Busky2k

Hey man. $5 for the RB26DETT. PM me if you are interested. Free postage would sweeten the deal considerably. Anyways seriously, when I was young about 4 years ago I ploughed my dads car through a fence tryin to get some sideways action. Noone could imagine the shame of having to knock on that persons door saying ur the one who did it. Never since that day have I tried anymore wreckless drifting or tryin to get sideways. It just too easy for something to go wrong. Some people learn the hard way, and some even harder, but unfortunatly, thats the way it is... Gluck with everything.

Did you get a proper mid muffler installed or a resonator? I told you resonators dont do shit!!!!!!!! =P

Nissans use the 'hot wire' method. To get the english manual, go to www.apexi-usa.com Make sure you have adobe acrobat with the Japanese font pack plug in installed.

They use ethanol in their petrol, upto 20% or something like this. Ethanol is definitely not the same as Methanol you use at the drags...

I'd stick with 1 bar, and any more and I suggeset you visit a dyno to make sure your engine can take more...

I dont think it'll make a difference, as all the ECU is doing is rapidly opening and closing the circut.... But sorry, I couldnt find anything in my workshop manual about polarities. (altho it is a 200SX) so would assume it should be ok either way.

You need to download the Japanese font pack for Acrobat, otherwise it will display nothing! Dont worry, its still all in english!

Yeah I do! The GFB Atomic... Works well enough for the price. Spikes a little, like when you floor it at high RPM, but otherwise the boost is quite stable. I wouldnt mind an EBC, but that'll come later as i'd rather do something else with $600-800 frankly...

Damn thats no good news Andrew. Where did this horrible fuel come from?? Its probably a good idea to get your fuel filter changed too. Btw I'll have my FMIC in by then, but damn, I wont be available on the 25th for a boosty. Shucks.. next time!

Heres a nice cool graph of the various flow vs pressure of the walbro pumps I came across; (Although it doesnt agree with the tables from other websites) http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/example4.gif

-25-40mm means thats how much it'll roughly lower your car compared to stock. They generalise by say 25-40mm for all their products, so you dont really have a choice. The springs only come in the Control range, and the 'Super Low' range if thats applicable to your car which I doubt. Its best to email them to find out just how much the springs will lower your car. -It should fit on the GAB shocks no worries -Go to www.phillcomrally.com and fire off an email to them. They'll get the stuff for you cheaper than from Whiteline Direct!! -Anyone can fit the stuff, just take it to any suspension place, like Pedders or whatevers..

Im not an expert either, but the 2 situations are very similar, but then again, very different aswell. People can use the word 'preiginition' for 'detonation' since it covers the same principle; the mixture is ignited other than from the spark plug, but there are differences which separate the two. Preignition; eg, switching a carby car off and the thing still runs for a few more seconds, because the fuel is still being ignited by a glowing hot valve or spark plug. Sorta like dieseling itself so to speak, and there is only 1 flame frount coming from the hot source and burns evenly. It doesnt cause damage usually, unless preignition is occuring during normal operation and its the same as running way too much ignition advance like described below. Detonation; This is where the pressures in the cylinders spike to extremely dangerous levels. As i described before, its cause by autoignition of 1 part of the mixture near the cylinder wall or piston and the flame front begins to travel upwards in the same direction as the piston. Then the spark plug fires the other unused portion of the mixture and now you have 2 flame fronts. One going up, the other travelling down. When they collide.. Its a big bang and cylinder pressures go through the roof. This is whats damaging. Detonation is caused by unstable fuel mixtures (ie too lean, too high boost) at WOT and this causes _parts_ of it to autoignite on its own, not by a spark, or glowing valves/spark plugs. (Also to note, preignition can lead to detonation, but usually we boys dont usually have problems with glowing spark plugs etc so we can discount this factor.) Also too much ignition advance is quite similar, but this is also coined detonation since your igniting the mixture too early and it can hit the piston before it reaches TDC. Piston going up, flame front going down.. u get the picture. Also too much ignition advance can cause it to burn unevenly when the cylinder VE is high. (ie more boost). I dont claim what i say is 100% correct, but this is what Ive read on a few times and what I understand... For futher reading, check out this nice little summary I found (after I wrote this, doh! now I cbb fixing what i wrote) http://www.turboice.net/documents/turbowhi...paper/knock.htm

Also give the AAC valve a good lube up while its off.

Preignition and detonation are different things. Preignition is just when the complete fuel mixture starts to burn before the spark plug ignites, usually caused by glowing sparkplugs, valves and whatnot. Detonation is when a portion of the mixture autoignites away from the spark plug, then the rest is ignited later on by the spark plug. Then you have two flame fronts, which eventually collide, causing massive cylinder pressure spikes and shockwaves. Then this hits the pistons/cylinderwall/etc and this is the pinging noise that you hear. Its the shockwave that kills the parts.

Make sure the injectors arent firing fuel into the cylinders or this screws up the readings. Best way to do this is to pull the fuel pump fuse when idling and let it just die..

Im surpised D&T did such a bad job. I thought they would have used an 'off the shelf' dump/front pipe kit because its much easier and better. Looks like D&T isnt the place to go to then. They look more like a V8 place anyway...

[ant], sounds to me like the new plugs made the difference, not the ECU reset. Especially on such an ancient ECU.

Got it done at AAA eh? Good stuff!! Tell us what you got done, what you thought of it.. hehe Im suprised you paid 1400 tho. I guess they probably realised by now they were underselling themselves compared to the competition!

One guy said he unhooked the return hose from the stock BOV while the car was on the dyno, and he couldnt feel any leaking occuring on his 180SX while on boost. I'll have to dig that post up again...

Yeah looks like the more boost gave it a tad more power. But nevertheless, its more consistant aswell, which is important! It looks like your running a bleeder.. is that true?

Nah you'll definitely need an aftermarket ECU as the ECU will just pulse your new injectors like before and and you'll be overfueling BIG TIME.

The way I used Toluene was just added it into my tank at the anticipated mix ratio, and drive down to the servo. I didnt wanna muck around with toluene at the pump itself, and I didnt wanna add it afterwards, cos I want a thorough mixing. I use a 15% ratio. Toluene is the best octane booster I've ever used. And it doesnt foul your plugs like that other off the shelf shit did. I bought a 20L drum of it. It should definitely last over a year, since its quite pure and just make sure its sealed tight.

Freebaggin, very interesting stuff indeed. Btw Im interested in seeing the boost curves. It seems as if the latter run was running a smidgen more boost, well just seems like it anyway... Good stuff!!!

Your injectors still fired at 90psi? Pretty good I think, but just watch out.. What fuel pump are you using?

Yeah yeah I acknowledge the PFC is far superior! But I didnt buy them both at the same time. Initally I had the SAFC for $600, tune was $50, and that was great. Then 12 months later I grabbed the SITC for $200, to save me always screwing with the CAS... I couldnt afford at the time the outlay for the PFC + Tuning for ~2k at the time all in one go. I havent seen an S14 PFC with commander for less than $1400, and Ive been shoppin. I would want the commander, as its the live adjustability to timing etc that I like. Eg when I put toluene in the tank, when its a hot day etc etc... It all comes down to how much you wanna spend really. And I dont see the point upgrading, as I probaly wouldnt get more than $500 for the gear. So I still need another $1000 easily... not exactly BYFB with a car thats still fairly stock, and I dont plan on a Z32/Bigger Injectors/etc... Looking back on it, i shoulda just saved more when before I bought the SAFC, but yeah, too late huh? Im still quite happy as it is now anyways... Im still a student, so you can consider me a bean counter *sob*