daisu

I couldn't recall it the other night but I knew I'd heard another good one. One of my mates calls it... sea - afro (as in the hair style afro)

Ah kay, out of curiosity, does it look like they've changed the chassis of the cefiro to fit the double wishbone setup? Or does it look like the kind of thing you could pull out of an AWD cefiro and put in an S13 chassis?

i say it like this "s-fear-oh" heard many combinations, I think I like Maxima best lol s-far-oh s-fir-oh s-fear-a (almost like zafira, crappy holdens trying to emulate jap import coolness)

I don't see the point in using a larger diameter disc if the caliper/pad size is the same. Especially since you will be loosing 2mm thickness, I would be sticking with the thicker rotors you have now.

Guys, was looking at the project R-14 website (where they transplant GTR running gear into S14s) and I remembered that A31's came out in an AWD model (like the skylines GTS-4). Since the A31 uses the same suspension setup at the front as S13s (as opposed to skylines double wishbone) theoretically should be a good platform for those wanting to make their S13 AWD. I personally have never seen an AWD A31 or heard anyone talk about them. Has anyone here seen one or own one? Cheers, Luke

Was the remap done with an aftermarket turbo? or is it to suit the factory turbo?

Just because your engine was off few a few seconds I don't think the turbo would've suffered any damage. I'd say damage would occur after heavy use (like the skid you pulled) then turning off and leaving the car turned off for extended period. It would be more from when the turbo has stopped spinning and it becomes unevenly heated without the oil to help disperse the heat. It's not going to stop spinning after a couple seconds of engine off though.

Hey people, I know these threads pop up quite often and I've read through all(if not most) of them looking for things to check. This issue I'm having is the engine hits a flat spot of hesitation while trying to accelerate, it happens around the 2-3krpm mark and can sometimes push through it if I pump the throttle up and down, otherwise it'll get stuck and not accelerate (kind of like a limiter) and the car gets jerky. It also does the hesitation thing while trying to cruise. Once you get past about 3krpm it runs fine and there is no issues with power at all, it will rev right out to limiter with full power, (not that I drive it that hard anyway). Also, if you've saw me on the QR skidpan on the 2nd you would have noticed how badly the car was suffering from lack of power down low. It has been doing it pretty much since I got the engine (from a halfcut) used to only do it rarely, but has been increasing in frequency and now it's doing it all the time. Doesn't matter if it's cold or hot. It also used to have intermittent idle issues but I traced that back to dirty AAC valve (which I've cleaned now and idle is good). Modifications, not many (if any, lol) has a no name dump/front/straight through, pod filter and front mount. Not running any sort of boost controller but it runs about 11psi by itself (has done since I got the engine out of the halfcut). Otherwise its stock. Things I've checked so far include, fuel pump - getting healthy 13volts on idle coilpacks - I can't see any evidence of cracks or burn marks, but they possibly could be failing? I cleaned out the little cylinders that the springs sit in and also stretched the springs a bit to make sure they were contacting the spark plugs properly, and cleaned the tip of the carbon pieces. sparkplugs - brand new copper plugs gapped to 0.8mm (maybe a little closer to 0.7 as I was worried about coilpacks not having enough energy to spark the gap). AFM - cleaned with contact cleaner, opened the cover and checked the solder joins, they were good but I resoldered them anyway ECU fault codes - 55 all good CAS/static timing - checked with timing light, have tried on 15BTDC(factory) and a bit advanced (20BTDC) no affect on hesitation TPS - was on .4V when I checked it so I set it to .5V checked plugs were all inserted properly. Things I haven't checked or am thinking of, fuel pressure - can I just put a gauge inline between the fuel filter and the fuel rail injectors - possibly they are clogged? do I have to get them flow tested to find out? fuel filter - I haven't changed for a while, but I'm thinking if it was this the problems would continue higher in the rev range, its cheap and easy to rule out though inlet piping - i can't see anything obvious, but maybe it is leaking, I checked all the hoses/clamps. I'm thinking to leak test the pipes I'd need a cup on one end and a cup with gauge and fitting to pressurize it. Thats pretty much all I can think of at the moment, If there is anything else you can recommend that I check I'd be happy to hear it. Thanks, Luke

I wouldn't try it with expensive plugs (iridium/platinum) but I reckon it'd be worth a shot with cheaper copper plugs, for experimentation.

When you say its not starting, is it just constantly winding over? Or does it wind over and occasionally cough and splutter but never start? My mates CA has an overfueling issue on startup which he gets around by having a switch on his dash to turn the fuel pump off/on. He turns the key to engine on to pressurize the fuel rail then turns the fuel pump off for a couple seconds while starting the engine.

zip tie stitching looks hot on ceffies

I'd swap my Cefiro for a laurel but other than that I wouldn't want to sell it because of how much effort I've poured into it, knowing that I wouldn't be able to get much money back

Hey champ, bit of a long shot but I have some work wheels 17*8, 17*9 offset is +38 If you are interested shoot me a PM?

You already stripped your interior didn't you? Might as well go for hydro setup

I'm having the same issue where it looks like the rim is too wide to pump the guard, but if I was going to have them flared I'd want to do it properly.. but then my rims wouldn't be wide enough lol I should've bought the 10" wide for the rear.

Yeah I plan on trying some 215 or 225 next time, I lipped the rear arch but I didn't have a bar big enough to try pumping it out. I'd like to do a proper flaring like the Ceffy with the D-Max kit in one of the other threads but money is tight and at the moment I'm focusing on functionality over looks (as you can tell by my front bumper)

You book a time for tyre shop? I drove an hour to buy my wheels from tokage racing imports, drove back home via tyre shop, asked them for a price on tyres (it was reasonable price) so I said okay I'll leave the rims here, went to autobarn next door to buy some oil/coolant etc 15 mins later valves and tyres fitted and balanced $520 Out of interest what tyres are you getting for $740? Toyo Proxes? Also, 2gceffy, +1 for archer slides, here's a picture of me sliding at archer I had no scrubbing issues with +38 on the rear, but I do now that I have +20 (both 17*9 with 235/45tyres). And on the front my wheels/tyres are rubbing against the inner arch at full lock, I don't have lock spacers or anything.

I would spooge in my pants if an instant gentleman kit came out for cefiro, I like the style of them (similar to autech) how it doesn't go "BAM look how far out my flares go!" If they were any wider they'd be in the bozo section.

17*9 + 34 will sit pretty good on the rear. Here's a photo of some other wheels I used to run on the rear, 17*9 +38 fitted with 235/45, factory camber arms etc. Depending on what tyres you fit you may need to lip the guards?

17*9 +20 with 235/45 all round. Front is mint, You didn't hear me say this, but I think rear offset is a little too low

Dude, this isn't a wonder kit, it's an Autech kit. Hit up some importers, or have a look through the Cefiro section instead of bumping up old For Sale threads.

Just have a quick look under the rear of the car, you'll see each rear wheel has a driveshaft (with CV joints) coming out of it. The drive shafts then bolts onto the half-shafts that come out of the diff. There are 2 bolt patterns for the halfshafts/driveshafts. 5 bolts evenly spaced, or 6 bolts arranged in 3 pairs. S13 uses 3*2, and R32 uses 5 bolt. Most A31/C33 I've seen use 3*2 but have a look under the rear of the car and check.

Depends whether the car is fitted with a 5*1 or 3*2 bolt pattern driveshafts. S13s use the 3*2 bolt pattern, and R32s use the 5*1 bolt pattern. Just swap in an LSD from either one depending on what bolt pattern your driveshafts have. Also, just to clarify, they don't have an axle as such because of the Independent rear suspension, it has the diff and 2 driveshafts (sometimes referred to as CV's, because they have CV joints in them). Axle usually refers to cars that have a live axle (solid axle) such as KE/AE corollas for example.

please explain "pinard rods"

Autech Series 2? Don't quote me on that though.