Jump to content
SAU Community

Busky2k

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,884

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Busky2k

  1. Busky2k
    They shouldnt need cleaning unless they're fecked up good. I'd be wondering why they fouled up in such a short time. Just because they've got a bit dark doesnt mean they've fouled. Maybe you shoud post a pic?
  2. Busky2k
    Whilst driving, check the O2 sensor on Sensor Chk is looping from 0-1V when cruising at 60 or even accelerating off the lights slowly. If its stuck at 0.7V or more whilst on the move, you're running rich. Have you determined your L/100ks? ie fill up, log the ks, fill up again and see how much petrol you went thru..
  3. Busky2k
    I was pretty prejudice against the AVC-R. But after extensively fiddling with mine for a while, I have no complaints at all...
  4. Busky2k
    If you don't have any problems with the IK16s, just leave em. Maybe next time go the IK20s as they are the same as the NGK heatrange 6 (instead of 5 as you have now).
  5. Busky2k
    Just buy them you tight ass Duc. LOL j/k. I have both and you are welcome to borrow them man. Although the timing light is pretty crap, it does the job.
  6. Busky2k
    I've used BKR7E or BCPR7EY (Copper V-Powers) and they have never have missed a beat. Lucky for me I have an SR20 so changing the sparkies are a 5 minute job. Absolutely no fouling problems with a 7 heat range on a street vehicle.
  7. Busky2k
    AAA Exhaust.
  8. Busky2k
    Don't go over 5000k or you'll loose light output and also they'll start to look more blue than white.. which is gay really. OEMs are 4300k.
  9. Busky2k
    The stock one should be pretty quiet unless its stuffed or you got an aftermarket one in there..
  10. Busky2k
    You wouldnt want to be using diff oils in your gearbox, trust me on that one. They are friction modified for 2 different purposes.
  11. Busky2k
    To me it looks like its running lean down low, not rich LOL Its not that bad, maybe a lil closer to 13:1 on the midrange and she'll be even better.
  12. Busky2k
    Yeah I think the whole reason why the needles in factory cars like to sit rock solid center is so that the varying conditions dont worry a n00b driver.
  13. Busky2k
    You gotta get the "high pressure" version of the 255L/h Walbro. Then that thing can really power through high pressures, as good as the 040 easily. If its not the high pressure version, then its not as good. Personally I'd go bosch. I just hate the noise though..
  14. Busky2k
    I dont think turbos are rated at a PR of 2.0. I've seen most of them just rate their turbo's hp at the maxium flow, regardless of the PR. A good example is the GT2871R, who's hp ratings are judged at a higher PR than 2.0
  15. Busky2k

    Sau-sa?

    Busky2k replied to Kikuchi's topic in South Australia

    I'm 13 y.o and I have an R34 GTR. I still don't have a licence yet. Can I still join?
  16. Busky2k
    Well drilling removes vital mass from the disc, weaking its structure and reducing its heat sinking capabilities. Drilling is fine for the street, but you wont see em on any track car.
  17. Busky2k
    Dun matter, own a Skyline and you'll be going over the pits sooner or later no matter where you buy it unfortunately. Bloody cops!
  18. Busky2k
    Changing the O2 sensor alone when you have a PowerFC won't really help. As cubes said, chuck it on the dyno and get your low RPM and low load cells checked out. Try get the tuner to tune them as close to 14.7:1 as he can, and then let the PowerFC O2 feedback do the rest.
  19. Busky2k
    75W90 is whats recommended, although 80W90 will work perfectly fine. Because you have the standard viscous LSD, there is no need to use 'LSD rated diff fluid'. Any GL5 rated gear fluid will do. Castrol Syntrax would work good!
  20. Busky2k
    Slotted for sure. Cross drilled are for looks (and even then they dont look tuff anyway).
  21. Busky2k
    Personally I'd rather get a timing light and advance the CAS manually on any car. That way the advance amount is predictable, and free. Dodgy ebay shit as usual...
  22. Busky2k
    35psi all around would be alright. I once ran 38 psi in the rears of a 255/40/17 and the middle wore out faster than the edges so it was too much pressure.
  23. Busky2k
    Nope, same size as the R33 injectors.
  24. Busky2k
    Have you bedded the pads in??
  25. Busky2k
    The majority of turbos are water cooled so there is no reason to idle down after a normal drive. If they are designed correctly, even with the engine off, water can still syphon through the turbo for a few more minutes after shutdown. Its the older school oil cooled turbos with the crap oils they had back then that were a problem. A good synthetic with a oil cooled turbo is usually good enough not to warrant a turbo timer anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...