Busky2k

You are thinking of static shock? Probably not the coilpacks...

The length difference between the BKR (ISO tip) and BCPR (JIS tip) series is the length from the base to the insulator end (ie where the coil attaches to). The electrode etc are identical. I have used both JIS and ISO types in my car with no differences (so long as the coil pack contacts the spark plug properly it shouldn't be a problem for anyway).

Well all I can tell you is that my car came with reset springs and they are next to completely stuffed. The front spring rate is a lot softer softer than stock and although it remains captive at full droop, it actually compresses so much the car sat on the bump stops. The rear is stiff as, much stiffer than they should be. It basically is rock solid. The springs were Eibachs which got reset by the old owner. So yeah.. I don't recommend it. Whiteline springs in my experience are not much harder than stock and are definitely worth looking at.

Absolutely no problem using 6s in the NEO. If you've got a few mods, the 6 would be a better choice anyway.

Wow. Congrats! Thats a real nice result!

Blowing up an RB25 box eh... damn! GCG highflow + PowerFC once your back on the road!

Windy up here on the coast too... 380km away.

Well the K104s generally do OK in Magazine tests etc (middle of the pack). But the BFYB is up there with the best. If anything I have NEVER seen Toyo T1R/T1S be in the top 3. They're always on the bottom yet people rave about them so much.. so there we go lol. So conflicting data just like the K104s. The Hankook RS2 enjoys good feedback by Auto-Xers from NASIOC and EvoM. In fact I haven't even seen a bad review, and there are plenty. I haven't surf other site though however the general consesus is that some prefer the RS2, others the RT615. But the main point is that they are much cheaper than the RT615s. I rang up once for the RS2 in 235/40/18 and it was $250. Pretty cheap! The Azenis were twice the price... ($480 or something ridiculous?) so it would be hard to justify the extra cost for say 10% better performance. We have to remember these 2 tyres do not excel in wet conditions. Btw in the link I find it odd he says the RT615 is better in the wet than the RS2 when its regarded by many as very very poor. But at the end of the day as I mentioned people have preference for either, BUT BYFB the RS2 is a winner! Btw I found this interesting; (The Car and Driver max performance shootout) Braking 50-0 mph, feet: Yokohama Advan Neova AD07 69.1 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 73.4 BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD 74.7 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 76.6 Bridgestone Potenza RE050A 77.9 Kumho Ecsta MX 78.1 Pirelli P Zero Rosso Asimmetrico 78.3 Toyo Proxes T1R 78.4 Continental ContiSportContact 2 78.5 Dunlop SP Sport Maxx 78.5 Hankook Hankook Ventus R-S2 Z212 80.6 Autocross, seconds: Yokohama Advan Neova AD07 29.66 BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD 29.76 Hankook Ventus R-S2 Z212 29.86 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 29.92 Pirelli P Zero Rosso Asimmetrico 30.03 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 30.05 Bridgestone Potenza RE050A 30.10 Dunlop SP Sport Maxx 30.16 Kumho Ecsta MX 30.28 Continental ContiSportContact 2 30.30 Toyo Proxes T1R 30.67 Skidpad, g: BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD .95 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 .94 Yokohama Advan Neova AD07 .94 Hankook Ventus R-S2 Z212 .94 Bridgestone Potenza RE050A .93 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 .93 Continental ContiSportContact 2 .92 Dunlop SP Sport Maxx .92 Kumho Ecsta MX .92 Pirelli P Zero Rosso Asimmetrico .92 Toyo Proxes T1R .88 (Pity the RS2 bottoms the braking score which is very odd because noone has said anything about that in forum experience). Oh yeah and not suprisingly, the Toyo is at the bottom once again. When my Toyos are gone, RS2s are going on for sure.

I'm not arguing that RP is a good oil, but I'm no so sure how oil can change the note of your exhaust. Placebo effect at its finest!

This is covered everyweek. If you search there is plenty of info. And yeah the GCG highflow would be your best option.

By the sounds of it, Grepin would have used the 0.87 housing? Also its great news that they have made an integral wastegate for the GT30 series turbos, especially with that dump pipe flange. Very interesting. I reckon I'll be testing the water with this "new" arrangement soon..

Don't forget about drivetrain losses, which would be worse off with the R33. Love to see what the MPS puts out at the wheels. I'd take a stab and say at least 150fwkw.

I'd say go the K104s. They are a good tyre from what I had. However they have a new model, the soft compound RS2 which is meant to be a good competitor to the Azenis RT615s. I'll be giving them a go next...

Never been a fan of metal or foam based filters. You want the filter to do its job, ie filter the air. And its so true that dirt in your engine accelerates wear. Its even easy to tell if you got a leaking air filter through an _oil_ analysis! I believe its well worth trading a couple of rwkw for a filter that filters better.

I'll third that motion.

Put me down for a H11 Kit, in 4300K (for a mate). Cheers mate.

^^ You sure? IIRC it can't even cut a 100mph 1/4 mile. Someone correct me on that...

I reckon the Apex'is are the same as the NISMO (as with the Tomei and HKS too). This is because they are all made by the same manufacturer but for the life of me I cant remember who. (Anyone wanna chime in?) Anyways the only real difference is the box they come in. I'd grab whatever is cheaper. I'd be keeping away from SARDs though as they are rotary injectors and their spray patterns are poo (Nippon Denso based).

Man I've never seen anything so damn cool!!!!!!!! Imagine having this set up for GT3 aswell, absolutely mad!

8K is getting pretty coloured and you loose light output. 6K personally as far as you'd wanna go. Hey can you get H11s in 4300K?

Actually don't heat wrap it cos all your doing is keeping the heat in, and making it more prone to cracking due to higher skin temperatures. Moreover wrapping is never uniform, which doesn't really help either. Ceramically coat it I say! I did that with a SSA cheapy one I had and it worked well for the few years I had it...

^^ Only question is, how long will it take before it cracks... the designs look half decent though I have to admit.

lol vange. Drink n drive and have the best of both worlds.

Karma mate. Those guys will be f**ked up some day, no doubt.

Let us know how the Gear 300 goes Kinks. aquariuz6, Shockproof is not for auto transmissions. Daboss, heavy weight shockproof is for racing applications where the diff/trans sees very high temps. My bet is using on the street will result in worse shifting. Try the lightweight, as the super lightweight may be a tad thin.