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Nothing wrong with Autometre. Just make sure you get the sportscomp line or better as they are more accurate. Do not get mechanical oil pressure gauge as that is illegal and can be dangerous running oil pipe into the cabin

Just checked my old pump. It's got the same part number on it as well and also the Nissan logo. So thats defitnitly a stock pump. Get your money back m8. Also PM me details of the member who sold it to you.

The fact that it has the Nissan logo on it, I highly doubt it is a nismo pump. Nismo BNR32 Fuel Pump Part No should be 17042-RR581

Is there anyway to check in PFC?

Anyone? Should I just plug them into the standard ECU and see if the car coughs and splatters?

Be aware that most oil on the market advertised as "Synthetic" are not 100% synthetic. They are still hydrocracked group III base stock that are highly refined. You want group 4 POA base stock (Mobile 1) or Group 5 Ester based stock (300v) oil that are 100% synthetic. But most ppl tends to agree that if you change oil every 5000km or less, it dosn't really matter which oil you use as long as they are not mineral oil. Most Group 3 oil are pretty close to the quality of Group 4's anyway, so it really depends on your budget. I personally only use 300v. I believe that the higher the difference in ratio between the cold/hot weight, the greater the amount of viscosity modifier in the oil and less base stock. So 10w40 has a ratio of 1 to 4, where 5w30 has a ratio of 1 to 6. 10w40 will offer better protection. I've posted this already in the oil oil thread, but I'll post it here again. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...up=Lubrication2 http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...oup=OilAnalysis http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...p=Which%20group? QUOTE ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The API groups oils into five major categories, each with different properties and production methods: Group I: Solvent frozen mineral oil. This is the least processed of all oils on the market today and is typically used in nonautomotive applications, though some of it may find its way into low-cost motor oils. Group II: Hydro-processed and refined mineral oil. This is the most common of all petroleum oils and is the standard component of most petroleum-based automotive and motorcycle engine oils. Group III (now called synthetic): The oils start as standard Group I oils and are processed to remove impurities, resulting in a more heat-stable compound than possible as a standard Group I or II oil. Some examples are Castrol Syntec automotive oil and Motorex Top Speed. These are the lowest cost synthetics to produce, and generally do not perform as well as Group IV or V oils. Group IV: Polyalphaolefin, commonly called PAOs. These are the most common of the full synthetic oils, and usually offer big improvements in heat and overall stability when compared to Group III oils. They are produced in mass quantities and are reasonably inexpensive for full-synthetic oils. Since they are wax-free they offer high viscosity indexes (low temperature pour point) and often require little or no viscosity modifiers. Examples include Amsoil and Motorex Power Synt. Group V: Esters. These oils start their life as plant or animal bases called fatty acids. They are then converted via a chemical reaction into esters or diesters which are then used as base stocks. Esters are polar, which means they act like a magnet and actually cling to metals. This supposedly offers much better protection on metal-to-metal surfaces than conventional PAOs, which do not have this polar effect. These base stock oils also act as a good solvent inside the engine, translating into cleaner operation. Esters are the most expensive to produce, and oils manufactured with them usually cost much more. Due to this higher cost, many companies only fortify their oils with esters. Some examples are Bel-Ray EXS, Torco MPZ Synthetic and Maxum 4 Extra. Motul 300V, however, uses 100 percent ester as its base oil, and is one of the more expensive oils. The grouping of these oils is the source of much controversy. One topic that has been debated is what can be labeled a "full synthetic oil." In 1999, Mobil brought a complaint against Castrol for changing the base oil in its Syntec product. They had used a Group IV PAO, but had changed to a Group III base oil. Mobil contended that Group III oils were not really "synthetic oil" and should not be labeled as such. After many expert opinions were heard, the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau sided with Castrol and said that Group III oils could be labeled synthetic. Since that time there has been a lot of growth in this product type due to its low cost and similar performance to traditional synthetics. Many traditionalists still argue that Group III oils are not true synthetic oils.

Nope.. nothing on the body at all. But I'm not that surprised anyway, since a lot nismo parts comes without the nismo logo on them. Yep, nismo AFM are 65mm same size as stock AFM.

So I bought a set of Nismo AFMs from a member of this forum. They arrived without any part number sticker on them. I asked him about it and he claims that they arrived like that and have been checked by the EFI guys and "scaling is spot on for nismo AFM's". I'm thinking, who in the right mind would want to remove the part number stickers? So is there any other way to check them, such as physically or in PFC to make sure they are actually Nismos? I know the stock AFMs that came with early 32GTRs have nissan logo on them, but my current stockies in my car does not have the nissan logo, but they do have the sticker to show they are "J70" stock AFMs.

Awesome!! Thanks for the feedback guys :-) Looks cam gear it is.

Works well as in what way? More power? More response? Ok, so I can see a good set of cam gear (Trust Greddy /OS is going to set me back ~$550. Hks ones can be had for just over $400.

Is the flying performance ones any good? I mean they are cheap, any one have any experience with them? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ADJUSTABLE-CAM-GEAR...A1%7C240%3A1318 I've had my timing belt changed just about 3 month ago, so thats taken care of.

ok, thats inline with what I was able to gather so far from pervious posts in this forum. which brand of cam gear should I get thats reasonably priced and good quality?

Just wondering whether it is worth it to get poncam when upgrading a Rb26 (stock internal) to 300 - 330rwkw. Or should I get some cam gear instead? Will the cams make any noticable differences? Such as bringing the boost on earlier...etc? I've got the following parts already. - Nismo fuel pump - High flow cat + HKS exhaust - EBC - 700cc injectors - Power FC - Nismo AFM I still need to get the turbo and dumps + front pipe. Turbo will be either 2860 -7 or -5, I haven't decided on that yet.

N1 takes H4. Are you talking about the normal driving light? or the fog light?

I've got half of the photos already, but I manage to somehow damage one of the light while trying to shove it into the housing. So I'm waiting on the new set of lights :-( Will post the entire "how to" including pics of it installed on my car and links to get the necessary parts.

If you are talking about the GTRs, most engine parts are interchangable, since they all uses pretty much the same engine component. But suspension wise, I dont think that would be the case. R34 coilover will not fit in a R32

ok.. so tested the sensor. How about the fuel pump and fuel reg? Or even the fuel filter.

+1 for Bel Garage. Only went there once to get 100,000k service done (timing belt, water pump, idler tensioner, thermostat, flush radiator). I bought all the parts, and they did it all for $500 in 1 day.

Have a PSP Slim with M33 firmware for sale. It is black and in excellent condition. Comes with leather case and clear crystal case and 8GB memory stick. M33 firmware allows you to load games off the memory stick and run emulators....etc Also, it comes with pandora battery bundled and a extra 2GB memory stick, which can be used for flashing the PSP firmware. Take the lot for $230. I'm located in Sydney. But can post australia wide for $20.

Here is my version of the conversion and it is not a difficult mod at all with the right parts :-) Tutorial is on the way as soon as I can source a 2nd matching head light.

One way of doing it would be to source a rear bar and cut out the "skyline" bit, then start from there. Just to give you an idea, there was a option add on from Nissan for the R32 to have lit up rear panel.

I think the 17 x 10 +15 should be fine with 255/40 rubber on them. I read a post on GTR UK and this guy had a 18 x 10 +12 or somthing and it fits fine. Anyway, I'm gonna take my car there next week and they'll trail fit them for me.

woohoo.. sold 2 me :-)

I'll take them if they are direct drop in without any mods!!

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