Busky2k

The O2 sensor doesnt know that you've got ethanol in it, but it will detect the leaner mixture and the ECU should compensate somewhat. Ethanol has a lower calorific value than petrol, so basically the SAFF stuff (or any other ethanol mixed fuel) has less 'bang' or energy for the same amount of petrol. Thats why your economy is suffering, and is one of the major downfalls of ethanol mixed fuels. Usually the economy drop is roughly 2-3% in most cars for a 10% blend. If you're suffering much more than that, then something is wrong... So IMO the bottom line is that you're not really saving money on ethanol fuels, unless its able to at least compensate on the pump price with respect to the fuel economy loss. That means roughly 5c/L cheaper. I'd have no problems using it in your average 10 year old car I guess, but I dont see the point using it in our cars.

3800 rpm on a dyno? Thats pretty shocking response from a small turbo!! On an SR20 you'd get full boost much sooner than that. Loaded on a dyno you'd easily get 1 bar at 3000 RPM! (So I naturally would have assumed the same for the RB20)

Yeah closed loop only uses the low load 'cells' of the map but I am not sure of the exact specifics. But yeah the engine will run fine without closed loop. But if its constantly running rich, that means you'll have more carbon deposits in your combustion chamber and anything coming out from it.

Somethin is definitely wrong there. You shouldl have full boost at 3000rpm or there abouts. A restrictor would actually make more boost if anything. You sure you aint got leaks somewhere? The compure would have to be remapped extremely poorly to make the engine come on boost that late.... Hmm oh yeah. You sure its a 2530!! haha....

Green = Good (>50% charge) White = Add Water Black = Bad (<50% full) Colour indictors are pretty universal amoungst all batteries.

Nice results for the 3071. When do you get full boost? Is it internally gated? Like the 3071-WG on atpturbo.com?

It should be around 12.4-12.6V when the car is off and the battery hasnt been charged in a few hours. Any less than 12V and the battery is pretty dead.

You cant adjust the camber on the front without using an aftermarket bolt kit.

25W50 is damn thick for those conditions. You shouldnt be using something that thick anyways, even if it isnt that cold. SK's recommendation is good. Mobil 1 OW40 is good too.

Went thru regency today. Found out my appointment isnt until Thursday! Damn! Permit rego gone to waste...

I thought it was purely a speed cut. Ie wont let the car go above 180kmh so theoretically the line should have stopped there.

Its lamda Or more commonly known as a wideband o2 sensor. I recommend innovate motorsports LM-1. I have one and its great. Only thing is that you have to buy it from overseas. Thing is IMO its kinda hard to isolate load points on the street for a novice tuner. Dyno is always best..

The factory injectors wont be able to supply anymore than 200rwkw worth of fuel. The Garrett 2530, or rather, the GT28RS can support a bit more than that. So yes you'd need bigger injectors and also an ECU to control the show. $2500 supplied and fitted is resonable, but I think you can do better than that.

Yeah well if you've seen Adelaide tap water you'd start thinkin twice. Thus having a few litres of dodgy tap water still sitting in your block makes you wonder. Distilled water is cheap, no excuses. Oh and I haven't had good experiences with Nulon's green. On 2 cars of mine the water pumps seals died soon after changing themover. Nulon green is actually a hybrid OAT/Glycol coolant.

I recommend using concentrate because you can never get all the water out the block if you cant get to the drain bolt. That way the remaining water doesnt dilute the premixed coolant. I reckon Castrol's stuff is good. Also Nissans concentrate is good. If the coolant capacity is 8L, just add 33% of it (Ie 2.7L or 3L) and fill with distilled water. Remember to drain, and rinse the system with distilled water twice (ie fill--->run for 5 mins--->drain--->fill--->run for 5 mins---->drain) Too easy...

You guys realise that your speedo is pretty off at speeds >200kmh. It might say your doing 250 when you're really only doing about 225.

I bought mine from Tyrepower Blackwood for $250 ea. 255/40/17. Very happy with them. For a GOOD survey on tyres available on the market, visit this; http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/index.jsp Keep in mind not all th emodels are applicable here, ie Bridgestone's. The tyres you should sus out are the summer models.

14.7 is what the factory ECU would target for anything but high load. Sometimes leaner is OK provided the EGTs are under control. However 14.7 is perfectly safe, and also will give you very good economy. There shouldnt be any reason why you should go richer under vacuum conditions.

To check for closed loop, go to the etc menu and then "Function Select". See if the O2 F/B is on or off. Go here to see what enabled/disabled looks like; http://www.clubrx.org/media/pfc/PowerFC_FD3S.pdf Page 39 in acrobat.

Haha wrong quote there freebaggin

I wouldnt use 'the cheapest oil you can buy' but rather something like GTX3 or something. Who wants deposits and shit in your engine from running back yard oil...

Sorry "hard tuned" (before I edited it) meant cars with programmable ECUs that tuned to make more power than the stockie ECU. Ie leaner AFRs, more ign advance. Thus they are more succeptable to detonation from a shitty fuel. (being 'harder tuned' than factory if you get what i mean). 4door, your a crack up mate. In the real world, that means the clearances between your piston and bore open up due to wear. I think the rings suffered too IIRC.

Yeah good mate. Yourself? Oh yeah when I was surfing the SAFF website, seems this 98ROn stuff is 10% ethanol. Good for emmissions and the environment but could have unpredictable results in modified boosted cars like ours.

Actually a lower sulfur content is better for your engine, cos it can form sulphuric acid and etch away in your combustion chamber when the engine is cold. It was one of the main contributors to cold start engine wear. Was reading that in a SAE paper a while back..

Normally you coat in & out. I thermowraped mine. The roll was about $50. Pretty easy to do, and just as effective IMO. Some say it makes the metal fatigue over time but after 2 years of using it, I've had no troubles at all. You'd be foolish to wrap a turbo manifold however.