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Murray_Calavera

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Posts posted by Murray_Calavera

    RB25DET service manual - cylinder block

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Hi all,

    I've got the R33 service manual that is all over the net, the 450ish page R33 engine manual, RB20, 25, 26 etc. 

    I'm going to rebuild my RB25DET however the specs for the cylinder block isn't there. The manual has these details for the RB26DETT but no other motor. 

    Looking at the numbers for the RB26DETT, a lot of them will be the same for the RB25 but some of them I am confident will not be correct for a RB25.

    Does anyone know where I can get a workshop manual covering the bottom end of the RB25?

    I'm happy to pay for the manual, I really just want to avoid buying something online which turns out to be the manual I already have. 

    Thoughts on 4032 pistons?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    The motor is getting torn down anyway as I've spun a bearing. The clock shows 250,000k's at the moment and I think it's had a hair cut when it came in to Australia. 

    I haven't pulled apart the block yet but I'd be amazed if I could get away with a hone and reusing the factory pistons. 

    I was thinking as I'll need to buy a set of oversize pistons, why not spend a little more and throw some forged pistons in instead. Initially I was thinking I should be able to get a set for around the $1,000 so only a bit more over stock and worth the money. 

    If I'm paying double the cost of a factory piston, I'm not sure if it's worth it.

    Thoughts on 4032 pistons?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Hi all, 

    I wanted to get some thoughts on running 4032 forged pistons. 

    I'm only looking to make around 300kws as I'll be limited by stock exhaust manifold and internal gate. The car will mainly be used on the street however will get track abuse every other month or so. 

    The more I think about it, 2618 just doesn't seem appropriate for my needs. I'll have to run a larger cylinder to wall clearance, so more engine wear, more blow by, more engine noise to filter out with the knock sensors etc and I'll never see anything close to the power they are rated at. 

    The issue I'm having is trying to find 4032 pistons, it looks like Supertech and Mahle still do them however at a cost of about $1,500! I was expecting 4032 to be a cheaper option but I guess the price is due to the low demand. 

    With my power figure in mind and the cost of 4032's, I'm starting to think if I should just run factory pistons? I had a quick look, seems like I should be able to get a set of new oversized stock pistons for about $700.

    Hmm...

    Thoughts on drifting daily car?

    in Drift & Drag

    Posted

    Probably worth an update, so my daily drift car has done a big end bearing. Guess it was only a matter of time with no oil control mods done on the engine. 

    Next  one will have pump, sump, restrictors, drain etc etc - hopefully no more spun bearings. 

    On the plus side, still haven't broken any driveline or suspension components. 

    rb25 turbo advise

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Griffin said:

    What bolt ons would that need to make 400kw mate?

    All of them?

    Full exhaust
    Front mount
    Fuel system - injectors, rail, reg, fuel pump, etc
    ECU - flex sensor & wideband (you'll probably want fuel pressure, air temp, oil temp, oil pressure as well for engine protection etc)
    Dyno tuning costs
    Labor costs for above as I'm guessing you'll be paying to have it all done

    So only another $10,000 or so on top really lol

    • Haha 1

    dual vs single entry fuel rail

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Hi all,

    I've pretty much got my shopping list sorted for the new fuel system, there is only one thing left to work out... dual entry or single entry setup for the fuel rail?

    I've been strongly recommended by a few people to run dual entry with the center return setup. Their main argument tends to be that due to the length of the rail, I might see a pressure drop across the rail and I could have a cylinder slightly lean out at times. 

    This doesn't make a lot of sense to me, the way I see it if the fuel pump can keep up and the reg is doing it's job then the fuel pressure should always be equal across the rail. 

    The more I look around the more I find people running both setups, and I can't seem to see any downsides performance wise either way. 

    I'm keen to hear some more thoughts on the matter. 

    Haltech plug in

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    If your creative you can create your own form of traction control using the speed limiter function

    1. Create the table using gear and rpm as your axis 

    2. Populate the tables, inputting the speed that you would achieve in each gear vs rpm with no wheel spin 

    3. In the main setup for the speed limiter, set the tolerance say 5 kph with ignition as the limit method 

    4. Then you can play with the ignition cut %, say start around 30% - 50% for a nice soft cut. See what works for you by adjusting the % cut

    I run a pro plug in, no complaints here :)

    Any reason not to use nismo 740s?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Hi all,

    I'm about to put a set of injectors in and I can't seem to look past just throwing in a set of nismo 740s. I'm only looking to make around 300kw on flex, so I can't see a reason to use anything else. Doing a top feed conversion just seems like more work and cost for no real gain. 

    I assume I'm correct in that the nismo 740s will idle fine, run e85 fine and cope with 300kw? So is there any real world advantage to using a modern injector, say ID1050X? 

    Cheers!

    Replacement AC Compressor for R33 gtst

    in New South Wales

    Posted · Edited by Murray_Calavera

    Hi all,

    Has anyone been able to source a replacement AC compressor for an R33 gtst? I'm not looking to gamble on a 2nd hand item. 

    All I can seem to find is the R32 GTR compressor on RHD and when speaking to my air con guy, he didn't have the part listed. 

     

    Cheers!

    Tuning question - shouldn't the motor have popped?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Thanks heaps for the advice :) problem fixed! 

    As advised, I threw in a 30AMP relay with a 20AMP fuse and hardwired the fuel pump. I can't believe the difference it made. 

    I've got another log to upload, look at that beautiful sweeping AFR as the boost and RPM rise. A nice and safe 11.1 AFR with 6500 RMP and 10 psi of boost. 

    I also switched over to wideband O2 control, so satisfying cruising around at 14.7 AFR now. Previously it would run super rich on light load and super lean on high load getting me around 15 liters per 100km. I'm looking forward to seeing how much my fuel economy improves. 

    Very excited, it's like I have a new car :) 

    Hardwired fuel pump.jpg

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