mark32gts-t

the line is being tapped from the inlet manifold. so this 12psi is after I/C and piping

I've just installed a boost gauge on my car with intentions of boosting it slightly in future. Everythings stock except for 3" full exhuast but still with stock cat. From what I've read the stock boost on a R32 is meant to be 10psi, whilst taking it for a drive WOT in 3rd its hitting 12psi but holds there. so not spiking. Any thoughts on why its running 12psi? considering everything is stock...

Cheers for the replies. Think I might jack my car up and have a closer look. maybe take some pics

yes, diff oil has been replaced and is filled to the correct level. it only whines on deceleration, from what i've read its the meshing of the gears that have "play" due to wear and this is what whines... anyone else???

SORRY JUST SOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!

My diff whines like hell and am considering just replacing the whole housing with a 2nd hand one. My question is this, my car has ABS and from what I understand it has an ABS sensor in it. Can this sensor be transferred across into a non ABS housing. I had a look on fast and there appears to be an illustration showing the sensor. Just not sure if the ABS section can be fitted into a non-abs diff housing. Included the fast image. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers

I just bought some of these BRKT STOPERS (4 in total). A mate of mine is in Japan so got him to buy them for me and post them over here. If I told you the price difference you would cry. Just shows how much profit nissan Aus is making on these soughts of parts. Mark

Price drop, $70 posted anywhere...

anyone interested at all? this is pretty cheap for a brand new gauge. rocket industries sell these for $100 without postage. i can only imagine what autobarn would charge

Price drop to $80. dont need 2 gauges

Item: Autometer Phantom mechanical boost gauges (5701 and 5703) Age: 1 week Condition: New, both still sealed in packaging Price: $85 each and $5 P&H To Fit: (What car) any turbo Location: Brisbane Contact: pm me Comments: I recently bought an autometer boost gauge and then got given one as a gift. So I now have 2 gauges but only require 1. For this reason I am posting both for sale and first person in gets to choose which one they want and I will keep the other. Included are pics of each and a link to the autometer site. Both are still sealed and come with everything you need to install. Pics http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.a...=2654&sid=7 http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.a...=2653&sid=7

Well I fitted the new A-pillar trims today. Wasn’t much of a hassle. Took more pics of the steps. My old ones were pretty much wrecked and went straight into the bin. To make it easier getting them off, remove the rear parcel shelf. It’s just got push in clips that hold it on Next thing is to remove the seatbelt bolts so the trim piece can be pulled off. The plastic part that feeds the seatbelt through the trim also has to be unclipped so the belt can be fed through once the trim is off. It unclips from the bottom. Next step is to pull the trim off. You’ll be chucking it anyway so don’t worry too much about breaking anything. Some of the plastic broke out of mine when I pulled them off. As you can see mine are brittle and falling apart The new one ready to go in The next step is to feed the belt back through the rear hole, line it up and press the trim back into place. There are a total of 11 clips that need to go in. You’ll know when all the clips are in as it sits nicely against the roof and rear window. I founding working from the rear bottom clip first worked the best. The new trim looks good and doesn’t have any vinyl hanging off like the previous one. Bolt the seatbelts back in and make sure they are done up tight enough. Dont want those coming loose. Next step is to put the rear panels back on. But will have to wait till another day. Had some other stuff I needed to do. Cheers, Mark

I first tried water based contact adhesive. It didn't work as the glue on the material was taking too long to dry. So I just used Selleys contact adhesive, it said heat resistant on the tin. so if it stands in the sun they wont just peel off again

Cheers for all the 'good works' the material/seude is manufactured by Fabtex. My bosses sister sells fabric/material to furniture upholsterers so I asked her if she could get some for me. I believe it is actually for automotive use so worked out well. I bought 2 meters but only really needed 1. Considering I was paying cost price it was still expensive at $23/metre The link and colours, although colours dont seem that accurate as platinum looks almost brown: http://www.fabtex.com.au/products/suede.php Not taking into account panel removal, the cleaning, cutting, masking, lining up, and slowly glueing probably takes around 3 hours per door. But in saying that I would consider myself a bit of a perfectionist. I remember looking at some 32s before I bought mine that had the material already removed. I would say its virtually impossible to cut new fabric without the original trim cloth If anyone is keen for the left over material after I'm done there should be enough to do all 4 panels. Will have to measure it exactly. Think the role is 1.5 meters wide

When I first bought my car there were a few little things that I wanted to fix. Things like the vents (like every 32), and the trim falling off. You know the small things that bother you about your car. The vents got fixed relatively soon after I bought my car but I just never got round to sticking the trim back on. At some point in time the passenger side door was glued back but not very well, and glue had come through the fabric. So there was a hard patch. I decided I’d have a go at re-trimming the doors myself as I didn’t think it would be that hard and money is pretty tight. Over the last couple of weekends I’ve stripped the back out and removed all the trims. Slowly I’m getting done. As my 32 is the later model is has the blue/grey colour scheme. I tried to match the suede that I used as best as I could to the side colours of my seats. It’s similar to the R32 GTR trim but with more grey in it. Photos are somewhat in order with some notes on each. My trim when I got my car, its been like this for over 2 years the door panel removed the rear semi stripped the glue holding it on was relatively old so just peeled off it looked like someone had tried to glue the material back on once before with the driver side as there were parts that were quite sticky after cleaning it up with some turps and then metho to remove the oilyness the material that I used and the GTR colour using the old material as a template to cut the new material. This was an important step as the material has to line up in the edges on the trim insert the material just placed over the door this jumps a little as I forgot to take pics when doing the front doors, but mask the insert off with masking tape. Makes it easier when applying the contact adhesive the rear material placed on the door After this I used a plastic paint scraper to press the material into the corners to make sure everything lined up. Then put 10 or so pins into the door to hold it in place. Doing a small section first to line it up and then doing small parts until the whole thing is done. the glue being applied The finished rear door panel. Depending on the light, the colour of the material changes. With the flash on it looks really grey which isn’t really what it looks like. Its Platinum Suede that I used The front door, sorry about the crap light and fuzzy photo Whilst removed the back seat I managed to mangle one of the clips that hold it in place, it was definitely not going to hold the seat in once I was done. So I FASTED the part number and got some new ones from Nissan. Around $8 each. When I got my car the A pillar trims had seen better days, all the vinyl was cracked and peeling off. While I had everything apart I figured I’d fork out the $130 per trim and replace them both. My luck too, Nissan had them in stock as someone must’ve ordered them and never picked them up. The part numbers and new trims I haven’t finished putting it all together yet as I still have one last rear panel to do. But I am pretty happy with how it’s turned out so far. One thing I can say is that contact adhesive is a bitch.

I am yet another 32 owner who has scratches on my drivers window. I had my door trim off the other day and checked out those pads. They look dusty so most likely what has scratched my window. Anyone removed them? How do you get them out from the door? They look like they slide out but I dont want to damage them without having a replacement part. $129 is definately pricey for new pads.

May sound crazy but to prevent oil from spilling everywhere when I take my filter off I use an old 2L ice cream container and put it right under the filter. Once the filter is off you can squash the container enough to pull both the container and the filter in it through the top past the manifold. It prevents any oil from spilling anywhere. I do however have skinny arms so this may make it easier for me. I also loosen the oil cap before removing the sump plug, as it lets the oil drain easier. Good luck with your first oil change

My door trim material is coming off, I think its common in the R32 gts-t as I've seen come missing the material. I'm planning on contacting the material back but not sure what contact to use. As its in a closed environment I found some water based selleys stuff that has no vapours/fumes. Its available at bunnings for $15 for a 500ml tub http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-Kwik-Gri...ld/default.aspx has anyone had experience with contacting trim in a car or any other tips? Any help is appreciated. Cheers

SOLD

In Fairfield

Price drop to $50, need it gone. make an offer

bump

Item: 1000lb Engine Stand Condition: good condition, some surface rust but nothing serious Price: $60 To Fit: (What car) any Location: Brisbane Southside (5 minutes from CBD) Contact: post on here or pm me Comments: need to get rid of it as its taking up garage space. Can be taken apart to fit in the boot of a car. Will probably need new bolts for the connecting plate and I dont have a handle for it some images

Has anyone used RAPID REWIND located in Rocklea to have their windings rewound? What do they charge to have this done? Cheers

You wont really know till you put it on, it also depends on the cannon that you use. If the cannon has more dampening fibres it will be quieter. I think you will be hard pressed finding a quiet, free flowing exhaust that will give you more power. Those two things don't really go together