Noel

I threw cooler in on the weekend after giving it a good clean with a 50/50 kero/metho mix (took 3-4 flushes) then gave the outside a good degrease & also straightened up as possible all the blades that had been bent from tiny rocks etc hitting it anyhow as above i also noticed boost comes on quicker but also maybe even a tad stronger...I defintaley notice the dual stage jump from 5psi-7psi more now with 34 SMIC than std 33 SMIC...anyway Turbotech boost control is in the mail & bidding for a gauge on ebay so once arrived will make it a constant 7psi or maybe 8psi & should be sweet as for now til i can afford full exhaust & power fc later down the track. Definatley a good cheap upgarde worth doing especially if you have no plans on upgrading turbo but want to to do all the usual's (exhaust, intake etc) Regards Noel

No problem..will do I was thinking of a FMIC but my car is bog stock, exhaust & all & I have no plans for changing the turbo or anything, so the way i see it for under $300 (R34 SMIC, boost control & gauge) i will have a better intercooler, a touch more boost (or the same but constant) & it will still be practically stock. If later down the track i decide to, all i would really need is a full exhaust & power fc & id be pretty much done & be looking at close to 200rwkw which is more than enough for a street car in my opinion.

Thanks Rev Legend!!! I'll have a read of these...I got myself a R34 SMIC & Shroud the other night from a user on SAU ;-) so looking forward to throwing it on ;-) Might get myself a Turbotech boost control & cheap boost gauge too & either just set it to a constant 7psi instead of the 5/7psi std or maybe even wind it up to a massive 8psi hehe since i should now have a bit better flowing intercooler Once again Thanks Noel

Ok here we go... I have done many searches & this is what i have come to find so far...(please correct me if i am wrong) The std R33 turbo ceramic exhaust wheel is rated at 14psi max A stock 33 with std SMIC has a pressure drop of 5-7psi from 5000-7000rpm A good FMIC has around a 1psi pressure drop A R33 GTS-T takes boost reading after the IC, meaning it is not a true reading of what the turbo is actually doing. If all the above is true this means that a std 33 is almost running at turbo's max potential (7psi plus 5-7psi pressure drop which equals 12-14psi at the turbo) therefore should not be boosted much more & since a good FMIC only has a 1psi drop then logically should be safe to run 12-13psi reading from gauge (meaning 13-14psi at turbo) Anyway the point of this thread is to see if i have got it right but mainly to ask what would the pressure drop be if a R34 SMIC was fitted (which is approx 30% larger than std SMIC) & what would be a safe level to run at the gauge using the above reasoning? Any thoughts or comments would be grateful Cheers Noel

if you even run a 14 once you get tyres you should be ashamed hehe

went in this car yesterday!!! amazing difference the power fc has made all round...nice & smooth, barley any lag (compared to before) & pulls hard right through rev range...with traction & a bit of practice should easily get under a 13.5 all day long

Not with 3.1 60ft times you wont hehe Bring yours around once Power FC is tuned & take me for a crack in it

i once got told that if you have an active lsd you will have a liitle red light on your dash somewhere with A-LSD next to it?

Simple Bang for buck!!! & since i have a 4door Manual Turbo, something different!!!

Sweet Thanks

Dont mean to Hi-Jack but what is the widest width tyre i can put on stock rims???? Currently 20/55 r16

This is a quote from something SydneyKid once told me... "It’s simple maths, if the engine is making 30% more power (= 30 % more airflow) then you can have 30% more volume in the inlet system and have the same response" So with this logic if you are going to get a front mount make sure its one suited to your mods, power levels, psi etc & you cant go wrong but if you do like alot of people seem to do & get a massive front mount & piping suited to something with much more power than you have it will be an overkill an you might loose throttle response with little or no gains

ET: 14.363 MPH: 96.11 60': 2.086 Tyres: Bridgestone Potenza 205/55 r16 Nitrous: No Fuel: BP Ultimate Nissan R33 Manual 4Door GTS-T (Stock as a rock) Link 14.3.PDF

series 1 or 2? how much tread left on wheels?

I just got some Motul Gear 300 for GB & Gear FF for Diff...have not put it in yet but i heard its good & cheaper than Redline which is very good but very pricy

yea even if its not that might be worth doing anyhow...thanks guys

could the fact that i took out filter of caused the ecu to run overly rich therefore causing carbon build up in aac valve?

Hi have a manual 33 with rb25det...anyway since i have had it it has always idled at approx 700-800pm with a slight miss occasionally but its very very tiny...anyway since i ran my car at WSID 2 weeks ago i have noticed that it has been idling higher at around 900-1000rpm...its not all the time tho...sometimes its as before & sits lower, other times its at 700rpm then creeps up to 1000rpm & other times its just higher straight away...when i ran it i took out air filter panel but put it straight back in after so i have done an ecu reset as i thought maybe it was all confused with diff air/fuel ratios etc from when i took out filter but still doing it?...im not worried as its not idling at 2000rpm or anything & still runs the same but what could be the cause of this? Thanks

Bendix Advanced...No noise, barely any dust, better than std & cheap

yea i thought it was 10psi...re the actuator i meant using a r32 one (his) in a r33 (mine) so then i would have 10psi instead of 5/7psi cause yea as you said now that he has EBC it would be overriding it ok well his guy must have got confused

My mate has a R32 & got an EBC installed & it has different settings/modes etc but they have set up std boost as 7psi...i thought they were 10psi std? they also told him you cant use boost control from a r32 in a r33 which i thought was possible by just swapping actuators which he now would not be using since he has EBC?

i did a 2.0 60ft taking off at around 2500rpm but suppose different setups, take off techinques etc all are factors affecting launch & somethings work for some but not for others

yea totally agree that 3500rpm is too much on street tyes with std suspension setup...my best launch last week was when i held it at about 2200rpm then as yellows came on i started to let clutch out (almost a dump) as i floored it & it just axxle tramped a tiny bit then sat down & took off & i pulled a 2.0 with a dead stocker 33 sedan tried to go 3000rpm the next time & it wheel spun & did a 2.3

from my times in a dead stocker if you can get a 2.0-2.2 60ft you should crack a 13.9-14.1 i reckon with about 98-100mph with your mods...what do the rest of you think?

as soon as you tramp it it goes where as in my 33 anything under 3000-3500rpm it takes a second or two to get going still rather my car tho