Busky2k

Fanging it hard at >120C for a long period is no good because the oil thins rapidly and wouldnt provide an optimum film thickness to maintain good antiwear properties. Anywhere between 80-110C is safe but if your oil is constantly under 60C, or it takes more than 10 minutes to reach 80C, I'd definitely be thinkin about getting a thermostat.

Interesting. I too wouldnt mind trying a longer diff in my 200SX. Its a 3.69 ratio... Maybe a swap is on the cards? hehe

Don't ever use teflon based stuff. No car needs it.

The myth that the lesser rotational mass = more fuel consumption on the highway or more throttle required to maintain speed on a hill is complete rubbish. I'm glad someone else who actually has a lightened flywheel realises this! If anything, a lesser flywheel = better fuel economy because less energy is wasted trying to turn the darn thing.

I'm pretty sure the NEO motor is continuously variable. I hypothesize that it was one of the changes to make the RB25 more emmisions friendly.

It should be perfectly fine. 5% ethanol isnt anything to worry about. Just wish this stuff was in SA!

Just like to say thanks for everyone who attended the cruise even if they didnt stay for the whole duration. Sorry the organisation wasnt the best and a few cars had a few hiccups but I think we all had fun and thats the main thing. It was cool to meet a few new people. Duc and I hope to catch you guys again sometime when we're in Adelaide soon!

Just a reminder, no, we're not cruisin through the city or the bay or any other cop hot spots.

There was a minor hiccup with the meet point. Please check your PM's again. Thanks

Pull the engine oil cap and peer inside with a torch. If theres plenty of varnish or sludge, chances are the car wasnt looked after very well so I'd be beginning to wonder about its over all condition, not jus the turbo.

Nice info. Where'd ya find it?

You need to get a parasitic load test on your car whilst its switched off. Anything over 100mA will drain your battery quite fast. Also short trips won't give your battery a chance to fully charge. I suggest buying a "battery fighter" unit from Jaycar and leaving the car on that overnight to keep the battery fully charged.

No problems Roy. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I too would run Castrol R 10W60 if the car is used regulary on the track, to counteract the thinning of the oil as the oil temp soars. But if the temps are regularly over 130C, I would recommend an oil cooler As for 10,000ks, the best thing to do is an oil analysis. That way monitoring aspects such as fuel dilution, wear metals and TBN can truely give you an indication of how long an oil can stay in an engine. Again, if the car is track driven, 10,000ks is too much as it would be loaded with soot from blowby and fuel diluents (from rich running). For a pure street car, 10,000ks on M1 should be no problem.

OK PMs have been sent. My apologies for the lateness. Please notify me if I have missed anyone. Iceduck was contemplating some karting beforehand, so if anyone was interested, throw me a PM.

Ok guys once I finalise the details with Iceduck, I'll PM you guys tonight! Thanks for the interest!

M1 EP is a very good oil as it contains roughly 30% more detergents and antiwear additives compared to the regular M1 formulation. I would recommend it over the Castrol R with no hesitation. And there simply would be no point changing it out any earlier than 10,000kms (as its rated to last 15,000 miles!) IMO the 10W-60 is too thick. It belongs in a smoke blowing sigma.

Hey guys. Iceduck is back in town for a couple of days so we were planning on headin out on a small cruise this friday night. Would anyone be interested in joining us? Just a small thing, nothing over the top, just a nice cruise through the hills etc. I haven't got anything specifically planned as of yet, but I'll come up with something when I get an idea of the numbers. Thanks Leo

My GFB tends to hold boost at 14psi regardless of temperature. However it spikes when u floor it at high RPM which I dont like.

Constant 4WD? Nope.. Just jump into a GTR and observe at the torque split gauge.

Never been a fan of HKS's pods as they seem to filter no better than chicken wire.

My 040 is the noisest bastard ever. Especially on hot days. How empty was your tank?

NGK BKR7E NGK's V-Power Coppers. The only plug you'll ever need.

I have both the SAFC/SITC. They've served me well but if I decide to change turbos, they'd be binned for a PowerFC without a thought.

You'll find after some boosting your oil temp will get to 105C quickly eg on a cruise. Nothing to be alarmed about. I'd set it at about 120C.

I'd try removing -2 timing across the board in one of the Settings menu. I cant remember exactly what it was called, but its the 3rd or 4th item in the right hand column. Problem is, it reverts to 0 again after you restart the car.