Busky2k

I'll take the decepticon one. Looks better!

Use a Nissan filter. You cant go wrong with them.. I wouldnt trust Ryco. In my experience they are shit. Motul are a good oil company. Their 8100 series would be ideal for your car and you can easily do 10,000k intervals on those oils.

Just for a quick fix I use bendix advance on the fronts too. They're not bad, have good pedal feel, are dead silent and didnt fade to all hell like the stock Nissan pads did after a fang through the hills. But they left black marks on my rotor. Suppose I heated them up a fair bit.. Also they dont dust much. BUT they arent a high performance pad so if you fang your car lots, you need something better like Ultimates/RB74s/Ferodo DS2500s/EBC Green V4s.

Stick with 35 for starters and then play around with the pressures a tad. Like add 2 psi and take it for a drive and see how the steering response/comfort degredation changes. There is no golden rule for tyre pressures as it depends on the tyre, driver, car and driving style. However I wouldnt see the need for exceeding the mid 40s on the street.

someonestolecc, rear cannons dont muffle for shit compared to other designs, no matter what brand. Get a center muffler, that'll make worlds of a difference. I tend to find that the SR20s are far more drone prone than the RB series.

Unless you're running mega horsepower, I dont see the need for 2xZ32 AFMs. If its a GTR you could get away with RB20/25 AFMs unless you're makin some serious hp.

The US use a (MON+RON)/2 method. Not just MON. For all intent and purposes, our 98 octane stuff is around 92 "US" octane using the above method.

I would replace the resonator with a proper muffler. Resonators usually dont do shit cos they're just not big enough!! I have a Lukey 3" center muffler (offset but straight through) and it certianly is much quieter than ther SR's with no mufflers at all... My system is the same as yours otherwise (3" dump aswell tho) and I have zero resonating issues. Shouldnt cost you any more than 300 to get done.

Got the RB20 AFM lying around?

Going by some quick research, so long as you have quad pintle injectors like HKS/Nismo/Apexi then you should have zero problems with idle and fuel economy. It seems the RX7 and SARD injectors are the non-DOHC friendly types and thus you get what you pay for. It seems people with SR20s have had no problems with 740cc quad pintles!

Sorry but that image is extremely hard to read!! Anyways what I can make from it is that youve got some serious rear camber on the right (-3deg!). Go the bushes for sure. Otherwise everything else looks ok!

If you want another alternative, people on the board have been happy (including myself) with the Hankook Ventus K104s. Excellent for the price, and if you do a search, they do hold their own against the competition in the last MOTOR mag tyre shootout. From the figures, the K104 does do a admirable good job. The FK451 did even better. Sorry but I dont have any info on the sumitomo besides this survey in EVO Magazine (best to worst); 1) Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3 2) Toyo Proxes T1-S 3) ContiSportContact2 4) Michelin Pilot Sport 5) Dunlop SP Sport 9000 6) Pirelli PZero Nero 7) Bridgestone S-03 8) Hankook Ventus Sport K104 9) Yokohama AVS ES100 10) BF Goodrich g-Force TA KWD 11) Firestone Firehawk SZ50 EP 12) Kumho ECST Supra 712 13) Sumitomo HTRZ II

Yep after you've 'trained' the SAFC II for knock sensing, >60 is very slight knocking, 100ish is level that you should do something about, and getting towards 200 is gettin more serious (should be audiable by then). Make sure you 'train' the SAFC when the engine is fully warmed up. Btw, the knocking levels between the PowerFC and SAFC are different (dont ask me why). 60 on the Power FC would be doom for your engine...

Are RB25DET injectors the same as the SR20DET? Ie side feeds?

How much did that cost you fazt_r33?

You should be able to reprogram the PowerFC to use the AFMs. Im not so sure about the injectors, but I thought you could enter the size aswell?

B. 1 52mm gauge at the bottom of the pillar. Relatively non intrusive..

Any idea how much those lil packages cost??

You'll definitely need some alignment figures to work on. And I wouldnt waste my time with camber offset bushes. Just go the arms for a lil more money and you can install em yourself. $249 for new ones @ http://www.garage-13.com/suspension.html

Only problem IMO by exposing the pod to underneath the car is that it'll be collecting a shitload more dirt and perhaps even water in winter..

Someone said that BP Ultimate was actually refined in WA so it shouldnt affect the guys here in SA and stuff. So Im not sure how that will affect its availability over on the eastern states... If you do run out, try to source some toluene and use a 10% treatment rate with Vortex or something.. Doesnt leave deposits all over your combustion chambers/turbo/plugs like MMT based boosters do (like nulon and wynns).

I have a GFB atomic. Works well for a bleeder but spikes a bit at 1bar. But I dont think any bleeder can solve that problem..

How much extra power did you get with the cams, whatisname?

I'd probably use a GT3071R or a GT2871R (a lil less laggy). They should both get you to your power targets.

Definitely get a catch can. There is no reason in the world not to have one! (well except for defects haha)