Busky2k

If you are going to upgrade the rotors, in the group buy section they are selling caliper mounts so you can use bigger rotors IE GTR rotors. I'd be seriously thinking about that since you are replacing them anyway!! Then the usual good pads and fluid.

The T518z is the T25 flanged TD05H-18G. It has custom housings on both sides to make it a true bolt on for an SR20. This includes bolting onto the stock dump pipe, stock hot pipe and stock air intake. My pal with the T518Z on his S14 is now making 275rwkw, thats pretty phat!!! Btw Roy with cams I found my SR20 lost fair chunk of low down torque, I really dont like it. Its like I'd get blown away by even a 1.6L pulsar unless I have it above 4000rpm.. just a note... Also I think the GT-SS is a waste of time being a 60 trim compressor. Thats no bigger than the standard turbos on the S14/S15! (Turbine is better though).

I remember reading once on GFB's site which said they don't make light weight pulley's for the RB motors because of reliability reasons.

Damn if anything you're right on the rocks!!

PowerFC. Then grab a set of cams and a 2835 Pro S later on for some serious mumbo

Just start her up man. Thats what I have done whenever I've taken a turbo off. The turbo doesnt spin very fast at idle. If its a new turbo, it might have helped just to squirt a bit of oil into the turbo cartridge before you attach the oil lines. Buts its on already so dont worry about it.

So you gained <3%. Not much really.

Yeah the whole purpose of bedding is to get the pads to deposit some resin onto the rotor. To get this happening you need to do some pretty hard repetitive stops (but not over the top). That way you'll get the most from your pads.

Get your auto electrician to check the 'parasitic' load. Some component of the car might be draining too much power when its off. It should be be under 50mA. I know my car goes flat after 2 weeks cos my parasitic load is roughly 100mA which is definitely too much. God knows what component it is though. I suspect its my shitty alarm.

I'd pull off the oil filter, give it a refill of oil as much as you can and then prime the oil pump by feeding oil through the center hole on the oil filter mount.

Yeah I would predict the low comp high boost would make more power. This is because the loss in thermodynamic efficiency from reduction in compression is would most likely be well offset by the extra charge in the cylinder from higher boost. How much more power it'll make is anyones guess though. Have you messed around with a compression ratio estimator? Its intersting to see that the dynamic compression ratio of a 7.5:1 @ 28psi engine is _roughly_ the same as with a motor at 8.5:1 @ 22psi. Also compressor housing changes only really alter the pressure ratio behaviour I believe, not the actual compressors flow unless its way off.

Wow man take a chill pill. Its just a discussion forum. I never meant to offend you. My apologies if I came about this way. I didnt read that you work for Fuchs either. Actually I would have a few questions heheh.. Anyways oils are like peoples favourite drink, no matter how good a drink is to you, others may still not like it. Cheers.

Never heard of their oils, just the fuel. That makes you wonder...

Yep BITOG. A memeber for a long time now..

Well by saying an API SM oil is good, then I guess everyone can get away with GTX2 then? API specs are not hard to meet. ACEA are tougher. <_< Every half decent oil is API SL/SM rated now. Mobil 1 is SM. So is Castrol GTX2. Does that mean they are as good as each other? Obviously not. So by saying Fuchs meets API SM its suddenly a great oil? No. OE certs are usually harder to meet than API standards such as MB and VW's so they are more relavant. (Although I wouldn't expect GT1 to meet OE specs just like 300V, Redline etc) Looking at raw details such as the base oil, the additive packages and performance in UOAs is more of an indication of how good an oil is, not just what API spec it is. And Fuchs in this regard have shown nothing out of the ordinary. Then again any oil isnt even at least API rated SL, it doesn't be deserved to be put into any car whatsoever! Cheers B)

Just to let you guys know, API SL means pretty much shit all in terms of how good an oil is. Its friggin easy to pass, even Castrols shitty GTX2 at 20 bux a bottle is API SM certified now. API = nothing. I'd be more inclined to look at other OEM certifications such as MB 229.3, VW and Porsche recommendations to half tell how decent an oil is.

Well compressor surge wont stress a ball bearing turbo like a skylines like it would on a bush bearing like the S13-S15s. Ball bearings can take a hell of a lot more thrust load than a bush bearing so I would say it would be 'safer' to have your fully sik flutter bro with a skyline than a silvia. Either way tho I'll take a BOV thankyou very much.

Its because at higher gears the rev climbs up not as fast as a lower gear which gives the turbo more time to spool up and produce boost. Ie it might take a few seconds for it to eventually produce 5psi at 2000rpm. But in lower gear you're not sitting for a few seconds at 2000rpm. Ie; Nail it in 4th at 2000 rpm and it'll stay at that revs for a while lettin the turbo spool up. Nail it at 2000rpm in 1st gear and you wont see any boost until later because the revs are climbing and the turbo is spooling up trying to 'chase' the revs so to speak.

Yeah so what. Mobil/Castrol/Shell do all that do dah too. It doesn't mean their consumber products are the best out there though. I wouldnt hesistate to give them a shot however. Pity the GT is too damn thin for our motors.

I reckon one of your rear CVs are gone.

Roy, I think you'll find the S14/S15 SR20DETs with VCT spool the turbo a fair bit quicker than the S13 donk thanks to the added overlap in the midrange. Disable the VCT and the turbo becomes suprisingly alot more laggy...

Thats a very nice TS for 265rwkw!! I thought we needed closer to 300rwkw to get that kinda TS in an a Skyline?

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You probably gain a bit of power because you did an ECU reset when you pulled the old battery out. That would explain the power difference.

Its an S14 whose intercooler is 60mm thick. I swapped it for a 80mm S15 intercooler because they were a straight swap. Out of interest I did pressure drop tests on both of them. Anyways I have a Blitz FMIC and I would recommend it to anyone. The time it takes for a stock intercooler to become heatshoaked is verrryy short indeed. Just drive around on a hot day keeping _off_ boost, put your hand on the intercooler and you'll almost burn yourself!!