Busky2k

Damn. The good ol bush bearing units are dead still after a coupla seconds. I want a ball bearing turbo now *sook* haha Bush bearing units have quite a bit of friction I reckon when i was free spinning mine by hand.

Another vote for the BCPR6ES. However the NGK V-Power (Grooved electrode) are arguably the best plug they make, and its usully the same price. Code number? BCPR6E or BKR6E is your poison! I dont think spending the extra on plats/iridiums are justified IMO. One tank of octane booster etc ruins em! Dont get the 5 heat range plugs. Not needed. Stick with 6 as suggested.

They sound like the stock rims right? 42psi is pretty darn high, probably the max tyre pressure it can handle (check the sidewalls). On my S14, the tyre placard recommends 29psi but thats a bit too on the comfort side. About 32-34 should be cool

I'd disconnect the wastegate so the flap always stays open. Its only held by a circlip I think. Otherwise the AFM idea is pretty cool! The thing is, ok so you find they put an extra 50ks on the car. What can you do? What would u say? What would you demand? I wouldnt know what to say or demand...

Damn thats crazy. If it had just been freshly rebuilt, why did you give it a bootful anyway? LOL Anyways good luck with the new rebuild...

It would handle whatever you throw at it!

I have whiteline springs and the stated ride height was pretty much accurate to the mm. Go here and it'll show you the ride heights you sohuld expect; (345mm F&R, center of rim to guard) http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/fact_shee...line_R33GTS.PDF FTR, shocks dont make squat all difference to ride height. Only springs!

Interesting indeed but I think you will need to have the motor on TDC or otherwise if one of the intake valves are slightly open, then pressure will pressurise a cylinder and escape past the piston rings or into the exhaust if there is valve overlap!

Damn sorry to hear. In walkerville tho? I woulda thought that was a half decent area...

Thats very nice to gain power aswell as richening up the mixtures for saftey! Did Shaun add any timing anywhere on the map?

Use NGK V-Power plugs (The ones with the groove in the electrode). They're probably the best bang for your buck plugs. Or you can waste $100 and hope you can feel the difference on the iridiums/plats IMO. Fact: I can run bigger gaps w/o misfire on my V-Power plugs than my 10k old Platinums they replaced.

130k probably

Hmmm I would have thought pushing 13:1 ratio down to 12 wouldnt get you any more power at all? I reckon 1 more degree of ignition timing at peak power RPM will get you 300rwkw since your so close Otherwise, drop the exhaust from the cat back and try again! Haha j/k

I believe it goes from open to closed loop operation once the 02 sensor is heated up and reading properly (may take 30secs to 2 minutes) and also once the engine coolant has reached 40C. (Not exactly sure on the figure)

I still like my trusty bleeder. (GFB Atomic) For $700 for an EBC, or for a set of HKS Cams, I think I know which one will give me more power. ALtho If you are planning on runnning more than 1 bar on the stock actuator, then any bleeder will be prone to spiking. Get a hardened up actuator (set at say, 11psi) and with a bleeder you should have very good results. This is because the bleeder doesnt have to bleed as much pressure to reach, say 15psi, so the boost is more stable and less spiky compared to when using the stock actuator of 6psi.

Next step would be a set of HKS cams if you dont want to change the turbo! Also a bigger AFM might be a good idea as the pressure drop wouldnt be as much. Altho Im not sure how big they are on the RB25, but all I know is that the SR20 (50mm) is barely big enough for a kei class car!!

If it was unleaded it should say it on the inside of the fuel door. If it doesnt, use LRP. It shouldnt hurt to use LRP in an unleaded car anyway.

I think the compressor is exactly the same as the ones used on the T28 on the S14. That means its the T3 60trim compressor which u can find the map here; http://www.turbocalculator.com/compressor-...-maps/t3-60.jpg However the RB26DETT might use a different trim, not sure.

Yeah my father has a 928S aswell. Pretty nice car, with a quad cam V8 which was pretty high tech back in the mid 80s. Goes not bad, the long gearing holds it back!

The main reason why we want an oil cooler is to keep the oil cool. (NS lol). WHen its cooler, its much more viscous than at higher temps where it'll turn to water and you will loose significant pressure. Then you are putting your engine at risk. So for those who dont have an oil cooler and would like to give their car some beef around the track, put some thick oil in, just for the day. Castrol R 10W-60 would be a good choice. It wont thin out anywhere near as much as a thinner 10W-40 etc. It'll retain its viscocity which will keep things under control. However the oil is still gonna get shit hot, so make sure you give the car some rest at appropriate intervals to prevent breakdown of the oil. My S14 has an oil cooler stock, a real crappy one but its still better than nothing. Sure its no substitute for a real oil cooler, but a much better bet than not doing anything at all.

No. Most likely in this case, the ECU goes into 'limp home mode' (open loop) and will leave the rev limit at 2.5k. Pull the plug on the AFM and the same thing will happen. The ECU utilizes the O2 sensor in every situation except for when the RPM is over 4000.

Ditto with Zahos. The V-Power plugs are the way to go!!

Hi Steve. My car sits just below stoich on idle. So the O2 readout sits on about 0.05V to the flickering between 0.1-0.8V. I can dial in less or more fuel with the SAFC and it will fall to near 0 or sit at above 0.8V constantly, until the ECU relearns this and leans/richens it out again, although it does take some time. Its strange how yours doesnt change. Have u tried dialing in more fuel and seeing the result? At exactly 14.7 AFR, the O2 voltages will fluctuate rapidly between 0.1-0.8V which shows that the O2 sensor is functioning properly. As a O2 sensor wears out, the rate of flux decreases to the point where it becomes very unresponsive. Nissan state that the voltage must flucuate at least 5 times per 10 seconds or the sensor is worn. A sensor which gives a constant value despite a change in AFR is stuffed. On decel you should get 0V because the ECU cuts fuel completely. I get stoich AFR right upto about 4psi. Btw I've seen that it takes about 45-60 seconds for the O2 to become responsive from a cold startup. Thats on a sensor thats done 115,000ks....

AFAIK Its running an auto. Not sure what variant. C4 perhaps?

Now thats a terminal speed I'd love to have hahaha