Equilibrise

me too

Thanks for the input guys. I have had the bonnet like this for a little while now and although it is drawing air in at the lifted point I am not experiencing any temperature rise in any driving situation. I am in fact experiencing a temperature loss and improved drivability. I am not recommending anyone else to or not to do this, I am merely posting my experiences, and as dale said earlier, it is just another version of whats been done before. I am yet to get my hands on the appropriate equipment to monitor the pressures, but when i do i will post up the data. To add to DMMs discusion points, before i lifted the bonnet i could not keep my hand on intake manifold at all. Now, after a spirited drive i can keep my hand on it as long as i want - still feels warm, but not nearly as scolding as before. So i'm guessing that the heat from the exhaust manifold that wraps around the back of the motor is being extracted rather than heating up the intake. I'll take a pic of the shroud in the daylight, but i am still convinced that the clutch fan is a better option.

Thanks Dale. That is a pretty good temp compared to mine. I don't have a nismo thermostat as yet. I have got a 53mm aluminium radiator, except when i installed it i didnt trim enough of the shroud off so when driving it for the first time after the install, when i came off boost the engine lurched forward and plowed the clutch fan into the shroud and thus destroyed both...so i installed twin thermos in a sealed shroud i made up. So until i can get my hands on a decently priced shroud and clutch fan i have to live with the davies craig setup. On another note: i put the undertray back on today for the first time since i bought the car. Water temp is between 90-93, so 1 deg higher on the lower running temp;same on the higher end. Intake temps were lower!!! I think this is due to more air being channeled into the cold air intake (ducting next to the I/C).

Sorry Dale. I didn't realise it had been done before and didn't realise that there is a better way. I am just looking for ways to improve my M35. I experience a massive loss in performance when the temps get close to 100deg Personally I don't like the hole in the bonnet idea. Its a bit harder to 'undo' if needed. I am merely testing different ideas and posting the results and receiving feedback from more knowledgeable people, so thankyou to all the everyone giving positive feedback rather than just criticising. So, the string test shows that as Scotty and dunc stated earlier that it is a high pressure area and the string gets sucked into the engine bay there, so probably not so good for the track.. I am guessing that it would be the same case with the hole in the bonnet like craigs...except would the plenum receive the same cooling with the hole, and would the heat generated from the exhaust manifolds and turbo be able to escape as easily?

rather: that's a great test

Thanks guys. All very interesting. Anyone got a magnehelic gauge I could borrow? I may just buy one as it would be interesting to know the exact pressure values in the engine bay with all the different configurations i.e. w and w/out bonnet lift, w and w/out under tray. I will attach some string to the underside of the bonnet where I can view it now Scotty - if that is where you mean. That great test.

Hi all, OK, you might think I am crazy for doing this. I've been looking for ways to reduce engine and intake temps and considering that our engine bays are pretty tightly packed options are limited. I thought of bonnet scoops ,etc but they are ugly and came up with the idea of lifting the rear of the bonnet. The idea is similar to the operation of a fireplace flew - hot air rises (actually cold air is more dense so it pushes the hot air upwards) and as it goes up through the confined space it creates a slight vacuum. With air passing over the outlet more of a vacuum is created and therefore more air circulation or heat extraction from the engine bay. Results, as displayed by the informeter are intake 5-15deg lower temps (I figure its due to the sensor body or AFM not getting as hot) and water temps are much more stable ranging between 89-93 whereas before they were between 91 and 98degs. My car is due for a tune and is running rather rich, so as soon as temps got high it would run like a pig. Now it runs more stable. The physical temperature of the plenum and associated piping is also much much more cool to touch after a drive. All I did was install incremental spacers between the bonnet and bonnet brackets and remove part of the rubber seal. I also had to adjust the bonnet height spacers at the front, as the angle had changed. It would probably be beneficial for those who do track-work as it could increase more down-force and possibly release any built up pressure in the engine bay, but that's just my imagination going mental again. For those wondering about water getting in - it doesn't except if you hose it in while washing the car. See the attached pics for what it looks like. You can see the intake piping in one of them.

Hi all, I would like to know how accurate the O2 display is coming off the stock narrowband. Basically I want to know if it displays the cycles (3 per second or something like that) from close to 0.1V to 0.9V, or if the Greddy processor is just not fast enough to display that quickly. Mine shows random numbers which are closer to the mid range of the scale. I am suspecting that the O2 sensor is on its way out and slowing down. For those who don't know, when an O2 sensor slows down it is screwed and needs replacement. It will not throw a code when it slows down as the ecu still receives a signal from it, but the ecu will run a much richer mixture...so I have read anyway. Any input would be great. Thanks

and injectors, fuel pump and fmic

I thought I would post this up as i don't think it has ever been done before... After installing a new set of BC racing BR suspension I havent been able to get the car high enough in the rear. I had the adjustable perch screwed all the way down to make the car higher, i had the dampener adjusted to the correct length and i had loosened every suspension component, then re-tightened them all in the air and still the rear was so low that i would bottom out on most speed humps even at slow speeds. The springs also felt like they were completely closing up in some instances as it was felt throughout the car and was generally an uncomforable ride. I had been in contact with the BC manufacturer who basically stated that i needed longer springs. Seeing that i had to pay for them i began researching other available options as i believe BC should have got it right the first time. There are not many options, as most of you know. I must note for those who don't have BC's, that this seems to be an isolated occurance and generally BC suspension is a fantastic upgrade. I discovered that in the states 350z owners have an option to upgrade their BC suspension purchases with Swift racing springs directly from BC racing. BC even make a bucket seat adapter to convert the rear spring bucket to be able to mount the smaller width Swift spring . I researched these springs and found many testimonials and independant reviews. They sounded too good, so i decided to give them a go. The 350z uses exactly the same spring bucket as our M35's. The result was astounding. Even though i increased the spring rates, the ride is smoother, more predictable, more stable, braking has improved, steering is more responsive, less body roll and over all more comfortable. Anyway here is what they look like. Swift claim to use a unique metal formulation which makes their springs perform better, last longer and have less material in them - you can see the space between the coils is greater in the swift compared to the bc. If you are curious, just do a gogle search for swift racing springs - others can explain better than me.

That's a pretty good price!

Probably is the bov making noise, not the waste gate. Is it misfiring while it does this? If the entire intake from afm to engine holds 30psi then it is most likely afm or a misfire issue ie fouled plugs, coil packs, poor compression. Eg. Mine has had Intake leaks, fouled plugs and faulty coil packs and hasn't thrown a code. I believe others have had their afm die without throwing a code also.

Yes it is likely Dave. I live near there.

Spotted a tidy white M35 on Gipps St in Concord this evening.

Hi Glen, These gaskets are not always replaced, although it is a good idea to ensure no leaks. The turbo manifold gasket and dump gasket can be purchased from any performance parts shop or ebay, or if you are lucky, a part shop like Auto One. Take your old one with you - its just easier - and the turbo manifold is a T3 flange gasket I think, and the dump is a common one for Nissans. All of the above are available on ebay and on google search...just don't use the word "stagea" or "m35" in your search. The intake gaskets come from Nissan, however, I just used rtv silicone on both sides of my old gasket - intake only. Good luck

Silver 260RS on Parra rd at 6ish

Looks good. Post up some pics when they are finished...and lit up.

They probably are the same if we got them from the same place, but I didn't see any need in using cable ties to secure them. Ok here are the pics...sorry about the wait! This is the front, but the rear is similar.

No they don't. Only a mounting bracket already attached to the line.

I agree. Sounds like AFM, but check the error codes first.

What do you mean by 3 parts Scotty? They are full replacement - single braided line from solid line to caliper. I'll take some pics over the weekend some time. I guess I could organise group buy, however seeing that I already have a set there is not really anything in it for me...unless you want to organise front and rear sway bars for me Dale?

Found it: Stoptech stainless steel braided lines Purchased from Concept Z performance Designed for G35 sedan 03-06, coupe 03-07 (I think they were for G35X if they make different ones for those models) Part Number for front and rear set G35-950.42004_950.42503 Fitted to M35 ARX with 350Z Brembo's - straight fit, no drama's, no cable ties; was able to use supplied bracket mount Cost me $150 plus postage (2 years ago) for the set

I put Stoptech braided lines on mine. Can't remember how much they were though. Part Number 950.42503

Rather: I'm glad it helped you brick!

I'm glad you it helped brick! Mine was built in 2001 Scotty. Interesting that it is only on some vehicles.