daisu

That is a cefiro/laurel exhaust, it won't fit S13 or R32 Besides that it looks like a really nice exhaust, a lot better than mine.

Autech Series 2 front, autech series 1 rear, not sure on side skirts. They do come up for sale from time to time, I bought an autech front then about 2 years later found a pair of skirts and rear bumper.

For the rear, use your cefiro handbrake cables. For the front get S14 lines but longer. S14 lines have the same end connection as R32 and R33 calipers. S13 lines have the banjo bolt thing which you aren't supposed to use with the 4 pot calipers.

Rear is certainly not autech, this is what autech looks like and series 2 autech looks the same except it has a bit of flare on the edges.

I would say that the issue is not that the clusters have different ratios, but that the cluster is out of calibration due to age. Cable driven speedometers operate using a spring and rotating magnetic field, when they get old the spring looses it's tension and hence the speedometer reads higher than your real speed.

Yeah that was my original thought, the GT2560, but like I said the compressor housing has A/R .42 written on it. The GT2560 has an A/R of .60

*cough cough* look here

Boost created is relational to load (amount of throttle used). How much throttle do you use to rev the engine in neutral?? (rhetorical question). Small amount of throttle = small amounts of exhaust gases, which in turn means not much boost created. Some "know-it-all" people should probably do a bit of research before acting all big and mighty with their "opinions" If you're turbos are creating more boost than they are supposed to then it is related to your wastegate. The boost-solenoid controls the signal to your wastegate actuator so it is most likely the problem. Best short term solution is to remove the solenoid so the actuators work on their own without the solenoid, and have the turbo's inspected by a reputable mechanic.

go the cb70.... little off topic there.... but I would also say it sounds like actuator, given the symptoms

Compressor housing has Garrett A/R 42 M24 written on it so first thoughts are that it is a standard GTR turbo. Number stamped on plate is 446179-12b As far as I know the b on the end signifies that it is an OEM item, a search of 446179-12 comes up as the Garrett T28R (GT2560). Thoughts?

Front is autech, sides and rear don't look like autech to me.

Manual gear lever surround/leather boot please... The rest of my interior is already black.

Did you use the RB30 engine mounts? or the RB20 mounts?

I'd say that would be the main source of your problems. Get a multimeter out, the TPS has a 3 pin plug. 1 pin is 12V supply, one is a ground, and one is a 0-5V signal to the ECU. Find the 12V and ground pins, then measure between the ground and the 5V pin. You should get something like 0.5V with throttle closed and 4.5V with wide open throttle. Or if you have a mate with a working RB20 in his car you could get him around and swap TPS to see if that fixes your problem.

I will take these thanks, will PM you.

What about something like a megasquirt?

What about something like a SAFC?

They've already got one fabbed up and running on his car with datalogging on inlet/outlet temps. ESS tuning use them in their 10k+ supercharger kits for BMW's. GM uses them as factory items on some of their recent cars. I have no doubt that they will catch on and become a popular water/air cooler. Admittedly they are a bit more expensive compared to the FMIC kits you can pick up for a couple hundred dollars, but I'm sure the efficiency and flow rates will rival the name brand options (ARC, PWR, Trust etc)

I actually have a set of these laminova cores sitting here in my room, going to use them on my next engine (twincam RB30). Have a look on the outerlimits4x4 forums, the same fellow from the ih8mud forums has got a thread going on there about them. ESS tuning make a supercharger kit for BMW which integrates these cores directly into their inlet manifold so there is no piping between the supercharger and plenum.

Did you bleed the air out of the coolant using the bleed nipple on top of the inlet manifold?

So basically, the engine builder might say "the block needs boring out 20thou (0.5mm)" so then I'd go buy some 20thou oversize pistons and the pistons would come with a spec sheet detailing the required bore clearances, which the mechanic would use to bore the block to the correct size?

Perhaps a blockage in the bottom radiator hose like maybe a rag/cloth was put up the hose to prevent stuff getting up there during rebuild and it was missed during reassembly? It's a long shot, but we've all heard stories of people putting rags in inlet pipes only to forget them and they end up stuck in the throttle body. Either that or the RB30 block has a blockage in the water inlet? Was the RB30 in running condition when it was pulled from the car? Did you pull the engine or was it sitting in someones garage/backyard/garden shed for an undetermined period before you bought it? I don't know how the water galleries are designed, but I'd guess the bottom rad hose goes into the block and that is where the water pump takes it feed from? Perhaps take the water pump off again and check with the garden hose you can get water through there?

Like was stated, for street driven/occasional track use the thinner core (which fits standard shroud) is good. The larger core would probably be aimed at higher output engines, in which case they are probably using high quality thermofans and shrouds to suit, (not like some people I know who bought 2 fans from supercheap and cable tied them to his radiator). Thermofans can work well when they are setup correctly with decent gear. For what it's worth, the EL-AU falcon thermo fan setup is a decent setup which can be sourced relatively cheap both brand new and 2nd hand.

Things that will and do affect your compression ratio. stroke (using 26 crank) piston compression height (1mm difference between RB25 and RB26 pistons) piston dish/dome (I don't have factory specs but good chance they are different) deck height (deck height will be affected by other factors such as crank throw, conrod length, piston compression height, whether the block has been decked). combustion chamber volume (this varies from engine to engine and will be affected if the head has been skimmed) To calculate your comp ratio properly, you need to CC your head and pistons (I don't know how you would CC a dome piston, but a dish piston is easy enough) and enter all the values into the compression ratio calculator.

There were a few different diff options. Pretty sure that turbo models had LSD's standard (like most of nissan's range). Whether it is an R180 or an R200 is another thing. You can tell the difference between an R180 and an R200 because the R180 has half ring things bolted onto the side of the housing where the halfshafts come out. If you have an R180 you can swap it with an R200 as long as you make sure the new diff has the same bolt pattern to connect the halfshafts/driveshafts. As for ratios, not entirely sure. You can calculate your ratio when you have the diff out, you have to drain the oil and take the back cover off and count the number of teeth on the crown wheel, then count the teeth on the pinion gear and divide the crown wheel teeth by the pinion teeth to give your ratio.