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Alright, just ordered nismo operating cylinder and braided line just in case. Hopefully that'll fix the problem. Thanks heaps for the help Elite Racing, it is much appreciated. :-)

ok.. it seems there are fluid coming out the slave cylinder after I peeled back the dust boot, so am I correct to assume its shagged?

ok.. checked the fluid this morning and it is full. So any idea what it might be causing the problem?

My car seems to have developed a problem tonight with the 2nd gear. Some times it is almost impossible to get it into gear, it does not grind or anything, just feels when you try to change gear when the clutch isn't pushed in. It happens on and off and mainly affects the 2nd gear, but did it once or twice in the 1st as well. When it is good, it changes without any issues, but when it is playing up, its almost impossible to change to 2nd. Could it be the slave? I have yet to check the fluid level. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

I got the Silver D1R 17x10 + 15 on my 32GTR from option3, fits perfect with 255 rubber. My car is slightly lowered, and I was worried that they might scrape the guards, but they cleared it without any issues. I didn't even have to roll them. They are not the lightest rims, but not heavy either, I believe they are about 10KG each. Quality seems to be excellent for the price, so I would recommend them.

SOLD!!

As per topic title. I have a black PSP SLIM with M33 Firmware 4 sale. It is in excellent condition, looks new and comes with 4G memory card and the rest. M33 firmware allows you to run games directly off the memory card, and also allows you to run home brew, emulators...etc Everybody knows what a PSP look like. But if you require pictures of the actual item, just PM me. Thanks. $150 FIRM. Pickup at Sydney CBD or Canterbury NSW. or delivered for an extra $10 express post.

Try recording the sound and post it on youtube or somthing, since its hard to describe a sound in words. Also, why 20w50? is this for track or street? Nissan's specification is 7.5w30 or somthing for street.

Yep, they are extremely well made and tight fit. Jap stuff are great quality.

Sold 2 DiRTgarage. Payment pending. This has to be the fastest sale ever

lol.. that was quick PM me your details.

As per topic, have a R32, R32GTR Centre & Passenger Aircon Vent. In excellent working condition. no cracks or broken fins. Location is Canterbury, NSW 2193. Pick up preferred but can post at buyer's expense. $10 Australia Wide. Passenger $50 Center $60 Or both for $100.

I believe they are the "superior" brand seat cover. I got them on my 32 GTR seats, fits dam nice and looks amazing.

dash for late or early GTR?

Got pics of the front pipe? and inlet/outlet measurement?

Here is mine. HeadUnit: Kenwood DNX7320 Double Din DVD GPS Front: Alpine 6.5" Type R Splits Rear: Alpie 6.5" Type R Coax Sub: Kicker 10" CVT Shallow Mount Amp: JBL 755.6 Grand Touring 6 Channel Amp Wiring: No name 4GA Power, Audiopipe Stinger 16GA Speaker cable, Audiopipe RCA cable. Dynamat Xtreme sound deadening in door, boot and rear B/C pillar. No deadening on floor as I use sound insulation underfelt. Fronts are installed in the stock location with some custom spacers and some trimming of the inner door skin with tweeters mounted on the mirror triangle bit. Rears are installed at stock location. Sub is installed in the spare wheel well.

How about a nice 5 channel unit like the JBL GTO5355? Or a Kicker 5 ch? It'll be easier to install with less wiring. http://www.e-hifi.com.au/jblcar/GrandTouri...es/gto5355.aspx I have an older 6ch JBL amp and it is works very nicely with my kenwood dnx7320, alpine type R splits front, co-ax rear and a kicker shallow mount sub.

Its a little bit difficult, but not that impossible. Are you running the wire from inside the cabin to the door or from the door into the cabin. I personally find the later a bit easier. Going from door into cabin -------------------------------- What you want is a small length of metal cloth hanger wire. Then you tape that to the speaker cable you want to run, so it can poke through the rubber grommet. You may also want to use a little bit of wd40 to coat the speaker cable so it can be pulled through a little bit easier. Then you simply poke the metal wire through the door grommet, then the cabin grommet and try to push it through and catch the other end in the cabin. Going from cabin into door ------------------------------- You will do the same as if you are going from door into cabin, except instead of the speaker cable, you will use a piece of string. Once you caught the string, you will tape that string to the speaker cable, and pull the string to feed the speaker cable through from cabin into door. Make Sense? I hope so. I know for the R32s, it is a little difficult due to the placement of the door grommet. you should bend the metal wire just a little bit, so it is easier to catch.

easiest way is to remove the door skin and take out the old speaker and measure the depth. But I'm quiet sure they'll fit fine. extra 2mm shouldn't be an issue. I have the older model SPR-17S 6.5" splits and they went in fine into a 32GTR. Although I had to make a custom mounting plate and trim the inside of the door skin a little bit to make sure they don't touch the speaker

My current car is a 32GTR and I use it as a daily for about a year now. Its pretty much stock apart from exhaust, nismo coilovers and a few other minor mod for reliability. My way to work is ok most of the time, 60 and 70 zone, no freeway or anything like that and I usually get about 350 - 400 tank depending on my driving style and traffic condition. When traffic is light - moderate, it puts the fun into your trip to and from work, although I'm bored to death of the stock power already. When the traffic is heavy, you wouldn't want to get stuck in it as the frequent stop go + exhaust note will probabaly get on your nerve quickly. Other than that, its a great car to drive. I use to drive a 180sx as my daily, but the GTR is nicer due to the torque. If you want to use it as a daily, defitnitly get some good coilovers like blistein or nismo ones that are not too harsh, get a good clutch (nismo or jim berry) and upgrade the brake pads, get the suspension checked out for any worn bushes...etc. Best to have hicas removed as well as that can cause unpredictable steering at higher speed. Oh, and make sure you have some sort of cd/radio that works. I drove my car with a japanese radio and 1 working front speaker (no rear spakers) for ages and I finally just recently done my system. Much better now with the doof doof. :-)

I have exactly the same can. What size K&N filter did you put on there? Got the part number? Thanks.

If you are want to vent to the atomosphere. You put the breather (air filter) onto the other inlet on the oil catch can. So if you have 2 inlet on your catch can, one inlet goes to the engine, then attach a filter on the other inlet. If you have a rb25. Check the thread below and it should answer your question. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...h+can&st=20

Is there any disadvantage for venting to the atomosphere? Apart from the fact that if there are a lot of oil, then it won't return back to the sump? Also, wouldn't doing the above basically introduce a vacuum leak into the system??

I have one of those, but I haven't got around to mounting it because I wasn't 100% how to mount it correctly. Since we are on the topic, is this the correct way to do it for a "vent to atomosphere" setup? Also, what are other benefits or cons, if any for running a catch can apart from reducing the amount of oil going into the intake?

I got yellowjacket in my 32GTR for about 3 weeks now. Haven't had a issue with them. I'm running standard boost and gapped at 11. So far they seems to be a cheaper alternative to splitfire.