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you shouldn't have it. just replace it and see if you notice any improvement. You can reset the ECU if you want.. just to be safe.

could be AFM. Mine was doing the same, replaced the AFM and it went away.

how did you car ran before the change? Did it seem normal to drive? Much many Ks are you getting per tank? Maybe I should change mine as well.

You mean you have a spare din not in use? Just get a single din pocket and put it in there. Most audio shops like Ryda stocks them. Does not has to be nissan.

I don't own a 33, but I did my system in my 32GTR and its a pretty descent setup. I think most of the headunit can drive about 50w each channel (4 speakers). Cheapest and quickest option would be to get any name brand headunit with USB MP3...etc and wire it up using the stock wiring. You should be able to just use the factory wiring and the HU can drive the front and rear no problem. Then get dynamat extreme and deaden both doors and the rear passenger area (under the B/C pillar trim). The only complicated part would be to make the speaker adaptor for the doors. To go a bit better, get a descent HU with at least 2v RCA pre-out for front, rear and sub, for future proofing. If you want to get an external amp (a descent one), which you might as well do everything else and install a sub. Hunt around eBay and the FS section in this forum, some of the used sound gear come up cheap and you'll save a bit of money going 2nd hand.

I just bought a kenwood DNX-7320 GPS DVD unit from Ryda. And it works really well. It is now the older model, 7340 is the newer model, but the 7320 is still nice.

CV joint??

Could be an air leak somewhere. Get a can of carby cleaner and spray around the intake plenum, trottle body...etc if the engine picks up rev, u've got an air leak there. My gtr had a similar problem and it turned out to be the throttle body gasket.

I literally LOL'd when I saw it.

Finished my audio install yesterday. I end up installing the xover (an older alpine type R) into the driver side kick panel and inside the trim next to the glove box on the passenger side :-)

Had a 4 channel boss amp before and it was crap. As above, buy somthing half decent, like pioneer or kenwood if you don't want to spend too much.

As per topic. Any one knows where is a good place to mount a crossover in a R32 GTR (driver side and passenger side)? Pics would be great. :-)

you can always cut it off.

high idle is probabaly caused by air leak somwhere, split vac line or bad gasket. Get a can of carby cleaner and spray it around the engine bay, especially around the intake planum, around the injectors, throttle body....etc. If there is an air leak around that area, the engine will pick up rev. And yes, check the AFM.

I'm after a stock 32gtr intercooler. Cheap as possible, some damage to the core is ok, but the end tank and mounts must be intact.

shotgun clear cam cover

Looking for a front pipe to suit 32GTR. 2.5" inlet merged into 3.5" outlet. PM me brand/model, price and location. I can pick up anywhere in sydney or will pay postage to ship from interstates. Thanks.

BOTH SOLD!

misfire and detonating is 2 different thing. Does it stutter or runs, idle badly when you put your foot down? When you say low oil pressure, how low are we talking about? Oil pressure suppose to drop when the car is warm'd up. Does the warning light come on? I would clean and check the AFM, coil pack 1st, then air leak. It could also be a air leak somwhere causing it to run rough. Really need more details m8, it could be a combination of a number of things.

Are you going to convert the interior as well or leaving it stock 32 interior.

There are 2 screw at the back of the headlight sticking out, and you can adjust where the projector is pointing by those.

The following are for sale. I'm located in Sydney, so pick up is preferred. If you want them shipped interstate, you will need to organise shipping and pay all shipping + packing charges. Racing Sparco 5 Spoke Alloy wheels (17 x 9 +20 & made in japan) with Nankang NS2 245/40/R17. 2 tires have about 50% thread left and the other 2 pretty much needs to be replaced, but still can be used temporary. The wheels have some dish and are in decent condition, there are some small gutter rashes around 3 of the wheels and 1 deep one on the 4th, but they do not affect the integrity of the wheel. They came with my car, and I've been using them for over a year and I have no issues with them what so ever. I have now changed to a different set of wheels with more dish so these has to go. Judging by the width and the offset, they should be able to fit GTST as well, but you will need to work it out yourself. Note: the brown stuff on the back of the wheel is not rust, just dirty. PRICE: $500 Pickup FIRM!! ============================================================ HKS R32 GTR Struts (I believe they are Hypermax, but not 100%). They came with my car and appears to be in excellent condition, no leaks or anything. I'm unsure about the spring rate, but they are most likely around the 10kg mark. The are adjustable height and damping rate, and no, I do not have the c spanner for adjusting the ring. PRICE: $100 Pickup FIRM!!

Currently, my boost controller (vac source) is T'd into the vacumn line beneath the fuel reg (pink line), and it does not read vacuum on idle, it reads zero. When I put my foot down, it will read vac for a little bit, then builds boost as normal. My stock boost gauge on the other hand reads vac on idle, sits above 7 on the stock boost gauge and goes up normal when I put my foot down. I use to have my vac source T'd from the fuel reg line (and it reads the same as the boost gauge), but my understanding was thats its not the best place to T into, although I've been driving around like that for a while and car was running fine. Last week my engine developed an air leak from the throttle body, so I took the car to Bel Garage to have them fix it up and I also asked them to fix up the vacuum line. When I got the car back, I can see that they T'd the vac source from that line below the fuel reg line and it does not read vac anymore on idle. Car runs fine. In either case, you should definitly get vac reading on your stock boost gauge when car is on idle. When you put your foot down, the gauage should move up to neutural then build positive boost pressure. If you don't get any vac reading or boost reading on your stock boost gauge, replace the vac line that goes to the sender.

Oops. Car is a 32GTR. The EBC is a HKS evc3 and the reading that I usually get is 480mmhg (9.2psi), but now it is sitting at around 420mmhg (8.1psi) if that helps. The car idles at around 1100, which is pretty much what I get usually, but it vibrates a bit and it seems to be using more fuel as well. When I floor it, it feels tiny little bit sluggish, but overall drives fine when boost comes on.

My car started to idle rough yesterday, a bit lumpy and shakes a little bit. Saw on the EBC my vac reading is a bit low, so I figured there's a vacuum leak somewhere. I sprayed some carby cleaner around the engine and the leak seems to be coming from back of the engine somewhere near the firewall on the driver side (revs picks up). Its not the vac line that goes to the stock boost gauge sender. Is there any other vacuum line around the back some where? What else could it be?