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no.. you won't be able to drive the car, unless you want to drive in cylinder mode. I belive the spring makes contact with the top o the spark plug. you can probabaly get away with it by using some spring in a ballpoint pen.

Thats pretty much what I've suspected. Thanks for confirming heller44 -) So there you go ppl with air con problems. Check this servo out before doing anything else. The paper can be used as a temp fix, but the best way is obviously re-do those solder joint.

I took the plug off, there is a release tab on the left hand side, so you need to press it a bit and pull at the same time. I took mine off and had a look, it is very clean. Also had a look at the male end on the servo, and seems fine as well. I'm not sure if it is to do with the pins in the plugs not making contact, or somthing like dry solder on the servo end. So far it is working for me with the paper trick, but if it stops working, I'll take the servo apart and have a look. Its going to be 31c today.. hopefully the aircon keeps working

Thanks Rekin for the pics, you're a champ m8 ;-) Mine had the exact problem as you've described. The servo arm dosen't move when I cycle through cold and hot. But when I wiggle the plug while doing that, the servo arm moved. So I tried taping up the wires, pushing the wires upwards, and all sort of other things.... but still have the same issue. Eventually I was able to find a fix, the trick is to apply a slight pressure on the actual plug towards the right (back of the car). There is a rectangular void on the left of the plug and all I did was stuff some paper in there to create that pressure and the problem solved. I was able to get cold air again!! Bloody awesome. Thanks Rekin!

oops.. wrong person. Sorry.. ignore.

Farking hell. I just had quiktrak installed about 3 month ago. Is it possible to convert it to self monitoring? Hey Leon, I had you installed quiktrak in my car about 3 month ago with the immobliser and everything, how much am I looking at to change it over to the self tracking box?

Mine has similar problem. Hot air all the time, no matter what temp I set it, even when I do FC by holding down the cold button. I went into diagnostic mode and all the sensors were fine, so thats not the problem. I thought it might need a regass, but 1 day it did work for no particular reason, so I'm thinking it might be caused by somthing else. Would like to hear other ppl's opinion on this forum. Rekin, can you provide some pic of the bit (blend servo motor) I'm suppose to be checking?

Ar.. cool.. I'll check it out tonight. Cheers for the headsup. :-)

If you look under the gap below the brake master cylinder, its there. Pain in the ass to remove thou. Its better to undo the bottom one 1st, then you pull upwards to remove 1 end, then you can take the other end off using both hands which makes it easier.

The door open light won't go away on my 32 GTR. I've noticed about a month back that the cabin dome light would flicker on and off when I close the door. I have checked both door sensor and they works fine. The boot light turns off when I shut the boot, so thats working too, although I don't think the 32s have a boot sensor? Just wondering if any one else on this forum have experienced this problem? There must be an exposed wire somewhere thats grounding sensors. Anyone knows how does the wiring go? I have a feeling it might be my alarm system.

Dosn't work for me. In fact, when I saw it, my thoughts were..."God the 8 series looks ugly than ever". More curves on a car, dosen't automatically make it any prettier. The DB9/Vanquish looks so much better.

Agreed with above. Owning a GTR. You'll need at least extra 5k just lying around just for emergency type of stuff and general fixes for things that breaks and maintenance if you can't do the work yourself. I currently own a 32GTR since about 3 month ago, and I've already spent about 3k on it and I don't see myself stop spending money on it, just to get it to the way I wanted. The s13 silvia and a 180sx is probabaly a better option for you.

I got some Nankang NS-2's 245/35/17s for $155 each, fitted balanced..etc. Dry performance is quiet good. Wet is average.

Where are you located m8. I don't think I want to send this in the mail.

lol... it holds the emergency flare. When I bought my car, the original flare was still there. It says on it in japanese instructions on how to use the flare and best before 2002. So I put it away and put a torch in those circular clips instead. :-) I was so tempted to try it out.. You want to buy it off me? .. hehehhee

I heard its around 30kg!! Around 2-3% off the weight of the entire car.

Hey Tom, I was in a similar situation as you 3 month ago. I also owned a 180sx previously, then the rego was about to expire, so I got rid of it and got myself a 32GTR. I've looked at at least 5 GTRs and spoke to a number of dealers, sellers before I settled on my current car from a dealer (about 20k near stock, and currently used as a daily). My advice is that you should look for something locally, instead of importing them. For the price range you are looking at, you'll need to look real hard to be able to find anything decent. If you get it locally, you can at least check out the car yourself and hire a 3rd party to have the car inspected so you'll at least have some good idea of what you are actually getting, also you won't have to wait several month for the car to land and complied. I reckon you should budget 25k for a local car, including the insurance, you should be able to find somthing decent. Performance wise, you'll notice straight away how much more torque the RB26 has compared to a 4 banger and it is also a lot smoother to rev. My 180 had 200kw atw, upgraded turbo and tuned...etc etc, so it actually goes a little bit harder than my rather stock GTR (only exhaust done) above 4000rpm. Handling wise, the GTR is able to put the power down better and it is also grippier at the corner if you take it fast. One of the other big plus for the 32GTR is that they look fantastic as is, you don't need to add rice spoilers or change the front bar...etc to make them look good. They are also a lot more practicle getting around the dodgy sydney roads. If you don't lower your car to ridiculous height, the GTR is able to get over pretty much all the high speed bumps and steep driveways...etc For servicing, you SHOULD know or if not, learn how to do most of the minor work youself. i.e. change oil, oil filter, tranny oil, fuel filter, spark plugs, clean afm. It is slightly more crammed in the engine bay for the GTR, but it is not impossible. Change your oil and plugs (copper) every 5000k. You won't get 450km a tank from the GTR, unless you drive highway all the time. If you are like me, travelling to and from work and out and about with mixed highway and suburban/city driving (30/70), you should be looking at around 350km - 400km for a rather stock GTR. If you have powerfc and tuned correctly, you might be able to see a bit more. The GTR has a 72L tank and the 180 has a 65L tank I believe. I get about the same KMs in my 180 as my GTR. So its around 15L - 16L /100KM, not cheap!! Btw, how old are you? 3.3k for full compo insurance seems a bit exy. I'm 26 about to finish my green P and I only pay 1.6k with just car insured to 25k (1k excess). Thats all I can think of now.

$220..?.. That dosen't sound too bad. How long did it took?

Car is a 32GTR... I want everything removed....and with lines rerouted...etc :-) Mainly just wanted to remove the excess weight. Anyone can recommand a good workshop? I Assume CRD can do it?

Anyone know a good workshop in sydney that can do hicas removal and a rough price range. I want the complete system removed and done properly.

I checked the gap before I installed them.. even though I bought them with the -11 in the end. Car is running on stock boost, 94 model with about 75k on the clock, at least thats what the speedo says. I think -11 is ok to use, since my car is not missing or anything. I checked one of the old plugs when I pulled it out, and it was gapped 11 as well.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I resetted the ECU today, tightened my plugs.. change my fuel filter and also found my rear driver side tyre is only at 20psi!!.. so I pumped it up. seems to drive a little bit better, but more or less the same. I figured its probabaly the oil.

I did a lot of research on this forum before I decided to settle on 10w60. It was also the oil suggested on the Castrol website, so I decided to change it. When I was using 5w-30, I find the oil pressure was quiet low, and takes slightly longer to build up the oil pressure. But its a better now with 10w60. Also, the engine was cold when I tested the car, 5w (old oil) vs 10w (new oil) at cold. A difference of 5, will that really make that much difference? I'm just gonna do everything at once tomorrow, tighten plugs, change fuel filter, clean afm, reset ecu...etc and see if that helps. Anyone got vacumn reading on their car at idle? I'm seeing 483 - 493 mmhg, is that good?

Defitnitly not as responsive as before. When I floor it in 1st gear up to about 4500 RPM, I don't feel as much acceleration. I changed my oil to Edge 10w60, I was running Edge 5w-30 before for about 3000k. That wouldn't affect the performance that much will it, even though the new oil is slightly thicker. I'm gonna check my plugs tomorrow, I have a feeling I didn't tighten them enough. Also, gonna clean out the coilpacks and reset the ECU might possibily help as well.

yea.. thats what I figured.. But the new ones I put in should be the correct ones.. arn't they? So I'm thinking maybe the coil pack is starting to show its age.