daisu

The RB30 doesn't have oil squirters in any of the blocks. The turbo has lower compression compared to the NA, so it is a poor choice if you are retaining standard bottom end. Since you are going to be rebuilding with new pistons/rods etc it wouldn't matter which block you used. Though I think the mentality is that a non turbo block has probably had an easier life compared to a turbo block.

I'd just get something like those fujitsubo (spelling) oval mufflers you see kicking around the forums.

I don't see why he needs to solder the crimp connections, as long as he used quality connectors and a proper tool to crimp them. Though you are correct in saying that the length of original wiring will act as a resistor, resistance is proportional to the length of the wire (as well as the cross sectional area), so considering the length of the original (smaller size) wiring looks like about 5cm, any difference in resistance would be negligible. Using large diameter wiring all the way through the connector would require repinning the connector, which on some connectors can be a real PITA.

Yeah, they are phillips, I don't know what I was thinking, make sure you use a decent quality screwdriver and even give it a couple taps with a hammer first to try shock (and loosen) it up a bit. And yeah the shims that go on the outside of the bearings are pretty fiddly, might pay to have a friend help you.

You don't need a consult or whatever to check error codes, there are LED's on the side of the ECU.

Cef's don't have the same chassis as anything except for laurels. There are similarities in certain parts, but like I said before you'll need conversion guards, custom head light mounts among other things.

The diff in the cefiro is the same as the diffs found in S13 and R32. If it is viscous then it sure as hell can be shimmed. If you have access to a decent air compressor and rattle gun then it's pretty easy to do yourself. There is a guide on the D1NZ forums. Basically, you knock the shafts out with a mallet, undo the bolts on the bearing caps, pull the center out of the housing (make sure you watch which way all the spacers/shims/bearings/caps come out). There is like 10 bolts holding the crownwheel to the diff center, undo these with the rattle gun, then underneath the crown wheel is 2 screws (flathead), undo these 2 screws and then you can split the center in 2 parts. You will find the shim goes inbetween these 2 parts (there is already a shim there from factory). Then, get the halfshaft (the one that is longer than the other) and put it through the diff center to make sure that all the splines inside the diff are lined up. Make sure you do this before you reassemble the diff, otherwise you will have to pull it apart again. Once you have the crownwheel bolted back on you can pull the halfshaft out and put the center back into the housing. Make sure you use locktite on the bolts.

BAHAHAHAH sorry, but yeah not even a chance. The parts that they share with silvias (S13) refers to things like, front end: shocks, hubs, uprights (hub carrier), brakes, strut brace, control arms, castor arms rear end: diff, driveshafts, suspension, hubs, uprights, camber/toe/traction arms. Parts that are shared with skyline, engine and gearbox (slight differences), rear brakes and handbrake, seats. When it comes to body panels, only thing that comes close to fitting is the laurel, (think laurfiro). Essentially the laurel is the same as a cefiro, except they have a different body shell. But unlike the s13 silvia/180sx, the doors are not the same so you have problems getting the laurel guards to line up with the cefiro doors (they rub and the body lines don't match).

Any front end will go on, but it most definitely won't be a straight swap. That is only possible on S13 silvia/180sx because they have the same chassis and doors. You will need conversion guards, but I doubt anyone makes them, so you'll need to cut up both pairs of guards and join the S15 guards to the cefiro guards. You'll need custom headlight mounting brackets. Don't know if the S15 front bumper reo fits on the cef or not, might need to cut and weld the S15 reo to the cefiro one to fit it. Bonnet, if you are lucky it will fit, otherwise you might need to do something there (like get a fibreglass one and make it longer?) It's not like this kind of thing hasn't been done before, (think sky-firo, 180-line, s15-80, cef-line), but is going to depend alot on your patience and wallet

Pretty much what bradA31 said. If you've got your original loom, trace the wires that go to the body loom connecter back to the ecu, check the pin number against the RB20 pinout and label it accordingly. Then locate the same item on the RB25 pinout, find the corresponding wire on the RB25 loom and connect that wire the body loom connector in place of the original RB20 wire. As far as I can remember there aren't that many wires on the body loom, just enough to run the instrument cluster and things like ignition on. Shouldn't need to change much else since you'll be using an RB25 ECU and RB25 engine. Except maybe things like powersteering reservoir connection, windscreen wipers..

Looks good with the P1's on it. I'd swap my ceff for a laurel anyday.

Can I ask what the injector duty cycle was like? I was considering using those S15 injectors for my RB25/30 hybrid but I'm worried they won't be big enough. Also, I'm going to be using the Z32 ECU and getting it remapped. How did you go with the loom? From what I've read it looks like there is only a few wires that need repinning at the ECU, then I guess it's just a matter of sorting out the plug for the body loom.

Location?

Just thought I'd add this from another thread, in keeping all the useful parts information in one thread. This is for the gas struts that hold your bonnet up.

I'm going to post this in the parts guide sticky.

Yes, but your method doesn't take into account the number of cylinders. Which is predominantly fine considering this is a skylines forum, but you get my point. If you had a 4cylinder engine and you wanted 400rwhp, you'd have to multiply by 1.5 to get an injector size (600cc) plus a bit more for head room. Krankers method, 400hp/4cyl = 100hp/cyl 100hp/cyl * 6cc/hp = 600cc/cyl (plus fudge factor) Same sh*t, different smell. I wouldn't bother trying to retrofit GTR injectors when the S15 injectors are rated the same (if not higher, depends who you talk to) and are sidefeed.

Bigger AFM = different signal, that's the whole point, it's the same as putting bigger injectors in, your ecu need to be retuned to suit the modifications. I would suggest not driving the car at all until you have either had the ecu tuned or replace the original AFM, as at the moment your engine will be running very lean.

Sold!!!

You can get replacement bulbs that use white LED's, alot brighter than the regular bulbs.

Pretty sure base maps are available on the nistune forums.

Guys, got a blitz front mount here, turnflow style, was fitted to my cefiro. Not 100% sure, but from what I remember it was 600*300*80. I gave it a light misting coat with matt black to hide it a bit. It does have some damage that was done and repaired before I bought and used it. Had no issues with it, reason for sale is I'm going to try water/air cooling. I've also got a bunch of random inlet pipes you can have for free if you think they'll be of use to you. Price, $200 Location, Wynnum Contact, 0432 848 627 or PM Pics, Thanks, Luke

Give the chassis number to ford, they should be able to supply you a new key providing the locks haven't been changed

Surely there would be replacement shocks available somewhere, but at what cost I'm not sure. Mine are blown, I just support the bonnet using an R32 skyline bonnet prop. There are holes in the rad support and bonnet from factory.

Well the afm measures the mass amount of air flowing through, so it shouldn't matter what temp or pressure you are running. The only issues would be how it physically holds up against the increased temps/pressure (ie it could leak or temps may cause premature failure of the circuitry inside the AFM. That and oily air as mentioned. If you want to clean up the intake get yourself a MAP and inlet temp sensors.

location?