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Don't double post, or triple post. Wait for someone to reply. Otherwise u will get flamed. U said u need a 3" turbo exhaust system. So you need a dump pipe, a front pipe, a cat, a mid pipe and a muffler. Dump pipe comes in split or bellmouth (shaped like a bell - mouth) and a front pipe just blots up to that. Nissan make the dump and front pipe seperate, Which isn't necessary for you. SO you can run a front/dump pipe combo like I linked you. Its your choice what you buy. Depending on price and what you want.

Labour for timing belt is 250$. Belts for genuine is 99$ and for Gates Racing Belt its 99$

Redline is a real good brand. The normal MT-90 oil they do for good condition gearbox'. Thats what I recomend

I emailed them. I hear the distributor is in Ozy Park, So I will call them. Yeh, pretty sure shockproof is only for race use and worn box's. Not good condition ones. Its either too slippery or just corrosive

The front cut has 106k on the dials when it came in. It has 63k in 2000. Cut came in 2006. So, i dunno, probably save. Might be better to just do it for peace of mind.

I wouldn't buy that stuff from ebay. Its generally china stuff. Which means its made to look cool, be cheap. But turns out that it might not fit properly. If you are lucky it will fit, but then warp, crack or corrode really badly. So it will become useless. Best to buy stuff from Just Jap. There is a JJR Stainless 3" Bellmouth Front/Dump Pipe - Nissan for 200$. Would be a better bet. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=276&page=1

A good place to look for panel beaters is in the sticky thread. Or if you searched for it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...hr-t191756.html

Yeah most of the japanese performance parts shops are about 30 minutes drive away from Fremantle

Cool thanks boys. Turns out my timing belt was changed 40k ago. But the engine and body have each done ~100k now. But I want to do the oils and fluids properly. Motul 300V Chrono for engine, Redline Lightweight Shockproof for gearbox, Motul 90PA for diff. Full liquids flush. All filters, compression test, iridium plugs, carbon clean plenum, all drive belts. Check for leaks, and rubber boots, sub frame and suspension checked and tightened, radiator pressure test. Hoping this will cost under 1K, due to not having to do timing belt etc.

Yeah I thought it would have been 12/4 as in December 2004 @ 63k. But the engine has 100k on it now. So I needed to know if its been done. The waterpump and gasket look 40k old, not 100k old. So that makes sense. But yeh, big thanks. Saves me ~350$ , don't have to do it for another 60k, now that I know. Timing belt won't be likely to instantaniously snap and blow up the engine anytime soon...

People use redline lightweight shock proof oil to help their gears stop crunching. Like when the syncro's start to play up. Which wouldn't be necessary in a good condition gearbox

LEGEND!

I want to change my gearbox oil and diff oil. I know that Redline is one of the best oils for a car's gearbox. Helps synchro's work better. BUT. I remember hearing/reading that the lightwieght shockproof gear oil is corrosive for the gearbox. On the website it says: .Does that mean it will corrode your gearbox. I also hear it only lasts for 10,000kms. Not 80,000 like normal gear oils. And will that corrode the LSD of my R32, with a RB25DET engine and box. So I was wondering if I shoudl just get Redline superlight shock proof oil. Or Royal purple maxgear.

So when was it changed? The RB25DET is from a R33 skyline. So was it changed 12 years after 1996 or in 2002 or what?

Sorry to dig up this thread, but i have a quick question What does this sticker mean on the top of my RB25DET cam timing cover?

Sorry to dig up this thread, but i have a quick question What does this sticker mean on the top of my RB25DET cam timing cover?

Woah dude thats crazy damage. Sorry to hear it happened and see the damage pics. Its a deterant for people to be silly in the wet. Thanks. I had old good tyres on a car, and in the wet they slide no matter what you do. Its because the tyres were old and brittle not new and sticky like they should be. Tires are the contact point of car to road. So if u have shite tyres ur car WILL slide.

I am def keen for a run before season ends once I have done my engine/gearbox/diff oil

Who was that quote from? Was the original stock RB25 turbo, just repairing it? or was that giving it a steel wheel of same size as the ceramic ones?

So has anybody got their cam timing belt and water pump changed. Any idea of the cost. Or had engine and gearbox oil done?

Yeh disco. I didn't see how putting a heavy steel wheel'd, bush bearing turbo would work well on a RB20DET. It would be ultra laggy. I was just clarifying. That document might have been written in like 1996. So AM turbo's were limited and Silvertop RB20's were not as widely/readily available. PS. I had the VL T3 turbo on my R31 for 2 years. Ran a bov for 6 months, then got a FMIC and had no bov = flutter. Then for a year I ran a dose pipe. so 1.5 years of compressor surge. The turbo still has very little shaft play. Same as when I put it on 2 years prior. They are 20 year old turbo's. And still going strong. Can't be that bad.

Is that good or bad? EDIT: By the way. I read this old school info sheet form R31 skyline club ( the last of the mass produced aus skylines). It states tha the RB20DET's should be fitted with RB30ET turbo's for good simple power upgrade. So seeing as many 20's have 25 turbo's I thought a 30 turbo would be similarly good. Apparently not.. meh http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/2/24/Nissan6s2.jpg

Woah, thank yo so much for that A. I will def not put the VL T3 turbo on now. Just run 12psi on the stock 25 turbo, until I go hiflo or GTRS. Peace guys

No, a RB25DET turbo is a T28 with a T3 flange. The VL Turbo is T3. The VG30 turbo's in VG30DET design are 90% the same to RB25DET turbo's. Ceramic, ball bearing T28. It just has a slightly larger exhaust housing. = makes a good hiflo. Not a worthwhile upgrade for RB25DET. The VG30ET tubo's are 90% the same as the VL T3 turbo's. Oil journal bearing and steel. So the same. The R34 turbo is nylon and ball bearing. Has a larger exhaust housing, so it would be ok. EDIT: Has anyone bothered to put a R34 Neo turbo on a RB25DET from a R33? I thought even the stock Neo turbo's don't like 14+ psi cos they are nylon = also shatter at high rpm

Hey guys. I am wondering what you guys got done at your 100k service or also recommend. Just checking if I miss anything. Cause the workshop said I need to make them a list. And how much did it cost you. I need a rough idea. Cheers Berny You don't need to mention workshop names, I don't want a "which workshop is better thread" I couldn't find the info with search