Busky2k

If these turbos are this bad then powerdigger would pull them off the shelf immediately...

Wow thats not much idle vacuum. Didnt think the HKS cams woulda reduced it by that much.. crooser's suggestion is very good. Also check out the voltage under load with the lights and accessories on. Its funny how the PFC cannot actively adjust the idle if it drops due to one thing or another?

Do you have any idea what your idle vacuum is like with the load? Esp with the cams... Mine looses about 0.5mm/Hg from the base of 18 when the headlights is on... If you are loosing alot more vacuum, its something to think about...

Dont worry bro, every kind of car has a dickhead driving it one way or another, whether it'd be a commodore, lancer or skyline. The driver seems too wreckless to be an SAU member too.

Online. Ebay is one place, or look in Hot4s for some online stores which might have them.

In the old days indexing was good because the combustion chambers were not symetrical so you'd aid the gap towards the area with less (or more, cant remember) 'squish' in the CC. Nowadays with symmetrical pentroof designs, I'd say indexing wouldnt really matter much anymore, as the there is no unequal 'squish' area to aim the gap at. This is because the spark plug is in the middle of the CC, not on the outer edge ( like in the Ford Muscle article), so it shouldnt matter where its 'aimed' I'd say. But yeah, never hurts to experiment anyway....

Also the main problem is that lead lubed the valve seats aswell. W/o the lead, you get valve seat recession; basically where the seat wears away deeper into the head. So thats why all relatively recent cars have harder valve seats so they can tolerate unleaded fuels.

rbs13, your much better off getting a remap. The SAFC isnt designed to accomodate new injectors, let alone a bigger turbo on topetc. Remember, all you're doing is fooling the stock ECU, and it becomes a limitation itself eventually! It would help things quite a bit tho, and you can always sell the SAFC again after you're done.

Also the SAFC2 has joystick control & twin maps.

Very nice info. His info is really easy to understand. Martin Donnon said in one article that an 'tapered' chamber right after the turbo was beneficial. Seems this Garrett dood is all for it aswell. Also it seems the split dump still seems the best, and CES have got the right idea. Now all we need is a CES dump, with a tapered turbine outlet ... The perfect dump it might seem! Probably costs too much to make tho...

Just remove it and shine a torch through. It shouldnt be too hard to remove, otherwise a workshop could pull it off for a small fee.

A PM would be cool

Nulon turned my plugs a rusty colour aswell, so I dont think its just wynns. Toluene was great, no deposits at all. But be careful with the concentrations.

Thanks for the test BOOSTD. Proves BP Ultimate is the shit!

I'd say EGT's play quite an important role in turbo life. The hotter it is, the more likely the shaft will delaminate. So keep it a tad richer for saftey's sake I reckon...

I wouldnt say Optimax 'goes off' in 2 weeks. Thats ridiculous IMO. BP Ultimate says 1 year, and Im sure Optimax wouldnt be far off.... But yeah, never tried Optimax, and probably wont either!

Hmmm, Zahos, I spoke to NGK Tech a few months ago, and they said the BKRs are a better choice for SR/RBs cos i was wondering the same thing... Thus I use the BKR plugs, and have had with absolutely no problems...

Insurance maybe? Or maybe CheekyR32 is just kiddin haha

If you give the injector a continuous current, I reckon you would damage it as you are keeping the solenoid permanantly energised. (One of the many dangers of running injectors at 100% duty on a car). It needs to be properly pulsed, but dont ask me which tool! Sorry!

The GTR gets all of its power to the ground which gives it very nice 1/4 mile times. Also the GTR would have more power than the 206kw stated. I would speculate around 230kw stock.

I think if NGK dont have a -11 or any other number at the end of the model #, then the gap is 0.8mm.

You would definitely misfire on 1.2mm gaps if you have done some mods!

Heh i remember when I looked for a car, one dood in a caryard who shall remain nameless started up an R32. We immediately jumped in, and then he proceeded to wring the daylights outta the poor engine right outta the driveway, and the thing had only been on for about 15 seconds before WOT. Good stuff for engine wear... That was enough to convince me to stay away from that car!

kingscorp, some of your information is kinda wrong. So dont say we are completely wrong! Hehe Im not going to retype out the info so just go here for a real rundown of the API Grp listings. Grp I- solvent refined petroleum base stock. Grp II- hydrotreated petroleum base stock. More refined, with less gunk in it. More stable, and usually with a higher viscosity index. Chevron and pennzoil oils use nothing but this group in their oils. Grp III- "hydrocracked" or severely hydrofinished base stock. Castrol won the right for oil blenders to call this group "synthetic". Most OTC synthetics are made from this base. I think they use the same process to make it as GII, but take it a step further. Grp IV PAO base stock. Chemically produced from ethelene gas. True synthetic oil, and primary basestock used in mobil, amsoil and most top tier synthetics. Much more stable and has higher VI index than GIII. Can handle more extreme temps. Grp V ester base stock. used in most synthetic oils for miscibility, and is primary base used in redline and a few others. Extreme natural detergency and cleaning ability. Strong attraction to metal. Can withstand more extreme temps than PAO. FYI, a classic semisynth like Castrol Magnatec, Valvoline Durablend IS a mix of a Grp I and III oil altho the percentages can vary. It can be only 1 drop of synth per bottle and they can label it semi synthetic. Castrol GTX/2/3 etc are Grp 1 oils, and arent just chain lubes. Grp 2 oils are oils like Penzzoil Purebase, Group 3 includes Shell Helix Ultra, the cheaper Castrol R 5W-30. Grp 4 is Mobil 1 Supersyn, Castrol R 0W-40 etc and Grp 5 is Motul 300V, Redline etc. If you wanna know more about oils, go to this excellent resource; www.bobistheoilguy.com

Hmmm T28 on a GTST?