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ok, how do you guys remove your stock air filter box cover on a 32 GTR? I want to take off the afm and give them a clean. But I can't seems to remove the air box? On the manual it says you are suppose to remove the outlet hose 1st, but I can't for the life of me pull the dam thing off. I've already loosen the cable tie and the metal hose clamp. Is there some sort of trick??

Which way do I turn to make the damping softer? Is it the same place where I adjust for the rear (on the top with a allen key) as well?

Not sure if people already knows this, but this jap company makes heaps of nice interior trim bits and exterior bits for skylines, silvias, 350z...etc I just bought the carbon look seat cover and shift panel carbon trim. Hopefully, they fit and look sweet like the one in the picture. :-) For ppl who owns the 32GTR, here are some of their products to spice up the interior. All of them have the "weaved" carbon look, including the dash mat and rear cargo mat. Btw, superior do not ship internationally. So if you want to buy these, most of them are available on yahoo auction for a cheaper price. So you can always use a japanese auction broker like shoppingmalljapan or rinkya to get them for you. Beware thou, these broker usually charge quiet a bit of fees.

Did it come fresh off the boat? If thats the case, get it serviced asap. oil change, oil filter, fuel filter, plugs, air filter, gear box oil and timing belt and maybe diff oil as well. The o2 sensor probabaly needs to be changed as well if you are getting crappy economy. AFM need a clean using contact cleaner and you should be sweet.

So I was fiddling around with the car today and discovered that I don't have a 75A "Main Fuse" installed in the fuse box?? It looks like the whole thing has been taken out including the male connector at the bottom. Car runs without any problem. But I'm just wondering why is it missing and what is its function? Its number 10 (main) for the engine bay fuse box. http://www.skylinegts.co.uk/R32-Fuses.htm

Interested in the SUMP. Location in Sydney?

This may sounds like a stupid question, but could someone tell me the correct combination the front light and indicator suppose to work on a 32GTR? Currently, if I turn the light switch on once, both indicator lights up constant (WTF??). If I turn it once more, the headlight comes on as well, but both indicator lights remains on (constant, no flashing)?? If I use the indicator stalk, the indicators flashs brighter than they already are, so thats fine. How are the lights suppose to work? One turn means instrument cluster light on? 2 turns means headlight on? Then the high beam is activated by the button on the dash, is that the correct combination? Also, I've noticed that there are 2 globes in the indicator? How is that suppose to work? Much appreciated guys.

In addition to the oil gallery restrictor, did you also upgrade the oil pump to at least an N1? Also, did you upgrade your sump by either installing a baffle or have it modified with extension and trap door? If you haven't, then there is the problem.

I'm interested to know as well. I want to get a similar Double DIN unit but with GPS and DVB-T

Famous just changed their policy. I'm 25 turning 26 soon with a reasonbly clean driving record, 1 minor accident at fault and 1 speeding ticket and that was it since I got my license 5 yrs ago. Called up famous the other day to insure my 32GTR, and they won't do it. End up having to stick with just car which I used for my 180sx for the past year, paying $1850 now 4 full comp(insured for $25k), 600 excess for accident and 1600 if car is stolen. A bit on the expansive side.

Like what others have already suggested, don't pay so much attention on the km's as it is pretty much impossible to find a genuine example unless full log book has been provided. Otherwise, you just don't know the history of the car. You should do a general overall body and chassis check 1st BEFORE even looking into the mechanical side of things as none of the other bits will help if the car has a bent or a "straightened" chassis. A majority of GTR's on the market will have some kinda of repair done to them, such as panel replacement...etc. This is fine, as long as the chassis alright. For a general body check (BRING A GOOD FLASH LIGHT WITH YOU!!) and check the following: - Look for uneven panel gaps around the bonnet, bumper, door, side skirts, rear bumper, rear boot lid, lights. Use your hand to feel the gap on both side of the car and see if they are the same. - Look in the engine bay and see if there are any evidence of fresh/mismatching paint - Check all the bolts (e.g. bonnet hinge bolt) and see if they've been turned - Check the bog lines in the engine bay and see if they are consistant on both side of the car - Check in the wheel arch with your flash light and see if there are any crack or RUST, or any inconsistancies. - Check all around under the car with your flash light and see if there are any RUST, bent or damaged support rail or any inconsistancies. - Check all around under the car for any sign of oil leak. - Check in the boot, remove the carpet and spare wheel and see if there are any major rust (minor surface rust is ok). - Stick your hand into behind both rear quarter panels (where the car jack are kept) and feel if it is damp or has water collecting in there or rusty. One of the huge thing to look out for is RUST. Some surface rust is ok since its a 15 year old car, but deep rust with bits flaking off will need treatement urgently and you should stay away from such car. STAY AWAY from cars with a painted bottom (usually black), which maybe an attempt to hide repair marks, or even a 2 car in 1 or 3 car in 1. STAY AWAY from cars if there are clamp marks or unusual gashes on the bottom support rail (straightening machine mark). One thing that I found when I was shopping for my 32GTR is that you HAVE to look at at least a couple different cars and compare. This way, you'll have a better idea of the general condition and whats good and whats not. I still recommend you getting it independantly inspected by a qualified mechanic if you are unsure.

I need a new alarm, but tossing between either AutoWatch or Mongoose and will most likely go top of the range. If I go Autowatch, I'll most likely have it installed by securityinmotion, otherwise, I'll contact platinumppi for the mongoose. Both installers seems to have good feedbacks on the forum. Just want to hear ppl's feedbacks and recocommendations on either system. Cheers

I did do a search, but can't really find a straight answer. Whats the best tyres I can get for around the $250 mark? 17s - 235/45

Awesome. Thanks for the info ;-)

Cool. It sounds like they do have some experience in body work and such. But what about mechanical and engine wise?

Anyone have used them for pre-purchase inspection? Any comments?

- All comes down to if you like it or not. - You can get body kit for them - Just look for gts-t boykit images using google - You need to bring $6500 in cash and wave it in his face, and I'm sure he'll say yes.

Anyone knows a good workshop where I can get this R32 GTR inspected around the Arncliffe area in Sydney? Thanks. :-)

Cool thanks. I'm going to get a mechanic to have the car inspected. Just wondering if anyone can recommend any good mechanics in sydney for this?

You should really take it to a work shop and have it checked out by a qualified mechanic that knows about skylines. But I wouldn't expect it to be in perfect condition being a 7k R32 that has done 150k(possibly more). Unless the turbo has been replaced already. It'll go bang anytime soon now. But when you are personally inspecting a car initially, from the top of my head, you should do. Body - Check uneven panel gaps, which maybe from accident repair. - Check paint on all panels on the body, and stand a few feet away to see if they all match. - Stand a few feet away from the car, and look down the side of the car and check whats in the reflection, if the car has been repaired with bog, you can usually see large wave in the reflection. - Look closely on all panels and see if you can spot any pin size bubbles, which is an indication of poor respray - Look closely on all panels and see if you can spot any LARGE bubbles, or paint lifting up, which is a sign of rust underneath - Lift up top of of the windscreen seal(where it meets the roof) with your finger nail and see if the paint underneath is the same. - Check all wheather strip and see if there are any rips or cracks - Check under the body and see if there are any sign of major rust. Stay away if the bottom has been painted black. Also check if the rail is bent badly or missing and if there are any oil leaks - Check all 4 wheel well with a flash light and see if you can spot any rust, crack. - Check the boot and the spare tyre well and see if you can spot any major rust, small surface rust is ok. - Stick your hand into the side, where the jack goes, and when you touch the bottom, check if it is wet or even has water collected in there. - Check in the engine bay for any sign of repair, such as parts with miss matching color. Interior - Check all air vents - Check rips /wear on the seats in general - Lift up the carpet if possible and see if it is damp - Check seat belts and make sure they work - Check if the dash has lift up. - Check the window electric and make sure they all work. Engine You should get a qualified mechanic to check it out. But in general - Check dip stick and see if the level of the oil is good. - Get compression and leak down test done - Crank the engine when its cold (if possible) and see if it starts easily - Crank the engine when its hot and see if starts easily - Listen to any unusual sound such as rattle - Give the engine a few revs and see if responds nicely - Check exhaust while engine is running and see if there any sign of smoke (do this when the engine is cold and hot) - Drive the car around small road, and high way and see how the engine responds. Transmission and drive line. Auto boxes will be more expansive to repair, so keep that in mind. - Check break and clutch fluid. - Drive the car around and floor it every once in a while and see if the clutch slips. - Test the breaks, and see if they work properly - Put in reverse and see if it works. - Drive it onto the free way and goes at around 100, and see if the steering wheel shakes. - Drive without your hands on the steering wheel for a brieft moment on a flat straight road and see if the car drives straight by itself - Test out all the gears and see if they repond positively - Turn left and right and do a full 3 point turn and see if you can feel any clicking, which happens when the CV joint is on the way out.

Ok, so I went to check out this 94 model 32GTR today. Body seems straight and also looked under the car, wheel well with no major issues I could spot. But in the boot in the spare tyre well, there are a little bit of rust (looks like surface rust). mainly around the edges, and when I lifted up the spare tyre, I can see there is a bit of rust on the rim of the spare tyre (the top most part when it sits face down). So I'm just wondering if this is normal in a GTR? Also, when the engine started (cold start), I can hear a constant clicking sound? Is that engine knock or is it the normal sound? I got the guy to start another GTR and it also has that same clicking sound. Thanks guys

awesome!!.. Thanks turbo_brian

21k for a vspec2.. thats really good!! But I don't think I can wait that long.. lol. cheers guys for the advice, will keep them in mind

Thats the only front bar that looks good on a 32.

Always had a soft spot for the 32GTR, but being a stupid 1st time car buyer, end up impulse bought this 180. So now I'm looking into trading my 180sx and get a 32GTR. Budget is around 20k, but can go a bit more for a cleaner car. So I'm just wondering if I should buy private or go to a dealer, I know buying from a dealer will probabaly cost a bit more, but they offer you some kind of warrenty and also I can just trade my car in. So does anyone know any good realiable dealers in the NSW/Sydney area? Also, any idea how much I can get for my 180 if I trade it in? I know they probabaly rape me in the ass thou. Its a 93 with 128k on the clock, no mechanical faults and a bit of mods and good interior, exterior is not so great with damaged front bar and the paint fading a little. Also anything in particular I should look out for in a 32GTR? Apart from the usual things such as panel gap, noise, smoke out of the exhaust....etc? Much appreciate your help guys.