Busky2k

Who'd you get it tuned by Chris32? I suggest you take it back and tell the tuner that the midrange needs more work. You paid for a better tune, not just neccesarily a better peak power figure..

I would prefer the 6th because my car goes into Regency on the 31st of this month. Haha...

Independant Battery eh... Might have to go down there to take a look. Good batteries are never cheap unfortunately!

You'd need a very good reason to run >40psi. The max psi rating on the sidewall is not an indication of the pressures you should run. I would try with 34psi all round and tweak it from there based on your personal preference. I run 35 on the front, 36 on the rear (235 F, 255 R)

Unless you spend your time on full throttle all the time, fixing the AFRs at high RPM wont really get you any more ks to the tank. Thats because at part throttle (95% of driving) AFRs are 14.7.

It shouldnt be running so rich and using so much fuel. Just buying a fuel adjuster is masking the actual problem. Have you tried an ECU reset? You should also try an ECU diagnostic as one of your sensors may be playing up.

Well that is what hes after isnt it? lol

I just love how quick the RB25s come on boost... For the power its excellent...

He obviously has no f**king idea if he says just to wind the CAS as far as it'll go. Its a recipe for disaster. Go see a real dyno tuner who can tuen your SAFC and timing to get you safe and real results...

SAFCs dont control boost. haha..

Do a pressure drop test. Tap a boost gauge between the outlet of the cooler and TB, and also the outlet of the turbo and intercooler input. Do a couple of dyno runs and compare the readings. Shouldnt be too hard to do. If its more than a couple of PSI, theres your problem. Also you might need some headwork to get some more top end power..

Gimme a PM if you need to..

So whats the best way of gettin good amount of additional castor? Obviously bushes at 0.75 deg look pretty lame. I've heard of people redrilling the stock rods so they can be 'pushed' back further. How's that sound?

Correct. The PCV pulls air through the crankcase at idle in most cars and when you put the catch can in, you've basically created a nice vacuum leak. What I do is pull the PCV out and then plumb a hose from there to the catchcan as an additional output.

Well, thats how I explain it, based on the observations of the flywheel differences. I'm no physics pro haha.. But try this. At idle, give it full throttle to like 4000rpm and back off real fast. The revs dont die straight away do they? It still goes up a couple more hundred RPM after your foot is off...

The rev limiter may not 'keep it' at the exact RPM beacuse of inertia. Imagine spinning up a bike wheel with your hand really hard and letting go.. It'll still accelerate, even when you've taken the force away. This much like an engine. Its accelerating, you cut the fuel and due to inertia it'll keep accelerating for a couple more hundred RPM. Thats why the peak RPM may a lil higher than the set limit. Ive noticed with my lightened flywheel it doesnt overshoot as much, presumably due to the less inertia the lightened flywheel has.

I dont think coilovers is what he is after, especially since he just wants it to be lowered daily driver. Whiteline springs is what I would recommend and maybe throw some swaybars in and get a good wheel alignment. Done!

I reckon 12.5 is pretty much a borderline AFR for any street car, especially when using piggy backs such as the SAFC. Ive found that the AFRs can wander around a bit over time, as the ECU adjusts its long term fuel trim maps. If i were you, I'd consider pulling adding 2% to the map to give you an AFR closer to 12...

I put mine on the dump pipe, about 3" behind the stock O2 sensor.

Bout 700 bucks. You'll need a new bung for the exhaust, as your ECU still needs the stockie O2 sensor to function properly. (FTW, I dont think narrowband simulation is as good)

Have fun there man. USA is a ball. So different to the life we have here! Oh and whatsisname, its CARRRNNNN THE CROWS!!!!

Yeah good idea. Constantly 130C will cook any cheap non synthetic oil quick. Not to mention the oil will loose its viscosity alot at that temp.

Wow I thought we were gettin extra juice outta these Splitfires.... Ripped off!! Just like thier friggin spark plugs..

I'd be interested but closed to the end of october...

Hmmm. The only issue I have in terms of 'knock retardation' etc is that if the petrol is rated at 98 RON, is it tested including the ethanol? If 2 fuels are 98 RON rated, and one is ethanol blend, then neither should have advantage over the other. SAFF would theoretically allow MORE timing if they start with a 98 RON base and add ethanol, rather than a 96 RON base and then adding the ethanol to make up to 98 RON. (Ethanol has an octane rating of ~110) Might be worth firing off an email to SAFF to see which option they take to make their 98 stuff.