Full-Race Geoff
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Posts posted by Full-Race Geoff
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the one you want is either 3843S-RS520 (45ft/lb) or 3843S-RS521 (75ft/lb). for your car I'd got with the RS521 kit.
yes, thank you beer baron!! that is exactly what i was thinking, sent an email to a nissan buddy of mine to try and get that for me. What do you ascertain to be th difference between serrated disc and smooth disc? i suppose the serratted disc would run slightly cooler due to having more gear oil between the plates
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thank you savman, im going to go with the 14 then, i really like the rear to have a solid lock, dont mind it on the street.
nzm - yes they are alloy. if you have gtst and want to upgrade to alloy knuckles you need z32, not gtr
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we both got the same 8kg serrated disc
What is the difference from serrated to smooth disc, and why did you decide on 8 vs 12? thanks alot!
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geoff what you want is the nismo diff upgrade kit. it's a kit of new disks for the diff. they add different combos of friction plates etc to get the desired characteristics. there are two kits available for stock GTR diffs with different initial torque settings. when installed properly in a 32 GTR diff it makes it very tight and very predictable, consistent lock up behaviour.
i have the 2007 nismo catalog, but there are (4) kits available? take a look, do you know the differences?
Me and my mate are running these in out cars, they work great, and they'r cheap. My mate went from a super aggressive Tomie 2 wa, 'back' to the Nismo clutch packs, and it made the car faster and easier to drivecould you please you ask your mate if he got the 8kg or 12kg? and serrated disc or smooth disc?
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btw interesting anti-dive in the castor rod spacers at the front....looks simple and worth trying
i dont think this will change the anti-characteristics, since the actual pickup points do not move...
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thanks, but that is for the viscous diff - the GTR uses a clutch diff!
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some susp mods to consider -- courtesy of nagisa auto R34 GTR
we have an R34 gtr here with the complete nagisa kit for anyone interested. i can snap some pics of the susp components for detail.
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Please dont make us wait
i would love to post pics of the r34 here in the shop right now, but i can not release any pics for a few more months. the turbocharging industry is in for big changes. i promise details and data will be released as soon as is allowed for me to share
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We have had a lot of success just shimming the standard rear diff. obviously 1.5 or even 1 way aftermarket centre is even more effective.
How do you find the quaife when one wheel is off the ground, or is that not an issue for you? we have a nasty last corner at our local goat track where the front inside wheel is off the ground for a fair way.
thanks for the info - how are you shimming the diff? Can you share any pics of this? I think the aftermarket center will probably happen, but this would be a nice solution for the time being. Also going to open the transfer case up and see if i can add 2 more discs in there.
the quaife does fine in the front here because ive never lifted a front yet... if i could do it again it would be an ATS or OS giken front AND rear.
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i already have a quaife front diff, and i am sponsored by the driveshaftshop, so the axles are no problem. i need to fix my rear diff now tho as the stock gtr clutchpacks keep going open.
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here are some pics of the ATESSA test-jig i built. It is going to a very bright electrical engineer friend of mine who has experience with his own tq split ECU for time attack subarus. The GST subaru runs his system with great results.
cant wait to see what he comes up with - using onboard G sensor built onto his circuit board
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I only kind of agree with that - ball joint spacers or longer ball joints help but do not restore the factory geometry/roll centre unless you adjust the upper arms as well, which is hard to almost impossible without major changes.
yes duncan, i do agree with that! unfortunately tallish ride height is required to keep the susp working right
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Well this is something I haven't heard much about, and just wondering what the results were like, and wether you had played around with it much. My car is rwd, so any added traction is alway in order. what sort of spacing are we talking 1-2mm or 10mm??
if you are asking about "tilting the subframe" you can do that to change antisquat... however i didnt do that - i only spaced the snout of my driveshaft down with washers becuase instead of tilting the subframe, i just lifted it up all the way (until i couldnt raise it anymore) and my driveshaft is giant so it would almost hit the gas tank shield. Raising the subframe like this this did have a small change in antisquat, but the big difference is massive roll center correction. The front of a GTR is way easy to correct roll center with - front balljoint spacers + adjustable tie rod ends.
If you want good traction - what are the lengths you are using for your RUCA and Rear traction rod? Taking the time to measure bumpsteer is advised..
Will hold off on any decision for my car until then if your single results are anything to go by. Any more development for this car?i can tell you that the year 2010 is going to be a BIG year for the turbocharging industry
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Here is the dynochart from my latest round of testing with my RB26 (this was done in 4wd, on UMS's awd dynapacks, previous testing was done in 2wd mode)
this compares the S300P 0.80 a/r to the S300SX w/ 88mm compressor 1.00 a/r
orange: 0.80 a/r S300P, custom machined housing - 17.5psi tapering to 16psi
green: 0.80 a/r S300P, custom machined housing - 20.5psi tapering to 17.5psi
VS
pink:S300SX 88-75 1.00 a/r 19psi
blue: S300SX 88-75 1.00 a/r 19psi (same as above) with slight cam gear adjustment (advanced to +3 intake from +2, and added a little fuel during spoolup)
you can see the considerable gains in area-under-the-curve that i was able to acheive with this new turbo, and very small loss up top - well worth the tradeoff.
now that im all done, considering the amount of work I went through for this and time and expense required to make this S300P work, i think the 83-75 would have provided virtually the same powerband, and fit better as well as be easier to install.
^^I would kill to get that powerband with my RB26..
Hey GeoffI've deicded to go back to twins for my setup.. after finding out the borg warner wont fit onto the manifold i have.. and cant spend much on it anymore dew to job.
no problem!! we will have a solution for the twin turbo guys T25 setups in the fall
well worth waiting for..would love to hear more about this!sorry i dont understand what you want to hear more about?
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just got back from the dyno and printed off some comparisons - I will update the thread with the dynocharts, seeing some very interesting trends you guys will be interested in
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Please post the video link http://www.full-race.com/r14-fire-video.html on any forums or social networking sites you visit!! we need a lot of video views to make sure our sponsors stay with us for next year - you wouldnt believe how hard it is to get sponsorships these days, even for us
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here is some video of our final lap of the day (fast lap) and the cooldown lap:
Full-Race R14 Catches Fire at 2010 Tuner Shootout (Video) <--- click here
You can hear the aluminum exhaust break around 1min 25secs, and thats when things start to get scary..
the exh setup was we used a 22" long stainless DP, followed by the long aluminum exhuast. We used header wrap at the front of the exh, to protect the p/s hoses from heat, and this likely shortened the exhaust's life.. This aluminum exh has seen a lot of abuse, many hours of dynoing, street driving and practice sessions. The heavy loads during the time attack event were just too much and it gave up
fortunately it was an easy cleanup, the car is already back to blingin! needs a little work this weekend, but will be 100% by monday.
here she is during some street driving
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yes i am aware of that, as well as the Bee*R unit and HKS has one also. i personally dont like any of the piggybacks, i feel a standalone controller is the only way to _properly_ get it done...
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i promise a big post with more updates is coming, but right now its late and i need to eat some food.. in the meantime here is a breakdown of the atessa unit, ive got big things in store for this -- the data we acquired during testing and at the race taught me a lot about tq split and how good the stock nissan systems design is - just not the stock atessa ecu. I am working with a high level engineer on a standalone tq split controller that will replace the atessa ecu.
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could you please post up the gear ratios on this setup?
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what a busy weekend, ive got a TON of pics/vids to sort thru and will make an update probably friday. phew its over!
now i get to start on a new race car... learned sooooooooo much
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thanks guys, its going to be a long week but should have some good results in a few more days. very happy with the setup overall - the twinscroll turbo + tomei 280 is a killer combination
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R14 shakedowns at bondurant today 4/5/2010, low boost (13psi)
extremely happy with this new turbo
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So when is the 'p' available to the public, I've been procrastinating over turbo choice for too long!
after i test it, assuming we see favorable results they can be ordered with a 4 week leadtime. If it does not do what we expect, it will not be released.
I had a friend with a 100% stock R33 RB26 (Stock cams, stock everything) tune with a twinscroll 35R today for good reference. i will post that dyno up shortly, and then compare my new turbo dynosheet to it
well worth waiting for..
Time Attack Setup For A Gtr
in Motorsport
Posted · Edited by Full-Race Geoff
that is the best info ive received in years THANK YOU!!!
Im really excited to use this kit in my R32/R33 rear diff, but had no idea it would fit the R34 diff also! Would the vspec be the active diff model you are referring to? We have an R34 here which i would love to do this to, I had no idea this kit would work there also. Thanks for the info
btw some great info here on link lengths: http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...suspension.html