Busky2k

Drags tonight? I thought it was drift practice tonight?!

Nah sorry, just sayin you know. Alot of people go around badmouthing these products without any actual experience. Hybrid intercoolers were like that when they first started out, now they've become real popular you know? So I say, give a product a go...

Well. I got one for my car, and a lot of people I know have them too. I havent heard of anyones crack on the forum yet, and they fit perfectly. Some peoples flanges needed a quick mill, but other than that its fine. One guy has it has had it on his car for well over a year now with constant thrashing and nothings happened yet.. I wouldnt go bad mouthing a product you have not used. If it breaks so what, just buy another one. You could buy 5 for the price of a HKS one (not that Im saying the HKS is not worth it).

Yep.. The SAFC II should interface the Z32 no problems. Even in the instruction manual it shows you how to run a Z32 on an SR20. With 550ccs... you got 370ccs yeah? So 550/370 = 48% lean on all maps. Thats pretty hardcore, not sure if the ECU will be happy with that... I'd try a 35% reduction across the board, and let closed loop work out the rest...

When does this beast reach full boost?

Steve, looks like your oil temps are just fine. I wouldny worry at all. Btw, if you want cheap rear camber arms, visit www.garage-13.com $250 for a new pair.. bargain...

Steve, if you notice that your oil temps are consistantly on the hot side (ie 20-30C or higher than coolant temps) I would suggest you use a thicker oil to help maintain oil pressure as well as sufficient viscosity. Something synthetic like Mobil 1 5W50 or Castrol R 10W60 would be suffice until you get the oil cooler, and then you can go to a thinner one after (like a 10W40 etc). If you arent using a synthetic, I suggest you change to one straight away beacuse mineral oils like to leave deposits at high temps.

Makes you wonder what its like when people bolt these onto their SR20DETs... An EBC or a decent boost controller like the TurboXS one should help spool it up a lil better... also a good tune on the PowerFC will certainly help things too!

Apparently EBC as done a major reformulation on their Greenstuffs (now in version 4) to address issues such as rotor warping/scoring and glazing. Also all over the net, scooby guys are raving about their new pad, the Red Stuff Ceramics. (One rally guy said it was better than the DS2500s!) Might be worth looking into...

The immense torque of a boosted RB30 would be bloody awesome.... Anyways keeping to the orignial post, you might be able to get into the 12s with a stock turbo IF you get a real good launch (60fts <2 sec, preferably lower). But for guaranteed 12s, get a bigger turbo like a HKS 2530/2535, ECU remapped, injectors and bingo...

I'd be getting worried with sustained temps >120C . If its synthetic, its not an issue of oil breakdown, but more of the oil turning to water and sufficient lubrication will become an issue.

Yep sounds like you have a healthy engine!

I have a catch can, but I never noticed any condensation... Hmmm

Not sure about the RB's, but the SR20 has the coolant hose to the TB because it has a 'fast idle cam' which keeps the TB slightly open when the engine is cold. As the coolant heats up, the cam slowly moves so that the TB is fully shut. I'd check for a device like that before you remove the coolant lines...

Guys dont get confused. Some quick shiftin thru the net strongly suggests that MON is a better indication than RON of a fuel's resistance to detonation. Quick quote; "The MON is a measure of the gasoline's ability to resist knock under sever operating conditions. MON affects high speed, part throttle and performance (under load such as in passing). The RON on the other hand, is a measure of gasoline's ability to resist knock under less severe conditions. RON affects low to medium speed knock and engine run-on (dieseling). " VP's Motorsport 103 is some nice stuff. With a MON of 99, thats well over 10 units increase over say, Shell Optimax which is rated at 87.5. Motorsports RON is 107 by doing a lil math. Thats some serious fuel. VPs C16's MON is 117, and thats a whole new ball game again....

9... Doing OK i spose.. alot of it is new tech!

You could try upping the preload on the actuator by using washers or redrilling the brackets using Joels method. However im not sure which method will work on your 2530. I thought the HKS actuators were 0.8bar std? However I dont know how well the 2530 will work above 1 bar on your engine, as its more of a turbo suited to a 2L instead of a 2.5L so it'll be flowing alot more at 1bar on an RB25 vs an SR20 for example. Maybe this might explain the boost drop at higher RPM? What plugs do you have? 0.66 is a pretty small gap already. Hmmm...

When I first bought my car I noticed it had a flat spot around 5500rpm, and thats the RPM where the VCT changes the cam timing. I bumped the timing up by 3 degrees, and the flatspot dissapeared. Dunno how to explain it tho..

Probably just condensation, although its an awlful lot..

Run a quote thru Anthony (President of GSR/EVO club). He usually has pretty good prices. http://www.phillcomrally.com.au/ Also check www.discpads.com.au or www.autospeed.com.au

Autobarn sells PureOne filters. And yeah Amsoil filters is definitely one of the better out there. It has one of the best balances between filtration and oil flow. Here is an EXCELLENT and scientific study on oil filters! http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/

Nah I noticed a very slight grey powdery substance coating the piping after the intercooler. This was when I bought the car stock which had always run the stock airbox and paper filter. I think its just very minute amounts of dust settling in the pipes, over the last 7 or so years the car had been run for. I wouldnt worry at all!

If you wipe your finger on the inside of the pipe and you got residue, thats oil for sure. And yeah venting to atmosphere is a big no no in terms of emissions, but bah, who wants their intercooler and inlet manifold filling up with gunk eh? PCV and EGR dirty up inlet manifolds like you wouldnt believe. Its gross! =(

I have a Fujitsu Lifebook P-(Something). Its a great lil laptop with everything you need. I recommend it! If you are in for a laptop, make sure its; -Intel Centrino -512mb RAM Those 2 specs I find are the most important if you are not into playing games. At work, we have BenQ laptops. They're not bad, but bloody noisy and battery life is lousy. Ones a celeron, the other is a Pentium 4-M.... IBM make great laptops too, ditto with Dell and Toshiba. Good luck!

You can dump the oil at 5000ks no problem and probably is a good idea considering all the wear particles from running in are floating around in the oil. I'd stick something in there similar to what they give you at the dealership. Something along the lines of Castrol Magnatec (cos I dont think synthetic is specified by Nissan). After that, i'd be using a proper synthetic like Castrol R 5W30 from then on..