Busky2k

I dont think running colder water in the turbo lines will do jack. Cos all your doing is cooling down the turbo cartridge ever so slightly and the temp of the oil will easily offset this, not to mention all the shitload of heat coming from the turbo manifold and turbine housing. Best thing to do is get your turbine housing and turbo manifold HPC coated!!!!!

More often than not, the speedos accuracy past 200kmh can be pretty appalling. Best to estimate by judging RPM x gear used! Anyways never been past around 190. Not interested in top speed really!

See Bill at Adelaide Turbo Services (ATS). Look it up in the whitepages!

Yup the T25 flange is a bolt on for the SR20DET. It would also fit the CA18DET I believe. Adapter plates should be fine IMO, if they're made properly!

It should be ok if the facing is of the same size, and also the filter isnt much smaller than the OEM one.

Yoo man how come for sale dood?? It was a nice car!

Ive taken a look at its MSDS and there isnt anything suspect in there like Teflon or anything. So it looks safe enough to try!

Yeah I have a pal with a sigma for $650. Interested? It runs OK!! Looks good aswell...

I havent tried it myself but its definitely worth a shot if your lifters are clicky all the time.

I have an input shaft bearing problem. Basically got a nice whine to the box when the foot is off the clutch and in neutral. Added Nulon G70 and it did stuff all for the noise... Its been like this for 2 years, and I havent had any hiccups yet...

Yep sounds like one of your cylinders is shagged man. Best to do a compression test just to make sure before you hand over the money for a rebuild.

It will disable it, but the pressure will stay pegged at 43psi, and will not go below this. Best thing to do is set a base pressure of ~50psi on the new reg, so that when under vacuum the pressure will drop accordingly. However you will need to adjust the fueling to suit.

It depends on what model you get. But the 255lph pump should be enough for 300rwkw easily. Especially if its the high pressure vesion, which actually flows more than the Bosch 040. (112 lph vs 102 lph at 6.5bar) Go here for more specs; http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/...ml/fpspecs.html

On a dyno day last year an R32 with an 2510 pulled 19xrwkw. Not bad, and probably could get more from it too. And it would be super responsive!

I also had a screaming sorta noise coming from the turbo for the last month. I thought maybe the turbo wheels were scraping the housing. I sussed it all out, and found that all my nuts holding the turbo to the manifold were loose as! Gave them all a good tightening, and now no more noise! So check that out, or perhaps the turbo gasket is gone.

Nice pics man! People should invest in tripods more! You can slow the shutter speed right down to get awesome light backgrounds like the ones shown!

Nope everything is perfectly fine!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...hlight=shootout

I just put a set of these on the rear of my 200, in the 255/40/17 size. I havent really given them a real test yet as a few mentioned, they need a good few hundred ks to be run in. However I did give it a good squirt in first gear and wow this time I actually have grip and the car gooeess. With the shitty "Ultra HPR" junk on there before it was just wheelspin a plenty. Before a good clutch dump at 3k sent the car sideways, did it again and the car chirped and lauched very well. Ive only done like 50ks on these tyres, so hopefully things will get better. Recommended! Oh and they're alot quieter than the previous tires too!

Hey Andrew, yeah I got 1 from the group buy, and got it machined/coated. Its still sitting in my garage in glad wrap! Been like that for 2 months now! If you wanna check manifold itself and/or the coating job out, gimme a yell. But yeah group deal is the best way to go, singlely he quoted about 170ish, and cos I got 3 done, he did them for 120 with a dump pipe job thrown in for free! He's currently moving places, and I lost his card. However look it up in the whitepages, thats where he is!

Ive got 3 turbo manifolds ceramically coated at PowerKote a coupla months ago. Prices were pretty good and the guy is very friendly to work with. You cant do a manifold in silver because its not suited for super high temps and the alloy in the coating basically "boils out" as the guy said.

Bring it on! [email protected] Thanks!

The reason its not a good idea to wrap turbo manifolds is because you are trapping all the heat in the metal. Aftermarket turbo manifolds already run real hot and are fragile. Wrapping them is making your risk of cracking one alot higher. (Im not sure how you are going to wrap a cast item anyway, but they are more sturdy) Most places say dont even heat wrap your dump. The metal eventually crystallises and becomes very weak, altho mine is wrapped for a year now, its startin to look a bit odd I have to admit. I dont care if it busts cos Im going to replace it anyway.. Check this out; http://www.centuryperformance.com/heatwraps.asp Altho that applies to headers, its very good information. Its no coincidence that using heat wrap voids warranty from virtually all header manufacters.

As a reference I got my tubular manifold HPC coated for $120 ea... but thats cos I had 3 of them done at the same time. If you want pics, i'll post! But yeah I wouldnt wrap the exhaust manifold. Thats asking for trouble.

Very interesting data. It makes sense that the log style manifold spooled the turbo sooner, cos the runner length on the equal jobbie is pretty big... almost too big? Anyways, good stuff. Didnt think the gain would be so much tho...