Busky2k

Most cars idle at 1500rpm in neutral when they are started cold.

Redline MTL was designed for the best syncro operation, so you might give that shot if thats your priority. Shookproof wasnt designed for this, but it seems to work quite well tho. I use Castrol Syntrans, it was notiably better than the stock fluid. Then I put a tube of Nulon G70 and that did stuff all.. I might change the whole lot out and put some MTL or Motul Gear 300 in when summer comes around!!!

Stick with the OEM ones. They are good! Spend more money on better oil instead like the latest Mobil 1 with SuperSyn!

The pressure was low because ur oil was very hot and thus thinned out ----> lower pressure. I would suggest using xW-40 oil if you drive your car hard!! If your pressure drops very low, just keep the revs up to keep the pressure going...

Does the Profec II also show vacuum in real time?

Hey there JimX, its probably not what you want to hear, but Heavyweight Shockproof wasnt really primarily designed to give you good shifting. Its bloody thick. Redline's MTL/MT90 are the fluids which help boxes with dead synchros. I reckon you should give the MTL a shot before you pull the box out. And if it doesnt make enough difference to convince you not to pull the box, at least you can drain the oil and use it again when you get your box rebuilt!!!

"MINE" on a S15, owned by some rich ass P plater. Looked like an arrogant bitch.. "CNWEEP" on a stock VX SS. Damn I wish i could line him up haha

Ive heard the whiteline springs are very good. They lower your car almost dead on the limit of 100mm and the S15s are low to begin with so you dont have much room to play with. Im getting a set for my S14 shortly, so I'll see how they go...

I just get one of those oil pumps and remove as much fluid from the reservoir as i can. Then i fill it up, and run the engine for a coupla minutes and then repeat about 2 - 3 times until the fluid is bright red like the ATF im putting in! The manual never mentions anything about replacing PS Fluid but I do it every coupla years or so just to make sure.

Ive got a fairly large Lukey 3" S/S straight thru oval muffler (too big to be a resonator) in the middle. Does an awesome job of getting rid of the droning, and it sounds hell deep with zero raspiness on my SR20DET. Worlds better than other SRs that have no resonators at all...

If your gonna consider putting a larger set of cams in, you might aswell get some headwork done to also compliment them. Btw I thought increase overlap wasnt beneficial in forced induction engines?

Sounds like a misfire to me. Check your plugs and get ur coil packs tested. And a good AFM clean might help!

I have a set of cheap Firestone 255/17s on the back of my car. I hate them. They dont grip for shit, especially for 255s. But then again you get what you pay for. Quality 255s cost alot more than 200 bucks unforunately. Im thinking of downsizing to a quality 235 tire if its possible to such as the Bridgestone Potenza GIII. A good 235 tyre like this will easily outperform a dodgy 255 for sure.

Ive never had a problem running BP Ultimate. The cleanest fuel too which is a bonus =)

Hehe there isnt one in the Aus Spec 200SXs... But yeah what a fool. Im suprised he got pulled over. At that speed I'd probably just keep on going since im screwed anyway!!

That switch on the handle thing is a very good idea. Kinda reminds me of the handles of old maximas ( i think) that had a key pad on the door handle! So you had to type in the code to open it. No key hole to **** with =)

Yeah i would definately go this time if there is another comin up! But I doubt it with all the shitty weather keeps up for a while..

I would say the negative impacts of a shorter diff is fuel economy and perhaps engine wear as the engine has to rev more to the same speed in each gear..

I wouldnt think there would be a direct performance gain. The main reason you use it is so you dont get oil shitting up your intake/intercooler. Also the oil can contribute detonation on cars with alot of blowby, but i wouldnt go advancing the timing or anything like that after I installed a OAS.

Check your oil for water.. Does it look sorta cloudy at all? That could prove that ur headgasket is gone.. Or perhaps ur head is cracked, or your hoses leak very slowly under pressure (ie engine hot). There are many possibilites...

Im interested in knowing aswell. But i would probably stick to the tried and tested jap brands.... I dont like how the e-Boost is in a circular bezel. How are you supposed to mount the sucker if you dont want to pillar mount it? Its too big IMO to pillar mount.. Prolly mount it under the steering wheel or something..

I was in the same dilemma 4 months ago when I got my car. My budget was 18-20k. S14 200SX or R32? I ended up gettin the 200SX beacuse; -it was a newer car (96 vs 91) -got a service history -more likely not to have been trashed -skylines are everywhere around here -the interior is nicer -local parts However the R32 had; -a nicer soundin engine -tougher looks Thats about it.. but its up to eveyrones personal preference. Reason #1 swayed me the most. I dont regret buyin a 200SX whatsoever Every R32 i saw in the yard had cig marks in their interior, included parts that says 'ive been trahsed in japan', and most import yard guys were tossers.

I do work with chemistry every day at uni. I dont see how you can "align" fuel molecules. Fuel is a bunch of saturated and unsaturated hyrdocarbons. They are not polar whatsoever. So to to align them using some magnet is just a joke. Try sellin this to any seasoned chemist... However the other ones that release stuff into the fuel like Tin may do somethin, but aligning fuel molecules.. haha.. I should keep quiet now

Yes but auto trans fluid will destroy your box over time. It doesnt contain the extreme pressure additives that gear oil does.. So your gears will start pitting and ur syncros will get knackered sooner or later!! You should try VMX80 instead. Its pretty thin!! I would only use ATF if the box required it.. Btw I tried Nulon G70 in my box. Hardly made a difference and ive done 2000ks on it since. I'll just leave it in there tho. May work for others!

Hmm. I found that if i dont use a new copper washer, engine oil slowly drips out. Ie like 1 drip a week on my old car..