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Similar experience, while on my way home, felt the clutch wasn't right, then it wouldn't pop out. So I had to stop on the side of the road and call my old man, he came and pull the clutch pedal out. So I drove for another 10 mins and pedal became light as a feather and just won't do anything. Luckily I was about 5 mins from home, so I just parked on the side of the road and drove home with my old man. The next morning we came back and found that the clutch fluid were all gone, turned out to be a leak in the clutch line. So we had to top up the fluid and bleed the system on the side of the road, after about an hour of mucking around, I was finally able to limp it home.

From memory. - Remove front grill. - You will see 2 or 3 plastic screws/clips, remove them. - Remove side indicators, and remove another set of screws - 2 or more screws underneath the front intercooler opening. - 1 more screw on both side of the car where the front bar bolts onto the side fenders (wheel arch). - Jack up the car and remove both both brake duct (should be 6 screws each side) - Then remove a bunch of screws along the front lip I believe thats should be it. You can check the 32GTR service manual for a better illustration.

Anyone?

Hi Guys, After all 4 stock strut tops for a 32GTR. Just the tops, not the full suspension. Thanks. I'm located in Sydney.

Car is a 32GTR. I suppose 6/5 is alright also.

The ones on nengun comes with 5kg/4kg spring rate. Isn't that a good rate for australian road?

So I'm going to get a new set of coilovers for my 32GTR next week, but I'm just wondering what are ppl's thoughts on spring rate for a street driven car. I've already done heaps of searching and research on this forum and on the net. I've been offered a good price on a set of Tein with 6KG front and 5KG rear. But also a set of GReddy with 8KG front and 6KG rear. I know adjusting the damping will only soften the ride very slightly, as the "hashness" comes primarily from the spring rate. I have no idea what my current spring rate are, but the car is an absolute pig to drive on parramatta road in sydney, jumps around all over the place. - So should I go 8/6 or 6/5? - What are ppl running atm? - What is the stock spring rate on a 32GTR?

So I'm going to get a set of Tein SS (5kg/4kg) next week. Just wondering if I should order from Nengun (about $1560 AUD delivered), or look for dealers locally that might be able to see the aussie spec ones for around the same price? Anyone knows where is the cheapest place? I live in NSW, Thanks.

Front bar looks ok. But I still think the stock front bar looks the best. 32 is one of few cars that actually looks good without any kind of cosmetic styling. :-) The others being the 34 z-tune, 22b wrx

can you take some pic of the interior. Interested in the whole lot if they are in decent condition.

you have PM!!

Car is a 32GTR. Just wondering if anyone can give me some idea on what this rattle might be. I've already searched, but nothing seems to describe my symptom accurately. The rattle sounds is a bit like when you leave your mobile phone on a hard wooden table and it vibrates, but with a more metallic sound. - Does not seems to happen when I free rev the motor (i.e. gear in neutral) or at idle. - Happens on and off, but occurs 80% of the time. - Happens between 1000rpm - 2000rpm, but usually at around 1700rpm. - Only happens for like 1 second, 2 seconds max. - Seems to happen when motor is under load and in most cases, when the car is just going from standing still. So to put it into a typical scenario: I've stopped at the traffic light, car idling fine at around 1000rpm, light turns green and I take off nice and easy, rev hits about 1700rpm and the rattle comes on for a brief second, then goes away when the car hits 2000rpm. The thing is, if I take off faster by reving the engine harder, then it either does not rattle or maybe it does, but happens too fast and I don't hear it. Based on info that I found on this forums and the others, it seems that this could be an indication of either - Engine pinging - Exhaust manifold shield rattle - Early signs of spun big end bearing - Turbo shaft play What do you guys think? Any similar experiences or anyone knows what it might be?

I got the black carbon look seat cover.

Ok. Took some quick pics this morning. They looks twice as nice in person

awesome!. Thanks for the input guys. Its not so much mounting the crossover that bothers me, rather positioning the tweeters so they can produce overall package. Being down that road in my previous car, but didn't really sound good with tweeters mounted on the door.

Currently I have no audio in my car, so going to install a new system in the next a few weeks or so, but I've got a few questions. 1. What is the stock front speaker size in a 32GTR? And what is the biggest size I can install without stuffing around too much. 2. Going to install coaxial front and rear, since I couldn't be bothered drilling hole for splits and mounting the cross over. So what is the best 2 way coaxial on the market money can buy?

If you only just got the car and the place you bought it from haven't serviced it before they sold it to you. Defitnitly change the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter. Clean the AFM using non-lubricating contact cleaner (buy from jaycar) and also replace your O2 sensor. When I got my 32, it came with new air filter and oil and oil filter...etc. But they didn't change the fuel filter, after I replaced it, the car feels a lot more responsive and willing, the fuel economy improved a bit as well. So defitnitly replace the fuel filter as well.

Got the Black Carbon Look Seatcover (front and rear set) and the centre consle carbon fibre cover this morning. Went to my gf's place and put on back seat cover, but she dosen't have a socket set, so I couldn't do the front seats. :-( Those seat cover looking f*cking insane!! Well worth the money. The centre console cover looks good when you stand slightly far away from it, but I'm not 100% in love with the pattern, but still looks nicer than stock nevertheless. I'll take some pics in the next a few days. So far, I'm very happy with them :-) Total cost for the seat covers and console cover was around $900 something AUD shipped via EMS.

Does it come with aftermarket ECU? My old 180sx does that, because the pfc tune was too rich. My 32GTR, stock with just a exhaust makes 400km a tank, around 15L/100km. Thats with mixed highway and street driving. Check/Change/Clean your air filter, fuel filter, O2 sensor, AFM and you should see economy improve slightly.

Any automotive paint supply shop should be able to mix the paint for you if you give them your paint code. And no, covering up the rust won't make it go away. If its deep rust, you need to grind the rust out. If its surface, you can get off the shelf rust treatment.

Great Idea. But could you post up a rought electric diagram?

After getting my 94 32GTR, I found out that the tail light leaked just as bad as my previous 180sx. So it seems like a common problem with Nissan's thats getting to or over already over the 15 yr old mark. Its been raining the last a few days and my boot is already starting to collect puddles of water. So this morning I decided to seal them off properly. I made this tutorial with the intention to guide people step by step through the sealing process. This applies to the R32, and 180sx as both have the rear tail light sealed with butyl sealant from factory (possibly for other nissans as well). The sealant dissapears over time and this is when water starts to seep through. You'll know water is getting into the boot when the boot carpet become damp, or you find puddles of water collecting on top of the tail light housing, in the spare wheel well, and also behind both rear quater panel (where the car jack sits). If you find a lot of water collecting in there, there is usually a rubber drain plug that you can undo to let the water out. To test wheather your tail light is leaking, simply pour some water around the gaps all around the tail light and use a flash light to see if its leaking through. Ok, so lets get started. Please note that I take no responsibility if you mess things up. I recommend that you undo most of the boot trim, take out the carpet and spare wheel and everything that might intefere, so you don't have things get in the way. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The product that I use is called Sika Lastomer 710 Butyle Sealant. Comes in 310ml catridges to use with a chalking gun. It looks and feels pretty much the same as the OEM sealant, so it should be the correct product to use. There is also a 711, which is high solid, I wasn't sure if thats any different (maybe harder?). But as far as I can tell, 710 should be fine. DO NOT use any kind of hard setting sealant such as silicon bathroom sealant and such. One is that the water sealing property is not as good as the butyl counterpart, in addition, they are not resistant to vibration and expansion and will eventually fail. You might need to hunt around for this product as they are not usually available in hardware stores. I had to order mine over the net, but I heard that irrigatino shop stocks them. Sika®Lastomer-710 SikaLastomer-710 is a butyl rubber based sealant, for general use in joint sealing. The sealant does not harden, therefore permitting if necessary, eventual dismantling of elements joined with SikaLastomer-710. SikaLastomer-710 adheres to a large variety of materials without the use of any primer, including glass, aluminium, wood, metal, rubber, plastics etc. Service Conditions: -20c to +80c Tools Required Sika Lastomer-710 Paint Thinner Phillip head screw driver Large flat head screw driver Razer blade 8mm socket wrench or shifter I've high lighted below the area which the water is allowed to seeps through. Now, undo the 4 nut that secures the tail light and unplug the tail light. Once you have done so, you want take the tail light out (easier said than done since the sealant holds the tail light on pretty strong). So what I did was, working form the inside towards the out side of the light, try push the tail light outwards from the inside. It might feel that it is not moving, but keep at it and it will come out eventually (see below). Once you get to this stage, you want to start to push outwards in the middle of the light(still fron the inside). And once the middle of the tail light comes loose, the rest should be fairly easy. As you can see in the picture, only half of the tail light still has sealant on it, and the other half has nothing to stop the water from coming in. And another illustration with the tail light off. And on the actual tail light Once the tail light has come off, you want to save those rubber rings as they will be reused when you are putting the light back on. Now comes the fun part! Getting the old seal off can be a nightmare. They are very sticky and sticks onto everything. So the technique that I used was, to use a large flat head screw driver and use the "shovel" motion. So I dig in, as close to the metal as possible, push foward, and flip over the screw driver to make the the sealant stick together. Repeating the process will see the old sealant "snow balls" together By this stage, you should have most of the old sealant off. So now just use any old rag with same paint thinner and rub the rest of the sealant off. You will find that the sealant will come off fairly easily. One important thing to look out for is you want to make sure you get ALL of the old stuff off. I test this by running my finger all the way around the outside and the inside the tail light hold and by the end if there are some black stuff stuck to your finger, you'll need to clean it some more. The end result after the clean The next step is to clean the old sealant off the tail light. The process is exactly the same as before, except you don't have to clean off all the old sealant using paint thinner, just remove as much of it as possible, but MAKE SURE whats left behind is clean So after all that, you are now ready to apply the new sealant. Cut a large 45 degree on the cartridge tip, because you want to apply a nice thick bead of sealant. Take it nice and slow and apply an evenand consistant bead of sealant all the way around where the old sealant goes. Also go around the area where the thread is. Repeat the same process around the tail light hole, but there is no need to put as much on. Once thats done, you can now carefully put the tail light back on and tighten the nuts. If all went well, you should see the fresh sealant making a nice seal around gap. The sealant works pretty much straight away, but leave it for 24 hours and test it with a hose and your m8 in the boot

nice!

Should be the same.

z387. Fits GTR as well.