rice boy

good luck..when are you doing this??. let me know how you go. do you know what you car running right now?? have you to a auto or manual?? I'm going to Singapore the end of this months, hopeful I can get SAFC 2, Blow of valves and any thing esle I could get a hold on. If not then I'll start spending when I get back.... can't wait.

Yes, I was thinking of Hiflow the standard Turbo, (as I got the above quote form TurboTech in Guilford) its bit expensive though,,,, coz I can get a full Garrett for less that 2k. of course I have to fit it myself. Yes I was thinking about the auto if it can handle more 250, as I don't really want to go pass 250rwkw,... it starting to question about reliability and a everyday car. plus the misses had claim it her family car... at the moment I'm still hesitant of installing a after market computer, but it look like I got no choice. by the way I re-set my ECU the other day, and my car run sweet, no more flat curve power all the way to 6500rpm... and I'm loving it. I sure it will be more than 170rwkw….

I got told that HyperDrive in Malaga can do this. How much horse power will this produce? Don't take this the wrong way (HyperDrive staffs & mates) but I got told that on some Dyno the reading could be 40rwkw out.

I like what your saying satanic, where can I get this done? If your figures is right I want to do it now.

hello people, if this topic is already post please let me know and show me the light. Right now I got a R34 GTt, FMIC, pod, 3" to 3 1/4"exhaust system all the way, manual boost controller at ~0.9bar and a oil catch can. At the last Dyno @ Hyper Drive I got the reading of 170kwrw with standard boost. I now have some money to spend and I want my sedan to put out 200 to 220 kwrw. (reason? Well I want it to be reliable and a very day car and I don’t want too much mods eg. Fuel injection upgrade….) at the moment I'm thinking of getting a SAFC NEO or just SAFC 1 or 2 and if I have to high flow the standard turbo I will, apparently it going to cost about $2500-$2700. or even get a new turbo. I'm not sure what is the best option and if this is the best step to take. Please give me some advice. by the way do anyone know the part number or brand my standard turbo is? cheers.

to be honest, it hard to judge unless there someone actually done some experiment on it. theory is all good and I do appreciate everyone opinions. by the way had anyone read about it or had converted the standard 25det plenum or any cross over plenum to non cross over? I, myself witness my mate did it to his Mk3 Supra but he also did few other mods as well so we couldn’t really judge if the cross over had makes any difference. But I think I can work it out if we will pull all the paper works out and investigate. it that is if he still got all of the paper work.

well actually for me it at less 3 foots. the way I see it .....less volume=easier compression=less stress on the turbo.. =cooler air= better preformance.

Yes, I want the after market one. less piping and cooler induction.

I'm thinking of getting one has anyone got any recommendation? how much will it cost to install, is it hard DIY ? apparently you can get a non branded for about $300-600.

Hey, good to see you are doing what you love, Kermit. I'll give you a call sometime this weekend.

My mate manage Beaurepair in Melville, call in and ask for Yang, he will give you the best deal available. I wouldn't recommend any one esle in Perth, not because I know him but because he know his stuff. go and just ask for a quote, doesn't hurt.

sound interesting matety.. what year was it publish.?? full reference on R34?

I got 172kwrw, with ali china FMIC, cat, 3" dump & exhaust, pod and very thing esle is standard eg. turbo boost.... looking to buy a boost controller & AFC. hoping for 280-300 rwhp (209-225 rwkw)

is the SAFC is the only mod in your car?, no pod or exhaust??

yep. I totally agreed got my car back on Friday last week. Ali piping,; the pipe touch the bonnet & I got about 5mm clearest form the fan, but then I wrap the top pipe so now it just touch the fan. So there is a bit of burr fur. Doesn’t look so good, but I believe it help keeping the heat away form the pipe.

no problem with the money. just need to know which one is better.

Need some help to decide what to get. What material is better for intercooler pipe work? Aluminium or ss. Keeping in mind that ss is heavier, may look better (to some). Resistant to heat better than ali. ali; lighter, more expensive, temperature sensitive. Keeping in mind that keeping cool air into the engine is important, and at the same time weight play an important part in as well

some good pics comparison on R34GTR & R34GTt http://www.aya.or.jp/~tko/bnr34er34.html

what did they do to your car and how much?

my R34 Gtt auto, all stock; do about 420Km out of 65L, on local driving. using premium unleaded. will try bp 98 this week and see if there is any difference.

I would search on google "number plate" or "funny number plate". there is some interest one in there. like X35 IARO get some thing that is funny.

triple.

Hey guys I need some help / direct for my 1st stage mod. (dump pipe, front half exhaust, intercooler & pods) best price so far, Imports 101 for ~$ 1,600.00 anyone have spare or second? or any one can direct me to a existing thread on this topic?

No prob. cheers.

uP GRADE.. EXAMPLE AND SUGGESTION You need to start with a solid platform before trying to build power. First you need to make sure the vehicle is in good running condition before ever going out and modifying it. You need to do a tune up to help ensure the vehicle will run correctly. Spark Plugs. Recommended are NGK Iridium plugs, NGK Racing plugs, DENSO Iridium plugs, TRUST Racing plug Iridium, APEX Racing plug Iridium, HKS SUPER FIRE Iridium plugs... Oil Change /Filter change. Keep her happy. We use Valvoline Synpower, Royal Purple, Neo6, 76 Racing, Mobil 1, 5w/50, 15/50w, 10W/40 or 10/30w full synthetic. We have found 76 Racing to be the best, keeping temp & pressure very healthy. Oil Filter - OEM 15208-60U00, PH3682, OEM(R34) 15208-9E000. 76 High Performance Synthetic Engine Oils. SAE10W-30 and SAE20W-50 Turbo tested and specially formulated for today’s higher revving, hotter running engines with high quality synthetic PolyAlfaOlefin and ester base oils and a carefully balanced race-winning additive package. Approved to meet the stringent API SJ standard by the American Petroleum Institute. The 76 High Performance Synthetic oils can be used in any ‘modern’ high performance or race engine application and provides outstanding low temperature properties to assure oil pumpability and faster engine starting at extremely low ambient temperatures at the same time as it provides unbeatable protection at extreme high operating temperatures. 76 High Performance Engine Oils SAE10W-30, SAE10W-40, SAE20W-50 Turbo tested and specially formulated for today's higher revving, hotter running engines with high paraffin base stock 2 oils and a carefully balanced race-winning additive package. Approved to meet the stringent API SJ standard by the American Petroleum Institute. The 76 High Performance engine oils are specially suited for sports and racing cars with 'older' type of engine design. Wheter used in a race application or in a high performance road car it will give you excellent protection against engine sludge, varnish protection, scuffing and wear combined with a consistent oil pressure even under 'abnormal' oil-temperatures. 76 Super Motor Oils. SAE5W-20, SAE5W-30, SAE10W-40, SAE20W-50 and SAE30 Formulated with high quality base oils and a carefully balanced additive package designed to meet the demanding lubrication requirements of petrol engines. They provide easy starting at low temperatures, low oil consumption and excellent wear protection under all driving conditions. 76’s SAE5W-20 and SAE5W-30 grades are fuel efficient for improved fuel economy and meet new-car warranty requirements (as defined by ILSAC GF-2). All 76 Super Motor oils are approved to meet the stringent API SJ standard by the American Petroleum Institute but the SAE5W-20 and SAE5W-30 grades also meet the new API SL standard. It is also specially designed to cope with today’s demanding driving cycles such as short-trip and stop-and-go driving including usage in turbo engines. Please view our maintaince page for further details.... Induction. All Nismo/Mine's demo cars run stock aribox & panel filter. The A'PEXi Power filter won top honors for being the filter able to generate the most power and the best air flow. The ARC aluminium box is one of the most durable air filters available and a really good performing one as well. The HKS SPF filters are also very good should net 10-13 BHP. Exhaust / De-Cat- Standard exhaust systems are, by design, restrictive. Increasing the amount of exhaust gas flow is the first progressive step towards increasing engine performance and efficiency. Performance exhaust systems are designed to increase the mass and velocity of exhaust gas flow. This allows for a reduction in back pressure and thermal stress, thus unleashing engines potential for increased power, torque and response. Fuel filter Apexi ECU Power FC- My favourite aftermarket ECU. Stand alone, Plug and play. With the hand held commander and the boost control kit . Japanese market premium fuel is rated at 100+ octane. They use a different method of determining octane in Japan. Here in the UK - our premium fuel is 95 octane. Optimax 97. For all practical purposes 95/96 is as high as you will get in most petrol stations. Most people map their cars to optimse the ignition and fuel, this will give best economy on cruise. We highly recommend the Apexi FC. Or in the mean time on stock ECU highly recommend using 76 racing Cool Blue 106 Octane racing fuel. Designed to burn cleanly, give more torque and thrives at high revs. Can be used neat or blended with lower octane street fuels to upgrade 'super unleaded' petrol. This is the fuel to have if you want to improve your qt mile times. Can safely be used in engines with up to 14:1 compression ratio (aluminium heads). Works excellent with both normally aspirated RB20 engines as well as RB25 + RB26 turbo charged engines. Oil Catch Can - GT-R's rev high. They have oil squinters, run under boost, and generally move a lot of air/oil around in the motor. Oil lowers the effective octane of the fuel. Gasket (Steel) Ceramic Coating Water Injection Upgraded Intercooler Upgraded Intercooler Pistons- Blitz, HKS, JUN... all Lightweight yet very strong, pistons are superbly designed and machined, perfectly balanced and suitable for high-power. Cams- stock cams: Int 60 8.58 mm lift 113 centre line Exh 59 8.28 mm lift 125 centre line JUN's camshaft profiling is superior to HKS, Trust or Tomei...They're more expensive than the HKS / Trust counterparts, but believe you get what you pay for. Most the BIG BHP demo cars in Japan use Jun camshafts as their weapon of choice. Crankshafts Fitting of oil cooler, for increased engine life. Oil cooler decrease maximum oil temperature approximately 20°C Correct setting up of suspension;- Upgrading the suspension system can improve the way your car handles, and different systems are available, depending on whether for everyday use, drag racing or track events. Fully adjustable systems are ideal as they can be transformed from soft to hard quickly and easily. HKS Hipermax II are good, Öhlins suspension is better since well they are designed for B-road/track work so they give a much better feel and don't shudder as much. The Öhlins are stiffer but makes for a more comfortable ride as in when your going over bumps and such its more smooth and it isnt the crashing that you get with hiper dampers. Theres also greatly less body roll with the Öhlins setup. TEIN shocks with Eibach springs is considered to be one of the very reliable ones in the market. For a really good street suspension which is competent on the track then the Nismo S-tune is good. Or if you want a really good track suspension which is competent on the street then the Nismo R-tune excellent. Transmission The synchros are not that durable. The internals of the R32/R33 are the same as the 300ZX twin turbo. Redline Shockproof Heavy Gear Oil. OS Giken transmission internal upgrades is good up to 700 hp. Injectors - the standard GTR has 444cc injectors and produces around 450 BHP max on those injectors. As a very very rough guide, cc = bhp. 555cc for 555bhp...the same follows through for the 550cc, 600cc, 680cc etc MAX BHP should be 85% of injector size. Larger injectors make sure you get enough fuel through though and prevents any det and running lean. Fuel pump- *GTST pump is 135 litres per hour and supports 300 bhp at standard pressure *GTR pump is 190 litres per hour and supports 420 bhp at standard pressure *Bosch 910 pump is 200 litres per hour and supports 450 bhp at 73.5 PSI # 0 580 254 910 *Bosch 975 pump is 228 litres per hour and supports 500 bhp at 73.5 PSI # 0 580 254 975 *Bosch 984 pump is 228 litres per hour and supports 500 bhp at 73.5 PSI # 0 580 254 984 *Bosch 044 pump is 330 litres per hour and supports 730 bhp at 73.5 PSI # 0 580 254 044 *Bosch 040 pump is 235 litres per hour and supports 520 bhp at 73.5 PSI # 0 580 254 040 ' Nismo replacement is 276 l/hr. Apex'i Replacement is 276 l/hr. Turbos - HKS offer a number of different turbines for applications ranging from 280bhp to 1000bhp. Designed and constructed using the latest in turbine technology, HKS turbines offer the very best in power and response. The GT turbos offer a balance between power & response by utilizing a ball-bearing center cartridge for increased boost response, a unique compressor wheel design to prevent efficiency drop and a turbine wheel design that produces low-end and high-end torque. Clutch - Lots of power and 4WD. The fuse in the driveline is the clutch. You have a lot of possibilities here. Our recent favourite clutch is the Nismo & OS Giken twin plate clutch. Has a very nice feel, plus its a sprung hub, for that extra give in the driveline. The triple could not be recommended for a street car. It is extremely difficult to drive on the street. Nismo twin plate works well. HKS twin plate is fairly hard to drive, but you get used to it. It also makes a bit of noise. A triple plate is very difficult to drive. Air Flow Meters - Stock ones max out at around 400 horsepower to the wheels. A popular replacement is the 300ZX meters. They are physically larger. 80mm vs 70 mm. The Z32 AFM is needed when you chase higher power on the GTST as the standard one can't cope with the measurement of the higher air flow. Brakes -Brembo, AP Racing, Alcon, Project µ, Endless, Wilwood. The complete kits include brake lines, pads and brakets. The R34 GTR is a Big motor, with lots of momentum and only 320 mm 4 pots. Go for 6 pots. They might be more expensive but they last longer and you halt you to a stand still FAST...