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assuming it is similar to the 32 headlight. And I think it should be. You can put it in the oven (seriously). What I did when I had to open my headlight was. - Put aluminum foil in tray/grill - Pre-heat the oven to 180c (without the headlight in it) - TURN OVERN OFF - Place headlight in the tray for approximately 5 mins - The sealant should be soft enough for you to open up the headlight using a screw driver. Now, there is probabaly some clips holding the over on the outside, so be sure to remove those 1st before you put in the oven. Also besure to remove all the wire and globe...etc

I never liked the new Z and this one is no exception. The 2 extra spiky bits on the front intake looks like dracula teech

might be your AFM. Is your car tuned properly?

Are you talking about making the actual light ray blue or are you talking about when the headlight is off and the bulb makes the headlight looks a bit blue? - For normal halogen, I don't think you can get them to produce blue light. Unless, if they are really tinted blue. - You could get blue parkers (leds) which will make your headlight looks a little bit blue when the headlight is on (ebay) - If you get the normal halogen bulbs with the blue film over the bulb, the reflectors will make your headlight appear slightly blue when the lights is off. The film is there to make the light whiter. (Any autoshop, or ebay)

ok.. is the Just Jap ones 2.5 to 3.5? or just 2.5 to 3? Any other brand/model thats 2.5 to 3.5?

Chasing 300 rwkw minimum, 350 max is what I have in mind since its still stock bottom end.

I bought myself a set of HPI dumps for 32GTR and the outlet hole is about 2.8 inch (~ 73mm). So I'm just wondering what would a suitable front pipe to suit? I've seen a few 2.5" to 3" ones. Or are there any 3 inch to 3.5" ??

my work place is similar. We've got here.. 32GTR (mine) 2dr 34GTT 4dr 34GTT Soarer S15 x 2 WRX WRX STI Evo 5 AE86 Thats all the ones I've seen on a regular basis. :-)

strip it for parts. you'll get more 4 it.

offset? and some pics do not work.

I want to disable the parker when the normal headlight is on, so i want to see if I can disable it via the switch.

Seems like its somthing simple that just got overlooked since you provided the AFM and they just assumed that it is a working one. I've been to Bel once to get my 100k service done. Walked in with my parts in the morning and walked out in the afternoon all done. Rates were fixed in my case and there were no surprises. I'm thinking taking my car there to get some mods done, but I would definitly ask for a fixed price if possible. Not just for bel, but for any workshop, but thats probabaly a hard ask especially there is troubleshooting involved.

Can't open it. Could you send it in jpg or similar format? I do have the service manual, and which page is this diagram on?

Anyone knows which page of the service manual shows the circuit diagram for the headlight switch for a 32GTR? It would be handy if some one could post it here?

I'll take the cams PM sent

bump

Brand new 350mm nardi style steering wheel $85 posted, or $70 pick up in sydney.

Drove the car today and it was fine. So its not a blocked cat. I'm leaning towards the AFMs, plugs or coils. Fuel issue is a possibilities, but I've only just replaced the fuel pump recently. Anyway.. the problem has gone away for the time being. Going to service my car on monday and see how it goes.

Drove my car today and it feels laggy between 2500rpm to about 3000rpm, when I put my foot down, it feels like there is a flat spot, then it suddenly picks up and revs fine until just over 4000, and I get this "pu pu pu pu" sound coming out of my exhaust in very quick succession, kinda like the sound when you fart. and the car hesitate a little bit, then continues to rev. I'm think it maybe a blocked cat?? or dirty AFM?? But I only just replaced the cat to a new catco ceremic high flow one like 1 month ago. I recently also change the panel filter to a high flowed pipercross one. I still run the stock ecu and the car is basically stock. Could the panel filter cause the car to run extra rich and stuff up the cat? Any one experienced anything similar or have an idea of what it might be?

Any cracks or anything? If no, I'll take them. PM Sent

Depends on how much your wallet allows really. But I wouldn't go for turbolite 4100 stuff, go for 8100 (group IV)

~230rwkw is my guess.

Or you can just get a bolt on high flow catco cat from justjap with flanges. The cheaper one is ceremic core, but should be fine for 300kw. But if you have the money, upgrade to metal core like the metalcat or the catco metal core high flows.

He said he's running normal boost of 10 PSI, so there is really no need to gap the plug to .8. Only when you are running higher boost and getting misfire, then you should gap it smaller. My 32GTR is running stock boost and stock coilpack and runs 1.1mm gap no problem. You should always run the biggest gap possible since that will provide you with a stronger spark and hence cleaner burn. It is possible it is caused by coil pack. Do you tighten down the plugs to the correct torque?

1. Just save the money 4 now and your decision on which car to get may change by the time you coming out of your Ps. But nothing wrong with the r32 as a 1st car. They are cheap and fun car to drive. Although not the cheapest on petrol. 2. You just have to take your time when you look 4 one. Check out half a dozen should give you a good idea of what's a good and whats not. Preferably, you should bring someone knowledgable about skylines with you. And if you are able to find one that you want to buy, be sure to get it checked out by a professional 3rd party to make sure it is not a lemon. 3. My 1st car was a 180sx, and my current and 2nd car is a 32GTR. Its a love/hate relationship. I love how they drive, but hate it how they suck my wallet dry.