort to improve response/efficiency and power I'd like to run higher than the approx 8.5:1 compression ratio. This either means aftermarket pistons, or decking of the block/head. I wouldn't mind getting aftermarket pistons/rods but from what I've read the standard RB30 bottom end is more than capable of the power output I am aiming for. Is it even possible to deck the block/head to reach this compression ratio and is it cost effective when compared to aftermarket high compression pistons? If decking is not an option, will I beable to use standard rods with aftermarket pistons? What about the cost of replacement (new) standard rods? Is this an option and again is it cost effective? Also, from the RB30 PDF guide on the front page, it mentions O-ringing the block, but I can't recall it being mentioned in any of the buildups in this thread. What are your thoughts on this? Now to continue reading...

I don't have a specific power goal at the moment, just trying to gain a bit more knowledge before I start working out what I can afford and what is worth doing. After reading the RB30 conversion threads, it seems that you can get reasonable results with standard RB30E bottom end and standard RB25DE head, so the valve springs are probably fine for my needs. If I do decide later that I need more power then I will probably pull the engine down and rebuild with stronger bottom end (aftermarket rods etc) and redo the valve train to handle higher boost. I'm only about 15pages into the RB30 conversion thread (333pages) *Edit* Just read cubes post above, Still haven't decided whether I want the VCT or not, it would probably be smarter to use it since I probably won't be making enough power to render it useless. Still early stages, lots more research to do.

Well I'll probably start with standard cams and then if I feel the need for more power later I'll upgrade. So the DE springs, would they be fine for most setups, or should I get rid of them and use DET or aftermarket springs? What about the hydraulic lifters?

All of the following have the same size drive shafts (or axles) S13 (and 180sx), S14, S15, R32, R33, A31, C33. I can't comment on R34, but I suspect they would also be the same. All of them are the same size (though some may have 6 bolt pattern as opposed to 5 bolt pattern where they join to the diff), except for the GTR models. The GTR has a thicker driveshaft, and as a result a larger spline where it enters the wheel hub. You don't need to change the diff/subframe etc to use GTR driveshafts. Providing your car has 5 bolt pattern on the driveshafts, the GTR ones will bolt up to your diff. Then the only problem is the spline difference. I can't comment specifically about stageas, but I would bet my left nut it is going to be the same as the skylines/silvias in the design of the rear hubs. There are 3 parts to the hub assembly. The hub carrier (or upright), is the cast iron piece that your suspension arms and struts bolt onto. The backing plate, contains the drum style parking brake (if your car has one) and acts as a stone guard to the brake rotor The hub itself, holds the wheel studs, the bearing is contained inside the hub and the spline from the driveshaft is engaged with the hub to transfer power to the wheels. On all of the above mentioned models, the hub assembly is designed the same way, that is the hub is bolted onto the upright with 4 bolts and the backing plate is sandwiched between the two. The R33 models and the GTR's use a different method of bolting the suspension arms to the upright, which makes them incompatible unless you want to go swapping your whole rear end out. But, they still both use the same method to bolt the hub itself to the upright, which means that the GTR hub will bolt onto an upright from any of the above mentioned models.

So you're saying that standard cams with VCT is good for 300rwkw? I would've thought I'd need larger cams well before that power level.

Yeah, still weighing up options. It's hard to know when to stop, spend money on RB20, or do RB25 conversion, or build RB30 with twin cam head, build a low stroke RB25 (ie the RB24). Too many decisions. A lot of research... Either way, an RB30 build or the RB25 I'd be building with the R32 RB25DE head, due to cost and not having to mess with VCT. So regarding this head I have some more questions... From what I've read the valve springs aren't as strong as say a DET head, this will be a problem with high lift cams, high revs, and boost? Would if be worth using parts from a DET head (valve springs, lifters etc) should I stick with hydraulic lifters or go solid? There is a thread a few pages in about differences between the lifters in RB20DET and RB25DE head (both from R32). Link here

Trailer lights stuck on the headlights as indicators...? Don't know what you are smoking but all I see is factory cefiro indicators. Shitty welding around the towers is stitch welding (aka seam welding) improves structural rigidity, agreed the welding could look better but meh. I think the kit would look better if it wasn't soo low to the ground, and the actual car was lower.

yeah the 30 block is something like 38mm taller, but besides that they all have the same bore. The 25 and 26 block have the same height. Basically it's going to be pretty much an RB25DET. But I figure I might be able to save some money by starting from a cheaper R32 RB25DE. Was the VCT available on the DE engines? Is it worth having if I'm going to use aftermarket cams?

Yeah, we kind of already discussed that. That is what a true RB24 is. Modifying an RB20 block using different stoke and bore combination results in volumes between 2.1 and 2.3 litres.

I don't know because I haven't seen before, but I would have thought that the VCT differences would be in the head?

People, I'm considering an engine buildup based upon a certain block with an 86mm bore. As far as I know, the RB25 block is basically the same as the 26 block in terms of height and bore. So my question is, are there other differences like oil galleries, water jackets etc Also, interested to know if the RB25DE block was any different to the DET, as it could possibly be cheaper to purchase compared to a 25DET block/head.

That's the one

When most people say RB24, they are usually referring to a modified RB20. But even bored out to 82mm (from standard 78mm) and using RB26 crank, you only end up with 2.3litres. All of the other RB engines have a bore of 86mm, so using the 20crank you end up with 2.4litres. Then the 25, 26 and 30 engines are just larger stroked and different heads.

Whats the rear muffler look like? Can I see a photo please?

Actually, it's the other way around. The factory Nissan RB24S (supplied in malaysia and a few other contries) has the stroke of an RB20 and the bore of an RB25, so it's more likely a short stroke RB25. I would guess being a more economical engine and having less power than an RB20DE it would probably utilise the RB20 gearbox.

I'm pretty sure an RB20 ecu won't run an RB25 engine as the fuel and ignition maps would be different, you'd have to get it remapped. You don't have to rip apart the dash to use a new loom, there is only 1 or 2 plugs next to the ECU that may need modifying (not sure on R32/R33 differences).

I've heard if you type the VIN into fast, and the car is an autech model, a dialog box displays "This is an autech model" I've seen the guys talk about it when they "fast" their autech stagea's and S15's I can check your VIN for you if you want? Can I see a photo of your 280km/hr dash? I haven't seen one for a cefiro before The engine has a "Tuned by autech" badge on the top of the inlet manifold (just behind the throttle body), where a normal RB20 has the ECCS badge. I would also guess that a genuine autech model would have plastic skirts and bumpers as opposed to fibreglass copies.

People, was wondering if anyone owns a genuine Autech model and if they do could they tell me the car's VIN number so I can look it up on the nissan FAST program?

Only problem I see here is your fuse selection. You are using 1 30amp relay to supply 6 outputs, which are each protected by a 30amp fuse. Theoretically you could draw 25amps on each output, multiply that by 6, you would be trying to draw 150amps through the relay. Realistically I don't think you would be drawing anywhere near 30amps on most of your outputs, so the relay is probably rated okay. Most accessories will probably draw less than 5 or 10amps. The fuse is there to protect the cable in the event of a fault. An oversized fuse may not blow out and you could end up with an electrical fire. I would suggest removing all the fuses, (leave the fuse holders there) and install a fuse each time you use an output. Most accessories will state how much current they draw, ideally you would want a fuse that is only slightly larger than the rated current of the accessory. Also, since the relay is rated to 30amps, I would suggest placing a single 30amp fuse just infront of the relay, in case your 6 outputs total more than 30amps. And as the others have suggested, the supply between the fuse box and the battery should be fused as close to the battery as possible (you say you are already using a fused distribution block so that is okay). Just have to make sure that the cable you use is capable of supplying current that is larger than your fuses. In this case you have 12 outputs, all using 30amp fuses, that would mean the cable between the battery and the fuse box would have to be capable of supplying 360amps, otherwise you could end up with blown main fuses or even worse an electrical fire.

Yeah I remember you saying you didn't have one back then, but I figured you may have had one in the car that you were using, and that you may not be using it now after the crash...