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Well I went to pits and failed. Everything was good. BOV was plumb back. different rims and tyre profiles was fine. zorst was quiet enough. lights worked. But i forgot to bolt up centre muffler mounting bracket. So the zorst sag'd a bit in the middle and I failed the ground clearance. Well at least I have 21 days get that sorted. Thanks all ur advice. If cops pull me over again, I might refuse to turn on my car, and/or rev it next time. And have legal tyres. Then they can't sticker me....

use search function check a different section or just go to panel beater

you can buy a stock one and slap that on and plumb it back. or put coke can aluminimum between bov and piping to get quieter flutter.

ahaha 33's are more common. yeh dude, heaps of people who grow attatched to their first car want to convert it to RWD (if it was orginally FWD) and slap a mad engine in it. but yeh a R32 is a good way to go. good luck with it

Import yards like auto-wholesaler and imports 101 should have stock 32's for 13K. Have a look there. Otherwise the quokka, gum tree and this forum is a good place to look. Good luck

Haha, sorry to hear u got stickered. I did on friday by highway patrol. They know a fair amount of stuff. You have to realise hat stickers are just a way of cops inconvienincing you cos u drive an import. As long as ur car is road legal the pits will pass you. So just have legal tread on tyres. secure pod. legal tint. degrease engine bay. Fix what u can and take it to the pits. Book in cos theyare usually banked up by 2 weeks. they will give u an extention if u have fixed some of the list.

I have 225/50-16's on front. 225/60/16's on back. Rear coil overs are too low so needed more profile to jack car up. Even it out. Cheers

you will go faster if u use the search button. read the forced induction turbo upgrade dyno figures to see what mods most people do for what power. But to make a car faster good tyres, LSD is a must. brakes should also be good to stop faster if u get to faster speed easier.

Ok, car now has legal tread all round. Head lights work properly, indicators are now orange and legal. Boost is stock. Ride hieght is now legal. 100+mm everywhere. Crazy quiet 2.5" zorst is on. GTR BOV is now plumb back. Painted my HICAS lock bar black. Tomoro a quick degrease and off to pits real early. Car is rego'd with RB25 My expiry date is the 13th. Tomoro will be the 8th. Get in early. Good friday/monday .... oh noes The gauges are on the a-pillar. I have two. Aparently danger to my face if I crash. Any other advice PS: will they pass a car with diff front and back rims. Do the tires have to be same brand, profile etc all round?

Yeh, I only the car for a couple of months. So never noticed projector was out, cos all the other lights work. Yeh, my mate reckons you don't even need start the engine. But they said I could also get a 150$ fine for headlight not working, so I didn't want to push it. How much does an inspection cost? Which one should I book it into?

Hey guys. Unfortunately I got stickered on friday night on a cruise. Highway patrol pulled me over cos one of my projectors was not working. He then proceeded to look at the car. He asked me pop the bonnet. Then checked a few things, then asked me to start the car. He then opened my door and reved the engine 3 times. Making the atmo GTR bov make some noise. I got done for bald rear tyres (inside camber wear), no permit for my two A-pillar guages, Bov, headlight. So I am wondering what are cops allowed to do. Can they ask me to open my bonnet, or start my car, or rev the engine. Can I refuse, or can they get angry and do me for something else? Which vehicle inspection place should I go to? How much does it cost? Any other advice? Sorry guys, first time with this. Cheers Berny

I demand engine bay pics!

Woah dude. Great work, thats looks killer. Be able to run some big ponies with that setup. Bit of lag though... but whenit comes it will BLOW people away. Keen so see the car its in

Any other input into this? I wanna know how serious it is running 15-18 psi when engine is cool and if turbo will explode. Or not. Otherwise I will definitely get a 2535 or 2835 or GTRS really soon. Dammit, so much money

Did you mean disconnect the waste gate actuator so that it is always open = car will run max boost of like 6psi at full rpm, cause the gate is always open. Or disconnect the hose so that the gate stays closed and runs max boost ~ 24psi....

Yeh as budda said. Don't run the hiflo turbo and 14.6 psi of boost. Ur stock ecu will not be able to cope. Ur car will get too much air, ping, detonate and pop a rod out of the engine block = rebuild

Get Apexi SAFC II cost 400$ easy to install. Hence a piggy back system to stock ecu. Otherwise go the Power FC for just over a grand for it, install and tune

The boys are Top Racing. They do a damn good job. Thanks to Mr Thomas. Performance Unlimited, Kwinana Performance, West Racing Motor Development, WA Automotive Specialists, TRG Super Dyno Center, APC Australian Performance Center....

Get a Apexi SAFC II, they allow you to some tune-ability. If you are low on coin. Otherwise go a Apexi Power FC straight away. Buy one second hand. Or if you are going aftermarket ECU. I can advise the WOLF 3D V500 is great for RB25's

Yeh, RB20DET would be a better bet for the R31. Heaps of the boys are running silver tops and loving it. I wouldn't advise getting a RB20 bored out and a RB25 head put on. Too much mucking around. Would cost too much. Rather just get a RB25 or a get a 25 head and slap it on a RB30 bottom end for some real power. People usually stroke their RB20's to RB24's if they have spent big coin on turbo's and ecu's etc for the RB20. You are starting fresh. So just save urself some money and hassel. RB25 or a RB25/30 aka RB30DET. I wouldn't bother too much with the R31. They are classic cars. I love them. But when the tailshafts, diffs and gearbox's etc start breaking from increased power and the fact it doesn't have IRS are bad. So I would get a R32 or just do a mild build with the R31. That is what I have learnt with my two skylines

Oh. The boost controller must be allowing the wastegate to open later to run higher boost. But when the air is cold/dense and the intercooler has not soaked up heat, then the boost creeps. The EBC then realises it and settles it back down to correct setting. How do I decrease the gain? Nah for like 5 or so full gear runs the boost was at 16ish. Then it got better and sat at 12psi. Turbo's explode purely due to hoop stress if they are ceramic, not because of heat or dirty oil. Just because they are spinning too fast and to much energy. So if my ecu stops the car from leaning out. The turbo can still explode cos the ECU won't stop the turbo spinning too fast

hahaha yeh, typo. Meant, I don't want to feed my engine compressor wheel pieces.

Ummm dude.... I have an electronic boost controller installed. That is far better than a bleed valve. Bleed valves are more prone to boost spike and creep.

My neighbor has one. It never gets driven, too rare

You are more likely to find Apexi Power FC's 2nd hand for R33's. The Wolf's are not as common and again not as common on R33's. WOLF make plug in ECU's and looms for R33's. And have a base map for a stock engine. Wolf's do not need to run of AFM sensor. And the new V500 can run without TPS like my car is. It does need a water temp sensor and a MAP sensor though If that was what u were asking about