kiwi32

250 rwks will rip an r32 box a new asshole.

On my rb30 im using a 3inch mild system with one resonator in the middle and one oval muffler at the back. The turbo exhaust housing is .84 and the waste gate is plumbed back, at 100ks it is very quiet and it also has a very nice sound on boost, but at 80ks it drones so bad you can feel it inside your head.

r32 gts25 auto use a 3.5 ratio.

yes it can be done quite easily you dont have any vvt though and also if it is a series 2 motor you will need to use your coils and igniter off of the 32 engine.

I drove an A31 cefiro at work that had k style coil overs in it as well as 17's . there is about a 15mm bump going into our workshop and my teeth nearly fell out when i hit it going very slowly it also bounced all over the road to the point of being dangerous. Why any one would chose to drive a car like that is a mystery to me.

My work van was doing the same thing was the rear driveshaft universal we didnt fix it till it was doing it going forward aswell.

R32 gts25 use a 3.5 ratio this works really well with my rb30 I am doing 3000rpm at 100ks in 4th and 2600 at 100ks in 5th. This is in an r32 gtst and with a 7500rpm redline 300ks is almost possible, in theory anyway.

I modified my standard exhaust manifold to take an external gate it is easy to do.

I can swap a r32 box in about 2 hours thats on my own with the car on stands ive had abit of practice though. Ive done it about 6 times on my own cars. The easiest way i found to get it back in is to lay under the car with your head under the sump with the gearbox beside you. lift the bell housing onto your chest so you can push it up with your arms then put your knees under the tail shaft end and push the whole box up and in, its easy to wiggle it about to line up in this position . Its a damn good arm workout too.

I bought my valve springs from a cylinder head shop $240 the set 70pound seat pressure up from 39 and was told there are two different types. Apparently the spring diameter is the difference. mine were listed as rb20 springs.

Thanks thats all i needed to know.

Does anyone know if these fit the r32 RB25DE head or do they need to be modified.

Im an auto electrician and that has to be the biggest load of horse shit ive read for a very long time. The weight gain from installing it would cancel out any performance gains.

I have heard of one which was that thin when it got hot is sagged under the weight of the turbo. I have also heard of the waste gates falling off.

Thanks guys The hicas has been 90% removed from the car but the 2 hydrulic lines still run along the chassis. thought about using these as fuel lines as they are quite large will need a good flush though.

Very keen to see your results especially when your turbo begins to make boost and when it reaches full boost. I was thinking of building a surge tank and getting a bosch 044 pump as well as bigger lines.

If fuel pressure is a factor why not turn the fuel rail around so that the inlet is at the front and the pressure reg is at the back? if the leaning out issue is tranfered to the front cylinder you then know that fuel pressure is a factor. just a thought

I know this question has been asked many times but here it goes again. I have built up an rb30/25 engine and it has come time to chose a turbo, the problem is i dont know a whole lot about turbos. After spending a long time on here searching and reading i am more confused than when i started.the turbos i am looking at are the Garrett GT3071r 1.06ar with internal gate GT3040 .86-1.06ar GT3540 .86 I am hopeing for 450-500 flywheel hp my mods so far include RB30 block rebuilt, bored 30thou weisco forged pistons 8:1 compression RB25DE (r32) head with better valve springs std cams custom forward facing plenum 550cc injectors Link plus engine management Walbro fuel pump FMIC I would like a reasonable amount off driveability with minimal lag as this is a street car. Can anyone help me with some good advice on which off the above turbos would be most suited to my aplication also what size exhaust is required for this setup??? Thanks in advance.

The 6 triggers are negative switching There is a latching plug close to the igniter which also goes to the coils this has the positive feed and earth as well as the timing link wire. Check you have 12 volts and earth at the cas then check the 2 signals with a LED one will pulse 6 times per revolution of the cas the other 180 times per revolution which will look as though it is on all the time unless you turn it very slowly.