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:cool:Hi All, I am looking at buying a 1997 series 1 Stagea 260rs with 100,100kms on the clock. I believe it runs R33 GTR running gear. I got the car inspected and almost all the results came back good. It was misfiring on one cylinder and the inspector said that it was probably either the plugs and/or coilpacks. He advised me to get the engine comp tested to make sure. Unfortunately i dont know if the comp test was done warm or cold, but i would like to know if these results are ok? Are they acceptable considering the age and number of kms on the engine? Results: C1: 145 C2: 145 C3: 150 C4: 150 C5: 150 C6: 145 It seems that they've also put in Platinum plugs into the engine when the comp test was done. I dont know if the plugs were put in prior to the test or after. Actually i dont know what brand they've used either. Can someone tell me what are acceptable/average comp test results for R33 GTR engine both Cold and Hot, pls??

Hi, PM Sent

how much do you want for the heater core?

hi im interested in the heater cores. Im in south east. Do u still have them for sale? Can i come over and look at them?

hi, do you have the boot lid struts? If so how much? Cheers.

Great! it seems the datascan i downloaded was a fake. So i dont have it. I dont suppose anyone has one of the old versions 1.4 or older available?

Guys...theres been a slight misunderstanding. LOL 80rwkW with the kncok sensor UNPLUGGED! LOL The boost i was running was "stock" cos i didnt want to boost it with it running like a bag of shyte and blow it up. So i ran it with the Greddy controller on "off" all the time. hmmmmm.....mad082, I never thought about the neutral gear having being set to on permanently to allow it to start and what you say makes perfect sense aswell about the different mapping for an auto. Im already getting the manual ecu from a member off here so once ive got it i hope i will have no errors so i can then properly tune my car and have it running properly once and for all. Although i am curious mad082, how exactly do i check that the neutral signal has been shorted with datascan?? i've downloaded one of the older versions and am not familiar with its functionality. :-) BTW thanks to all for the advice so far, without SAU i wouldve burnt my car in some paddock by now. LOL

Knock Sensor unplugged?????? Now why TF did i not think of that?? LOL Well.........checked the sensor closest to radiator that was fine. took me forever to figure out EXACTLY where the other one was (had to use 2 bloody mirrors and a flash light. Guess what? it was bloody unplugged. It was a damn nightmare to get to. I managed to get my hand in there and wiggle it on there. Started the car and it already sounded better, hooked up the consult cable and ecutalk s/ware and no more knock sensor errors. Drove it and i forgot what it was like to drive with all that power. It was DAMN AWESOME! So...........a BIG THANK YOU to you MAD082, for stating the so obvious and solving my problem LOL. For those who are curious, i had the car dyno'd in this state and it only produced 80kW at the wheels. That was with FMIC, Greddy boost controller, 3" hi flow turbo back exhaust, pod filter. I still have the A/T Control Sensor error. Will this affect my cars performance??? ALSO HOW DO I GET RID OF THIS ERROR???

funny u mention that because i once needed a part for my car and went to nissan and gave them my vin and they told me that the car originally mustve been an auto. So if thats the case is there any way to get rid of the code or is my ecu an auto one? How do i tell?

hi guys, ive connected my consult cable to my r33 series 1 and ecu talk has told me i have 2 error codes. knock sensor - how do i fix? a/t control. Can any1 help? Btw my car is a manual and has always been since i got it. Converted from gts to gtst. Pretty much swappped everything over from a real turbo into my car, running gear cradles, diff, tranny, ecu etc (ecu was for a manual i think, how do i check?

sorry to bring up an old thread but i just got an a/t control error code (but my car is manual) and also knock sensor error? Does that mean my sensor is rooted or can i some how assess it without replacing it? I hear they are under the intake plenum and a mongrel to get to! Also y would i get the at control code error if my car is manual, how do i fix it? Or get rid of the error code

hi all, ive used my consult cable and found my knock sensor is throwing a fault code. Does anyone have one to sell? A knock sensor i mean. Thanks. alan

I'm happy to take it off your hands for $40 but i do have a question. Is the piping for a FMIC with entry and exit on either side of the cooler or both on one side of the cooler??

aaaah thanks for that i'll check my dimmer switch and the light 'leak' see if i cant solve this stupid thing? also with the dimmer switch mine no longer actually dims anything and im wondering how it should be wired??

Aaaah Now that you bring that up, that reminds me. In Victoria when they did the compliance on my car, they added some dodgy ass dimmer for the panel lights but i disconnected it to remove the dash panel (where the fusebox door is) and then reconnected it and my panel lights no longer dim. How would the dimmer affect ONLY that paticular warning light???

Hi Guys, My R33 GTS-t has the oil light ALWAYS on. But it is barely visible. At night it is more noticeable (obvoiusly cos its darker) but at day unseeable unless the shadows are just right. LOL Anyway i have Autometer gauges for Oil Pressure and Water Temp and i have checked the oil levels and changed the oil and that hasn't fixed anything. The Oil pressure has been the same before the issue started and now. Water temp is still the same with slight variations as normal. I have read on the forums that the oil pressure sender unit (for the gauge) and the oil light thingy are different. What could be the problem guys im at my wits end and the f*&^king light has had me paranoid for weeks. I'm open to suggestions.