__PhaseShiftDown

You can get a attessa torque split controller which allows you to switch from 4wd or rwd or even the amount power you want to the front wheel. HKS, Grid and some other brand makes it. There is one 4sale on ebay as well.

These are probabaly the same offset as my current set of rims (5 spoke) racing sparco. Some one post pic of 17 x 10 +15.

yea.. I want to get the 17 x 10 +15, but I don't think 17 x9 +30 will be that bad. But 10 inch maybe too wide for the guards. Whats the standard offset for stock GTR rim btw? I want to get the silver one.

Anyone? Please help, need to decide soon. Rim in question are Project D D1Rs. Also, does anyone have pics of a 32GTR with 17 x 9 + 30 wheels on it? Many Thanks!

Will 17 x 10 + 15 fit both front and rear on a 32GTR? also, what size tyre can I run? 265/40?? 255/40?? Thanks guys!

Genuine Nissans filters are cheap as dirt.. why would you want to settle for anything else. Get it directly from Nissan dealer for ~$12 a piece, get 5 in 1 visit and they'll last you a while. Probabaly the cheapest part you'll ever need to replace on the car.

After a set of Greddy extension pipe. http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/2429/elbows001zk0.jpg Can pick up in Sydney, but willing to pay for postage if shipping is required from interstate. PM me pics and price. Thanks!

I think I've got the same clutch. How much did it cost you to have it rebuilt? Mine is slipping like pig in mud.

It was from http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html About half way down the page.

MINE MINE MINE!!

If they are GTR headlights.. consider it sold. PM me your details and I can come pick up

Wrong section dude. There is a group buy for Blistein shocks in the trade section. I believe they are the best for street. But as a general rule of thumb, if you had to get jap coilovers, make sure you get a softer spring rate 4 the street. 6/5 KG front and 5/4 KG rear is ideal, firm but dosen't shake your teeth out. The absolute highest spring rate for street I would choose would be 8/6.

PM sent about PFC.

Working on my night shift.. And I just woke up from sleeping...

lol.. and why is ppl still posting in this forum at nearly 3AM?

its special xmas price. :-)

LOL!!

How does the juran coilover compare to the stock item? Is it longer or shorter? I can't possibly imagine how you can install a set of coilovers incorrectly, so it is likely those are faulty.

I've pre-ordered mine already. It'll be available mid Jan. :-)

The weight of the oil affects the pressure reading. The quality of the oil also affects the reading slightly. I have the same car (unopened engine with 80k on the clock) and I was using Castrol Edge 5w30 for about 3000k, and noticed the oil pressure is quiet low (sits on 1 sometimes) and increased to 3 when I drive it a bit hard and on highway, but it would fall lowish to ~1 after that. I then switched to the same oil but 10w60 and saw the pressure stays mostly just very slightly above 2, and would climb to just under 4 when driven hard, but it would sometimes, very rarely falls to ~1 after that. Car also feels laggy as well, so I think its not the right weight of oil, even though on the castrol website, it recommended it. So the last oil change, I switched over to Motul 300v 10w40 and found that the oil pressure is a lot stable. On idle and normal driving, it would sit on or just under 2, and climbs just a little bit over 2. When driven hard, it would climb to 3 at the maximum and falls back down to the 2 after that, so the pressure is a lot stable. Car also feels more responsive then when I was on 10w60. After reading all the article on oil base stock and actually seeing the difference myself, I will only ever use 300v in my car now. :-) Btw, I think its better to get a good quality electric oil pressure gauge instead of the mechanical gauge, since I don't particularly like the idea of running hot oil straight into the cabin.

As per subject. Anyone know the part number and $$ for R32 GTR Rear B/C Pillar Upper and Lower Trim? Also after driver side door card, any one knows the part number and $$ for that as well from Nissan?

Location? Model Brand? Pics?

I'm aftering the following item. Will pay good $$ Driver side door card: Must be in mint condition with no scratch, dings or peeling...etc But ding on the speaker grill is ok. Rear RHS and LHS Upper C pillar trim: Must be in mint condition with no scratch, dings or peeling...etc Rear passenger side Lower C pillar trim: Must be in mint condition with no scratch, dings or peeling...etc But cloth pealing is ok. I'm located in Sydney.

After reading all the info on oil base stock. I now only use 300v 10w40. http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...up=Lubrication2 http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...oup=OilAnalysis http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...p=Which%20group? QUOTE ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The API groups oils into five major categories, each with different properties and production methods: Group I: Solvent frozen mineral oil. This is the least processed of all oils on the market today and is typically used in nonautomotive applications, though some of it may find its way into low-cost motor oils. Group II: Hydro-processed and refined mineral oil. This is the most common of all petroleum oils and is the standard component of most petroleum-based automotive and motorcycle engine oils. Group III (now called synthetic): The oils start as standard Group I oils and are processed to remove impurities, resulting in a more heat-stable compound than possible as a standard Group I or II oil. Some examples are Castrol Syntec automotive oil and Motorex Top Speed. These are the lowest cost synthetics to produce, and generally do not perform as well as Group IV or V oils. Group IV: Polyalphaolefin, commonly called PAOs. These are the most common of the full synthetic oils, and usually offer big improvements in heat and overall stability when compared to Group III oils. They are produced in mass quantities and are reasonably inexpensive for full-synthetic oils. Since they are wax-free they offer high viscosity indexes (low temperature pour point) and often require little or no viscosity modifiers. Examples include Amsoil and Motorex Power Synt. Group V: Esters. These oils start their life as plant or animal bases called fatty acids. They are then converted via a chemical reaction into esters or diesters which are then used as base stocks. Esters are polar, which means they act like a magnet and actually cling to metals. This supposedly offers much better protection on metal-to-metal surfaces than conventional PAOs, which do not have this polar effect. These base stock oils also act as a good solvent inside the engine, translating into cleaner operation. Esters are the most expensive to produce, and oils manufactured with them usually cost much more. Due to this higher cost, many companies only fortify their oils with esters. Some examples are Bel-Ray EXS, Torco MPZ Synthetic and Maxum 4 Extra. Motul 300V, however, uses 100 percent ester as its base oil, and is one of the more expensive oils. The grouping of these oils is the source of much controversy. One topic that has been debated is what can be labeled a "full synthetic oil." In 1999, Mobil brought a complaint against Castrol for changing the base oil in its Syntec product. They had used a Group IV PAO, but had changed to a Group III base oil. Mobil contended that Group III oils were not really "synthetic oil" and should not be labeled as such. After many expert opinions were heard, the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau sided with Castrol and said that Group III oils could be labeled synthetic. Since that time there has been a lot of growth in this product type due to its low cost and similar performance to traditional synthetics. Many traditionalists still argue that Group III oils are not true synthetic oils. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It is a bit of a hit and miss really. Check for oil obviously, but that can be easily cleaned up. Check for the condition of the spring, dust boot, rust on the strut top, paint chips, and just a general feel on how old they are. Also check the model, as some of the older model are now dis-continued. Ask the seller if it comes with some sort of warrenty and such.....etc I bought a set of 2nd hand nismo shocks for 600bux + shipping and they are great so far (4 months).