Busky2k

At -4 deg camber you are going to wear out your tyres quick smart. Zero toe at the front with -1.5 to -2 camber would be best, with as much caster as possible. Also for the rear, 1mm toe in to aid rear end stability under power with -1 deg camber would be ideal. All these are IMO of course for a pure streeter.

Seems ZOOM is disappearing from the shelves I see too..

I probably wouldnt use one in your engine if it has no problems Just stick with a good oil. If you have a noisy lifter then be cautious when you use it. You dont want junk plugging up your oil pickup screen if the engine is seriously sludged.

How much was the difference in the spray patterns before and after? Was it worth the money?

Forget the regulator and just get bigger injectors. Simple! I'd probably avoid SARD as they are single jet type and not all that ideal for DOHC heads. Nismo/Apex/HKS make quad jet designs which are much better.

Go the powerFC. Considering the prices of the PowerFC has dropped considerbaly, there is no reason not to consider one... Back in the day when they were expensive, the SAFC was (and still is in some cases) a very good 'go between'.

Change it after u use the cleaner. No need to change the filter twice.

Quit complaining and give 'er a good ol rev. She isnt a shopping trolley ecotech V6!!

It would open less if you want to run more boost. This is because you are diverting more of the exhaust gas into the turbine.

Actually all SR20 turbos are steel wheeled. The S13 SR20 has a T25G and maxes out at approx 170ish rwkw. The T28 on the S14/S15 gets closer to 200rwkw (without cams).

IIRC, at AIR (adelaide) on a weeknight 4,6 & rotary meets its $35, and then $50 on the weekends. The two times ive been Ive been able to get 10 runs, and plenty more if I wanted to. Kinda sux when you have cops camping out the front gates on drift meets tho..

Yes the colder it is, the more dense it is, but the AFM also measures this increase in density (ie flow) so more fuel is injected to compensate. The real reason is that hot intake temperatures make the mixture more detonation prone due to the air/fuel mix unable to remain stable and hence brings on detonation.

What I mean is, the GTRS reaches >1bar at approx 3700rpm on an SR20. So for a CA18, its gonna be a tad over 4000rpm I would say. Thats kinda pushing it for a street car, which would already be gutless off boost with a CA18, wouldnt you say? The GTRS looks great on a RB25 tho!

Ermm....???

Looks pretty crazy! Good luck with it. Oh and I hope you dont use that shitty turb-manifold gasket. Looks like the cardboard junk that came with SSAutoChrome manifolds...

Castrol Syntrans has worked exceptionally well for the cars I've used it in Less than half the price of redline too.

Well if u got the same symptoms when you unplugged teh AFM, then it is def an AFM problem. Go to the chk sensor menu and see if you get any voltage reading for the "In-1". If you do, then the AFM is plugged to the SAFC correctly. So check the ECU - SAFC connection.

Shouldnt cause any damage, but its a sign that maybe you should get your mapping or other things rechecked.

That should be fine man, I wouldnt worry at all.

Hope they get here before Xmas, as one of em is a pressie!

I find that i get zero knock at idle on a hot day, rising to 20-30 on a hot hot day. The best you can do is try to do the knock calibration on a hot day, with the car fully warmed up. This helps control the 'false' readings.

When you did your springs, did you get a 4 wheel wheel alignment done? That is the first thing I'd do to try and fix the problem. If that doesnt fix it, then start looking at hardware...

Sounds like you have an idle problem related to an intake leak or stuffed idle control valve or an AFM problem. Give the AFM a clean and check for leaks. When the RPMs drop real low, like 400 and below, the oil pressure skydives and im not suprised if the gauge almost fell to zero. This is becaues the crank is spinning very slowly, so the oil pump is not pumping fast enough to replace the oil loss at the bearings hence, very low pressure indeed. Btw you've checked your oil level yeah? (The oil light coming up during braking on the other hand is not a good sign ie next to no oil in the sump!... unless you have an auto and the revs dropped very low during this time and fits the explanation above)

Thats mad. I thought electric cars didnt have anywhere near that potential...

Yep it'll only show how much vac/boost your running etc if you have a MAP sensor based car. Like a 1JZ-GTE in a soarer etc.