Busky2k

You'd need one if you wanna bump up the fuel pressures because you want more fuel flow. Its really more of a bandaid to try and avoid getting bigger injectors, but if set up properly, it works quite well.

Sydneykid, I wouldnt mind a PFC if I had the money of course I picked up the stuff for cheap, both the SAFC II (new) and SITC (2nd hand) for $800. I dont have to worry about a speed cut defender because my car is Aus spec or boost cut defender since the SAFC does that (ie leans out the AFM signal). If I want a PFC and Handset, Im looking at at least 1500 2nd hand, and 400-500 for the tune. I know it'll be better, but I dont think im gonna gain much in terms of power as the Ign Timing and AFRs are almost perfect at WOT as is!! Hell I dont even have a FMIC yet... LOL I understand where your coming from, because I would have got a PFC + tune If i had 2k to outlay. But I dont, and probably wouldnt anytime soon. I went the piggy back route beacuse its alot easier on my pocket. Btw the SAFC has 12 RPM points and automatically interpolates between the low and high THR map aswell. I would completely agree with you if I had a JSpec Skyline tho! And, if i had more mods. So far, my piggy backs are just fine Bigger turbo tho, and hell yeah, goodbye piggybacks, hello PFC

Water Injection is one of the best ways to help prevent detonation. But dont just spray it into your turbo. You'll erode your compressor blades before you know it. You need to use a high pressure pump/atomiser sprayed after the intercooler. Go to www.aquamist.co.uk for more info. FYI, i have waterinjection, and its bloody excellent.

Well I cant quantitate the noise really. But all I know is that i've compared it to a few other SR20s w/o a center muffler and mines alot quieter. Whether its legal or not, I dont know. Its still probably not. Since when is any 3" free flowing exhaust fully legal? haha And yes, it included the dump/front pipe too.

Yeah the ITC is a great lil device. So i have the poor mans adjustable ECU. SAFC and SITC. Does the job I guess, but I cant really fork out another 2k to get a PFC + Handset + Dyno Tune.

Dont want to sound mean bro, but do a search under safc and knock! They'res plenty of info.... Otherwise i'll post up some links for ya!

Yeah just make sure you do a peak hold after your WOT run. Sometimes pinging might be too quick to show up. So just flick the joystick up after to make sure. Ive remembered plenty of times the peak hold showing like 100 but i never actually saw it just by watching. I believe its beceause as soon as the ECU saw the crazy pinging, it backed the timing right off, before I could see it on the display.

Yeah see how the exhaust valve goes, altho one of the other guys I know just installed a Apexi one and he said it didnt work as well as he hoped...

Sorry guys, cant help you. Im a S14 boy =P If you have a workshop manual, it'll show you some. Otherwise look for points where the engine is wired to the wirewall and stuff. Also other points where u see grounding wires to the plenum. Also give the negative terminal of ur battery a good scrub as well as the fat negative lead that leads to the chassis.

Apparently high amounts of sulphur in fuel can really cause a lot of wear at start up, because it forms sulphuric acid which attacks the metal during cold engine conditions. It was in some study in Japan or something like that... I'll dig it up soon. This reason alone makes me not use Optimax. Extra engine wear for nothin!

Probably the best thing to do is just to disconnect earthing points on your engine/chassis and give them a file down and clean.

Glad to hear your car is finally outta jail EnricoPalazzo, after regency having burned a big hole in your pocket!! Perhaps you can get a mid muffler (not resonator) installed between your cat and rear cannon. I have one. It really does help with the noise compared to cars with just a cat n cannon.

If you really wanna do this, just buy 10m of 8ga cable from Jaycar and earth all the appropriate points. Then with the 250 you save, put that into petrol for cruising

Yeah Im pretty happy with them! Whats funny is they supply the mandrel bends to places like ET and D&T. I got a cannon style rear muffler, Super Cat brand.. Its good enough. Fully polished S/S. I didnt see the point paying another 300 for an Apexi one. Also the price included a S/S 3" mid muffer aswell. (Proper one, not a resonator!) The dump pipe I have is just a plain ol 3" one. It was $400 but I think what you can do Is buy a FLYN split dump or something like that, bring it in, and get them to make up the rest from there. They really did some top quality work. I went to them after I saw a friends S13 with the same exhaust on his car. ld recommend them to anyone.....

I got mine done at AAA exhaust. They have a mandrel bending machine on site so that means they dont have to sit there and weld up prebent pipes. I got mine done full SS turbo back for 1100 from them. Top quality work, not a weld insight, wouldnt think about going anywhere else frankly.

Yeah just pull the negative lead from the battery and then stab the brake pedal for a coupla seconds and its done...

Nah not a fan of it. Sorry. They belong on a bloody lancer!

Hmmm was it detonation that killed your engine then 9krpm? It seems that way, by the sounds of it. Or your plugs werent cold enough. Shucks. Such a nice engine gone to waste....

By the sounds of it your engine oil turned to water and thus you lost the bearing. I take it you still run the factory fuel economy 5W-30 oil, and that kind of oil will not protect your engine sufficiently once the engine oil temps rocket. You should have been using 40wt minimum! I wouldnt have even driven the car once the oil temps went past 115C!! 134C.. pwoah.... Stuff like Redline with lots of Moly in the oil may have saved your hide. Changing the oil out after mallala would have made no difference if the damage was done. Or as Munro said, you suffered oil surge. Did you check your oil level before you went to VH? Sorry to hear bro... Good luck with the new engine. I'd hate to think of how much the repair will be.... My friend who had a top end rebuild on a B18C got his done at Formula Honda. Of the mechanics is from japan I believe. He knows what hes doing...

I think the main difference between B Spec & B Spec II is that the Spec II has an inbuilt digital boost gauge, and the otherone doesnt.

Well that would work, but I dont see the point of pouring water thats 60C onto an intercooler thats 30C at all. You guys can work that out....

Ive used both Meguiars 3 step as well as the 3 step from Mothers, Both were pretty good, but I reckon the meguiars was slightly better overall. I use everything meguiars, from car wash to interior gloss. They make the best shit! Btw, their final finish stuff is good stuff! I use it mainly to get rid of water marks on the paintwork after a wash. You cant dry everythin =(

You shouldnt be taking the raw values from Sensor Chk! Only thru the KNK values during 'monitor' mode! Thats why you calibirate the monitor mode's value. If you read the manual, it says the raw values are wrong, and should not be taken into account. It is the 'unprocessed data' from the microphone so to speak. Btw you probably wont see any values during WOT because any values will be too quick to show up. If your lucky you might see a number quickly flash up. The best way to check is to do a peak hold reading after the trash. If your numbers are pretty high, then you had pinging. If they are <10, or around the value you have during idle, then you are safe! Even tho I have an SR20DET, my values in the KNK Set is 119 and 136.

First of all, guys you shouldnt get huge numbers like 80 while idling. Otherwise your calibration is wrong. Go to www.apexi-usa.com to get the SAFC II manual! Btw u need the jap language pack, even tho there is no jap in the PDF? lol Anyways, the higest ive seen is 20 at idle, but at cruising speeds, its zero which is most important. After a WOT blast i might get 25 or so, which indicates 25 - 20 = 5 knock counts during the WOT blast. Thats nothign to worry about. If its like 80 after the WOT blast, then pinging is at hand!

Bad readings are when your talking 50+ over the IDLE figure. So if your getting say 20, and its a hot day, and you get 100 (via peak hold) after a WOT blast, then you have knocking. If the peak is only a lil more, then there is nothing to worry about. Also dw about the idle figures as they rise with temp. NFI why tho. But the engine isnt knocking.