Busky2k

I suggest running an engine flush to help dissolve any sludge in the valve train, and running xxW-30 oil ... However I thought the RB engines dont use lifters because it is a bucket and shim style valvetrain (unlike the SR20). So the ticking might be coming from something else.. not 100% sure tho on this.

The SAFC will not change fuel economy of a car, cos at low rpm where the car spends most of its time, the ECU is running closed loop (and the SAFC's low throttle map corrections are cancelled out in the end) Only at WOT if your leaning it out some gains are to be had, but WOT chews fuel anyway!!! My fuel economy got worse when I got my SAFC, because I put my foot down alot more now

Heh any engine will blow w/o oil. Ferrari, RB or Booooonga!! Didnt think it would throw a rod tho! Crazy...

Apprently GFB refuse to make a pulley kit for the RB engines because it will comprimise the engine longetivity wise.. "However, this is not the case for all engines, many of them do require the use of the harmonic balancer to prevent failure. Skylines with the RB20, 25 and 26 are a good example of this, which is why we don't make a pulley kit for them." A lightened flywheel is a much better mod (a lot more rotational inertia is relieved from a lightened flywheel than a pulley!)

Nah I wouldnt call it an electric choke.. but basically the ECU runs the engine richer and bleeds more air past the throttle blades, which is like the choke of the old.. =)

LOL it depends really on the drving style. Sometimes I can almost go sideways into the next lane. Its pretty damn scary sometimes.. only happens at nigh tho weirdly!.. And Yeah i've gotten a 4 wheel alignment recently.. LOL

JimX, I get it at Motrex. http://www.motrex.com.au/ (Athol Park) 10W-60 is wayyy to thick for a skyline. Maybe good for a smoke blowing Sigma. I reckon 40wt is excellent for a skyline engine with some ks on it, and also good for our hot summers. 30wt is getting on the thin side, its only good for friction reduction hence the "high revving 4 cyls". The film strength of a 30wt is not good enough for a turbo car driven hard. 50wt+ is too thick and your oil/bearings will run unneccesaily hotter in anything but a track/race car. Newer RB/SR engines have tighter clearances than engines of old. I wouldnt worry about the xxW rating so much, cos it doesnt get too cold during winter. 0W still being the most favourable, but I wouldnt go higher than 10W. As you can see, the Mobil 1 0W-40 has both bases covered, and meets some of the toughest OEM specs on the market such as MB 229.5 (Only 7 oils in the _world_ are MB 229.5 certified) so its definately safe to use for longer intervals (eg 10k+) It also is very good in terms of friction reduction. On top of that, M1 is a true Grp IV synthetic, unlike Castrol which only uses GrpIII oil bases which is basically just ultra refined petroluem oil (cheaper to make, but its not reflected in the RRP). So why pay more? There is Motul 300V and Redline, which are even better again, but I think its gettin a bit expensive for a street car... M1 will do u just fine! I dont claim to be an oil expert, just stating what I know, but if any more questions feel free to ask..

Mobil 0W-40 Trisynth is one of the best oils you can get. Has the ideal viscosity for both cold and hot. The turbo spooled up alot easier with M1 than the GTX3 shit that my car came with when i bought it.. and was quieter at idle too. I get it for $13/L at my local mobil distributor. Its factory fill in all Porsche etc. Cant go wrong there man!!

Hmm, perhaps you should have used Redline MTL or MT90. They are the ones that were designed from the start to give you better shifting, not Shockproof (even tho it does a good job too). If it was ATF, it does give good shifting being really a hell thin viscocity, but it ****s up your box pretty badly after a while, because ATF does not contain the proper extreme additive protection that gears require.

Ashtray job here too.. =) Might move it to the glovebox for security reasons tho, but I dont wanna drive around with the 'box open all the time! LOL

When I wanted to get a touch up paint a while back I just went to a paint mixing place (specialised in it). They asked for my car and paint code and the next day they had the paint in a can. Exactly matched.. 20 bucks from memory.

I run toluene whenever I know im gonna drive my car hard; ie cruises etc. I use ~15% mix. Makes a good deal of difference, however for me its just as an extra measure of protection against detonation. Every little bit helps! I'd rather use Toluene than a Octane Booster cos toluene is the real deal, doesnt coat ur plugs and leave deposits in your combustion chamber, and I know it works. Ive read _some_ octane boosters just "change" the sound of detonation (ie modify the flame front), so you cant hear it... Im not takin risks with that, true or not. F1 cars used Toluene (albeit at a much higher conc tho). Cant go wrong there... =)

I wouldnt pay any more than 100 bucks to get the SAFC tuned, and 100 bucks installed. You should considering DIY installation. I did and Its not very hard, and u can pocket 100 bucks =) THe tune would only take about 10 minutes. Very easy to map on the SAFC!

So the thrust bearing is or isnt part of the gearbox? I would replace it when i get my stock clutch changed (almost gone). But im not willing to pay to get the gearbox pulled apart to get it fixed.. I can live with the noise. Sorta sounds like a dog box when u drive hehe

Wow thats some pretty nice figures you got there dood! I hope I dont pull up to you at the lights!! haha Dumb question, but isnt Subzero an interstate company?

STI, purely cos for the mods you can do to a turbo!!! The MY03 looks pretty nice too...

Yeah my 200SX has the same noise. A whirring sound at standstill and foot off the clutch. Spins down to nothing when u hit the clutch. Also its audiable when ur drivin too! My clutch is almost gone so i'll replace both in 1 go. At first i thought it might have been the input shaft bearing, but im pretty convinced its not!

One of the best on the market is Redline SI-1 Cleaner. I would give that a shot. Its ~18 bucks. Its not your typical solvent style cleaner (heat activated detergent) so it wont clean out your petrol tank aswell.. go to www.redlineoil.com to get some more info about it.. If you cant find it, Nulons Total Fuel System Cleaner works well too.

Im thinking of running 7's aswell, considering i've powered up my SR20DET by ~60% over stock. Surely I should go one colder? Cos i read everywhere that ever 75-100hp increase u go 1 range colder. I might just go buy 1 colder copper plug (Heat/R 7) see how it goes. So if it fouls up, at least the car will hopefully still be fine.. Maybe thats an idea for everyone! =)

LOL told you man, its not reliable at all!! I wound the timing way back as an experiment and it still showed knocking. WTF? And as i said b4, I disconnected the knock sensor once and it still said i was knocking.. heh. =( I'd just leave the settings at 70/90. Just when u boost it, make sure it doesnt go >150 (over the noise value) or some high figure like that!! Usually the ECU will wind back the timing if it senses knock anyway, so usually fat knocking wont occur in the first place unless the ECU cannot retard the timing any more. The SAFC might be confusing knock for engine noise at high RPM.. Im gonna take a look at Link's KnockLink. Looks good!!

Go here to get the knock function working, but as I said before, its about as reliable as dogshit!! http://www.prostreetonline.com/pso/pages/h....asp?sessionId= Sensor Chk is the raw reading of the knock level. What you see during monitoring is any knock value that is HIGHER than what has been set in Knk Level. Ie so if the raw reading is 60 from the sensor, and the Knk Level been set to 50 (as background noise at that particular rpm), it'll report 10 to you!! Read the link and it hopefully will clarify things. But still, i reckon the whole knock feature doesnt work. Might work properly with a separate knock unit from Apexi. Let me know about switching maps too. Even just make two different files and switch between them while the car is off..

I got a SAFC II hooked up to my S14 SR20DET. I reckon the knock readout is completely haywire. The best way to check it is to go to the "sensor chk" and get a direct reading. I get around 50 when idling and it goes higher as revs rise/engine warms up. I reckon the readout is complete shit as I can floor it at 3500 rpm or 2500 where knock would occur and it stays exactly the same, not even 1 unit count higher. Then I unplugged the det. sensor, and put a resistor on the harness and left it. And guess what. The readings were the same! WTF? How can it even get any readings if its not even hooked up? Sometimes it would show a value of 50 and then I swtich the car off. And it drops to 45. It should go to zero cos the engine is OFF!! I cant figure it out either, so I disregard the knock sensor input. Hey btw, do you sometimes get trouble switching between File 1 and 2? I sometimes find switching between them CLEARS all my settings!!!!!!! Pisses me off.. Blah =( The 2 maps/knock sensor reading is the reason i got the II over the original SAFC =(

The only fuel guaranteed to be 98RON is BP Ultimate. The rest dont i've heard.. A few ppl have tested teh stuff in the lab and BP/U always comes out on top.. But i think its a co-incidence that your car is stuffing up after filling up with Optimax however.

Make sure the car is level when u fill it! If your filling it with the front end jacked up, then you're gonna be putting more oil than actually required, cos the oil will tip towards the back of the case. What i find is to try and slowly fill it up, and when u can feel it a bit below the filler whole, remove the jack and let any excess spew out the hole into a oil tray. Messy, but works.. Or just go to a Ultratune or something and get them to do it while its on a car lifter thingo..

Just go to www.apexi-usa.com and download the instructions for the original SAFC. The new one is basically the same and you can figure out the new options by urself anyway. Btw, the wiring is exactly the same, besides the additional purple wire which is for the knock sensor!