mattymagoo22

a horseshoe with a hole at each end

when I had my standard blow off valve on it seemed to whistle under the conditions you describe when I changed it noise gone.

I guess that means I'm wrong. I apologise. Cheers Matt.

sorry mate cant help with the reverse switch but you could check it with a multimeter check resistance across two wires in and out of reverse i think the other switch is a neutral switch??? Even with tailshaft in if the car was jacked up and you started it in neutral you'd probably find that the rear wheels would begin to turn! far bit of friction in there huh!

djr81 you're a tool mate. I have clearly explained the ideas behind removing rotating mass from anypart of the drivetrain and simply used Gran Turismo as an example. You clearly have no experience or knowledge on the subject so kindly shut your pie hole champ. If you were to compare a stock car and one with a lightened flywheel over a 1/4 mile or around a track the one with lighter flywheel would clearly out accelerate the stock vehicle however this is beyond your comprehension and you've obviously never been in a car before and after this mod has been carried out. Do me a favour and grab a rock and put it in your sock and swing it around in a circle take the rock out and put in a bigger rock swing it in the same fashion it will take more to get the bigger rock going that it will for the smaller rock. MR R34 Only that you'll feel like you'll have less torque down low due to the loss of momentum due to the removal of mass from the flywheel, however once on boost you'll barely notice it. your engine will rev out a lot quicker though and acceleration particularly in lower gears will improve. oh yeah and it costs money. Cheers Matt.

its not engaged in a gear its just that without a gear selected everything still spins inside the box and with the oil in it its sort of like a viscous coupling. Completely normal.

no power gains as such but the less weight your engine has to turn eg flywheel and clutch assembly, gearbox, tail shaft, diff, wheels the quicker it can accelerate. Remember gran turismo you could get a racing flywheel and carbon fibre tail shaft and you drop .3-.4 off your 1/4 mile time on a stock s13 or similar!

Howdy Mates engine (turbo forester) popped not long after having being "tuned" (if you can call it that) anyways pulled spark plug out of suss cylinder and it had been knocked shut, engine out heads off and the piston cracked at the ring land and across the fly cuts, so its getting the works (forgies H-beam rods ACL bearings etc etc) sent the block out with pistons to get machined up when the job was done they rang and told us the engine was ready to come back and also that it had been detonating on the cylinder that failed without us even saying a word about what we were doing or why!!!! Its good to know that there are still some people out there who know what they're doing and are worth the money they're getting paid! Cheers Matt.

You need to disable your internal gate you could weld it shut or have something hold it shut from outside where its hooked up to the actuator. Tehn you to find a location in front of the turbo entry where exhaust gas can be made to bypass the turbo (hope you're good at welding cast iron as its nearly impossible) bolt on your external gate and screamer pipe, run manifold pressure to it and there you go! man you're going to be going to a lot of trouble. it would be easier to buy an aftermarket manifold with the facility for an external gate and save yourself some brain damage. hope this helped Matt.

Had a bit to do with brant alarms and some of the components are of a very cheap quaility. Alot of the time the relays in these fail.

you can get a little tool that fits in the end of the c spring compressor and will fit inside the cavity where the bucket sits. The screwdriver method really does work, multivalve heads have a much lower spring rate than old school two valve heads. horses for courses.

remove spark plug and run some compressed air into cylinder to keep valves up (most of the time the valve stem seal is enough to hold the valve in place) if you don't have compressed air you can always wind the piston upto top dead on the cylinder you removing just incase the valve drops. I take it you don't have a valve spring compressor so.... you're going to need: A mate 2x Big flat head screwdrivers a pen magnet or something you can poke in to get the collets out and last but not least poke your tongue out at just the right angle whilst pushing the 2 big screwdrivers down on the outside of the spring seat while your bud grabs the valve collets with the magnet and wallah should be able to swap em over. I usually plug oil return drains just incase things don't go to plan. Goodluck and cheers Matt.

a big rock takes longer to gain speed when rolling, but harder to stop once rolling than a smaller rock. rough example. When a car is in 1st gear engine sees maybe 200kg in 2nd 500kg 3rd900 and so on. If you can remove weight before the gearbox and diff (torque multiplers) you engine sees less weight and can accelerate faster for the same power. So you won't gain power on a dyno but you will gain response on the road.

where do you pick up your 3 seconds? under brakes, good line/smooth line being in the right rev range or combination of these?

heel and toe is used first and foremost to stop compression lock-up. If you are doing 100 ks and drop it back to 3rd and let you foot off the clutch we all know whats going to happen. rally drivers of older days used this method to both maintain and overcome grip particularly on dirt/snow surfaces when down shifting and skipping gears ie: 5th down to 3rd is quicker than 5th 4th 3rd also helpful to keep smooth on a track. Rev matching will work when your syncrhos are worn out to help stop the crunching. Engine braking ,i believe, on the track is useless in slowing the car, really when you let the clutch out your using the brakes to slow the engine and not the opposite. Maybe in the older days when drum brakes were used and were no longer working too well after getting extremly hot engine braking was used to assist but now in the age of 4 wheel discs multi piston calipers the only reason people do it is out of habit. And old habits die hard. I reckon that double clutching heel toeing would probably wear out your clutch quicker as there are twice as many instances of friction as opposed to leaving the clutch in the whole time. And saving a gearbox and going to the drags should not be mentioned in the same passage imo. as for the longevity of your drivetrain it comes down the how the car is both maintained and driven. Had a mate with a car from new (tp magna) with 230 000klms on original clutch disc gearbox and engine no crunching a little smoke from exhaust but driven properly it shows how long things can last. as for saving synchros they are designed to be the friction point on the gears to help them engage but the pressure applyed to them when changing gears would have more of an affect then the difference in gearbox and engine speeds so again driving style is a big factor cheers matt.

Hey guys fun thread. Whenever I do anything with any type of thread thats going to take a decent amount of torque I always use some sort of lube- moly grease on stuff that doesn't cop too much heat and copper grease on exhaust nuts and bolts and this is a perfect example why, so frustrating. Instead of paying the thread repair bloke $100+ try and take the whole manifold off and get at it with a drill then tap an allen key into the hole and wind it out using the end of a ring spanner to get a bit of leverage on the little bugger. if the allen key slips mig it in!! Good luck man. p.s as long as the stud has enough threads in to the manifold it doesn't really matter how tight you put it in. the tension on the nuts act to lock it in just as long as the nut doesn't bottom out on the part of the stud without threads.

you should change your oil whenever it gets dirty, that is, starts to go black or smells fuelly.

Yeah saw him there last night I ran the same 13.81@ 105 mph but 2.2 60ft killed me. Diff played up so I couldn't really heat my crappy tires up.

isn't it best to have a pretty big side wall to flex and help bite so 15s would be the go eh

I have tried aftermarket belt and have found them quite noisy, switched over to a gen item all good.

totally agree that brass clutches are not for the street. They not only wear out the disc but due the the metal in it, the flywheel and also the pressure plate. If it started to slip so soon it could be a hydraulic problem pedal may be still engaging even though its all the way out. On the track though they can hold a lot more than an organic disc

I didn't think it had anything to do with clamping pressure. It's more to do with space, the pull type assembly is much more compact, alot of late models cars use it WRX pajero and magna and I think series II r33 onwards. My thoughts.

mate was is switched through the T-bar before may have to do up some custom wiring and find the wires to the reverse lights . It may be earth switched from the switch in the box meaning there is always power to the lights its just that selecting reverse completes the circuit. However I've never played with them before so good luck.

I thought you weren't supposed to touch these screws Don't hold me to this i thinks its a one and a quarter turns, you could always try carby and efi places.....????

Hey guys in regards to phone calls and PMs house is settling soon, am on honeymoon, so am moving house when i get back so car won't be available for viewing for a couple of weeks, cheers Matt.