Busky2k

Generally you loose power with ethanol blended fuels, so you have to advance the timing to get some of the power back. The good thing is, with careful tuning you can get good gains over the regular 98 RON stuff.

Hmm interesting indeed. But lit looks as if the tapering may introduced some turbulence in the wastegate gases?

Bendix advanced were suprisingly OK for street use and the odd spirited drive. Very low dusting. However they are definitely not for continual hard braking like the track, nor are they meant to be either.

My friend's R34 pulls roughly 215rwkw and hits 5.1V on his PowerFC.

It should have come with instructions on where to wire it up to.

Damn I should have come along. Too busy though! Might have to catch up with you boys soon before I head interstate for work.

I just hope that people dont fuel up on this stuff and start turnin the CAS to wind in some extra timing just cos they read it in a magazine. I can see this happening...

I don't know if its been mentioned, but 5% ethanol is pretty much like pissing in a lake, so it shouldnt have any problems at all in most cars. I wouldnt be afraid to try it.

I understand where you guys are coming from, but cmon, for $1k I got a turbo back exhaust 3 years agp. Back then, you couldnt even smell a Jap catback for that money. Even ET wanted that much. Ziff... If you are on a budget, dollar for dollar, Jap exhausts are not value for money IMO. Granted the price falls in the last few years have been significant in terms of japanese performance parts. Anyone remember how much PowerFCs were 3 years ago? Hahaha I guess you need a ride in my car then. You barely even hear the exhaust at cruising speeds, with zero cabin drone. I agree I've seen alot of dodgy exhausts, but thats cos noone gets a proper center muffler. At least japs still use good center mufflers instead of those hotdog resonators that do absolutely nothin! Ah well, horses for courses! Btw pkblade, my exhaust only has one 20 degree bend besides the dump pipe.

I take it you havent seen work done by AAA exhaust then. Theres no way a Jap system at 3x the price could be any better. In fact, for the same price, AAA would still give them a run for their money. Its all about the wank factor IMO. There is no R&D in a friggin straight 3" pipe. And their mufflers from what I have seen are no better than locally made stuff. Full sik Apexi cannon! Another 50kw! Yerr mate..

Well although I have an SR20DET, that install looks wrong. You've basically just looped it back into the cam cover again! What you need to do is join the breathers on both sides together first, so that they _both_ go into the inlet of the catchcan. Then the outlet goes straight to the turbo. Excuse the crap diagram but I hope you get what I mean; catch.bmp

AAA Exhaust . I recommend them 110%, although you're cuttin it fine at $500.

Only thing is if you get a retune on the ethanol stuff, you gotta keep on usin it!

I never found sticking filters on the rocker cover did any good, cos they saturated with oil pretty quickly. The first picture is basically a filter, that goes in line between your rocker cover and the turbo. It filters out any fumes so cleaner blowby gases go into the turbo. However it doesnt solve the PCV issue, as oil still gets into the intake manifold/valves etc. The second picture is designed not to go in line, but actually divert the blow by gases into the bottle and out to atmosphere. I use this one and I prefer it, cos that way, there is guarantee of no junk getting into your intake. However if you go this way, you have to block the PCV or you will have big vacuum leak because it pulls air through the rocker cover at idle and light cruise.

You get what u pay for, but it doesnt mean that you're gonna get a dodgy job if its a bit cheaper and vice versa!

Well not everyone wants to buy synthetic so yes, I suggested the mineral oils, although I would not use them myself. If the diff oil is going black, it is most likely to be poor quality (ie lots of oxidising), poor sealing issues, or there is lots of wear happening!

Well the oil wont go black in a diff, cos theres nothing to contamniate it with, but it still might be 'worn out'. You can safely use any GL5 oil that is rated for a differential. It does NOT have to specifically be for an LSD type diff, because the viscous unit is not affected by the oil. Cos you like castrol you can use; Castrol EPX 80W90 Castrol Multitrax Castrol SAF-XA (Synthetic) Castrol Syntrax (Synthetic) <--- Recommend this one. Cheers.

You might have to recheck every sparkie for a correct gap. Those gaps are pretty darn small if you ask me! Also the BCP/BKR range are all copper. If you have a lot of mods, I would probably go the BCP7E (or BKR7E). The only difference between the BKR and BCP range is that the little metal tip on the opposite end (where the coils touch) are about 1mm shorter, which should be of no problem.

I'd be replacing the battery anyway if the cell was dead. You might end up putting extra strain on the alternator if that dead cell shorts itself...

Some decent quality multimeters have duty cycle function. Just make some terminals and prove the injector harness when you need to.

Rich means the engine is burning more petrol than the stoichiometric ratio ie 14:7:1 (air:petrol) at a given moment. OTH, less petrol than 14.7:1 means running 'lean'. However, lean or rich could be any condition above or below a 'target' ratio, such as 12:1 on full throttle. To Richen Up = more petrol To Lean Out = less petrol

One of the guys I know got his SR20 rebuilt by Nisspeed. Might be worth checking them out...

You need to describe the liquid a bit better. Whats the exact colour? Is it thick? Thin? Exactly where from the motor is it dripping from? A pic would be best if you could post it up. It could even just be water from your air conditioner..

Synthetics breaking off 'chunks' of crud in a high mileage motor is nothing but a stupid myth. If anythings gonna do it, its your idea of throwing in kerosene or diesel fuel into your motor. The detergents in oil do almost nothing for existing deposits. Rather, they help prevent them instead by keeping the contaminents in suspension. Once they deposit and form varnish or sludge, these detergents cannot do anything about them. Besides, PAO base oil synthetics have a low solubility coefficient and thus dont readily dissolve crud anyway. They're good at not leaving them there in the first place.

LOL synthetics dont have a lot of detergents in them? Seems like you need some re-education Synthetics almost always contain higher amounts of detergents in them compared to mineral oils...