Could be also that you're getting excessive blowby and the oil/air mixture is being pushed into the turbo via the crankcase ventilation. (Evident by oil in the air box). I highly recommend you invest in catch can kit(s) if you are doing track work.
Yeah those camber settings are alright for street/track. However you wont get -1 on the rear on a lowered car. You'd need adjustable arms (I recommend them over adj bushes). Also camber has no effect on ride height, rather its the opposite.
If its way off spec, it can upset the ECU. It should be adjusted so that the output pins are approximately 0.7 kOhms when the throttle is shut. If you can measure the voltage on the ECU side, 0.5V is ideal instead.
What for? Its just a marketing gimmick. Its probably only 10% ester. If you want a real ester oil, go for Motul 8100 0W40, Redline, Torco SR-5 or Motul 300V.
Most EFI cars fire injectors sequentially on normal operation (ie individual). However during cranking, most cars actually batch fire (group) until the engine is started. Some cars also go to batch fire mode above a certian RPM eg 5000rpm.
Yeah with no knock sensors plugged in, the ECU pulls enough timing so that is suitable for low octane grade... and yeah you'd suffer quite a bit of performance loss!
First of all, make sure the gear judge is set up correctly. Then make sure gear based learning is on and then set the duty to about 50% and go from there...
Go to www.nissansilvia.com and go to the sponsors section. Plenty of garretts for sale there.
IMO dont waste your money on the HKS. Get the Garrett GT28RS. Its virtually identical to the HKS 2530. (Compressor is 62 trim on the garrett, 63 on the HKS = bees dick all difference).
Normally oils dont help a worn viscous diff because the viscous unit itself is sealed and uses its own internal fluid. Normal clutch or torsen type LSDs use the diff fluid's frictional characteristics to lock up so changing oils in those can help..
Only worth it if you the GTR injectors are running out of puff.. otherwise you wont gain nothing. I presume u have some sort of ECU management to accommodate the new injectors so it should be ok with the regulator in the future.
Do you know what oil they put in? Its a possibility they put in the wrong stuff and your shifting can suffer.
Also yeah it costs about 1k to get a gearbox resynchroed and u might aswell do the bearings too.
Yeah I agree with SK. Those after alignment specs are pretty darn worrying. And why did they insist on positive toe on front and back? Haha I bet the car probably doesnt wanna drive too straight.
I'd probably shoot for about -1mm total toe in on the rear, and neutral toe on the front.
I would get a leak down test done. But it sounds ok since all the cylinders show even compression readings.
Does your dipstick pop out after a boosting session? Also is it using a lot of oil?