Busky2k

Yes, Im very sure ROIL contains Chlorinated Pariffins, and is one of the major reasons of my reservations about it. Cholrinated parrifins are suceptable to breakdown into HCl (and thus is corrosive) as JimX said, due to condenstation in the oil which can form on cold start up . Image that, HCl in your engine! Chlorinated parrifins are used in hydraulic oils etc where condensation is not really an issue. In an engine, it is. I hope Jetpilot can elaborate on this.

Im wondering why the camber is double on the right compared to the left? It should be fairly equal, especially if you have adjustment on the front. Neutral toe on the front is best for the street, and maybe 1mm toe in on the rear would be nice. Maybe take it back and get it done again (i wouldnt do it for the full price tho) But yeah otherwise your alignment is still ok!

Their forum is a gold mine. The articles are good, and not sponsored by any companies. Its down to earth, check out the video section! Air filter tests etc...

Definitely close them down to 0.9mm or 0.8mm as suggested. You shouldnt have any problems then!

Rwkw these days basically is just an indicator on how much you've spent on your car. Thats all it seems...

Yeah Raybrig globes are pretty expensive, altho not as expensive as PIAA. US$23 is pretty expensive tho, more like $10 is the go?

Damn Im in Brighton aswell. Sorry to hear, hope those theives get run over by one of us sometime!

Try eBay?

The powerFC has to get its reference value from the CAS. If the CAS is off, then whatever the PowerFC says, its going to be off by that much too.

Yeah I have an 040 in an S14 aswell, and when the fuel is pretty low, it sorta cuts in and out when the road gets bouncy or takin a corner. But never had any hesitation in the motor. But anyways I shouldnt run the tank that low. What I did was bend back the bottom circular plate so it was parallel to the bracket. Then I mounted the pump as low as it would go. Try doing that, as the stock pump has a sock which helps it suck up fuel right at the bottom.

Hmmm maybe its having trouble picking up fuel or something? Did you mount it all the way to the the bottom of the bracket?

Hmmm. I paid $20 for an OE filter. What a rip! Oh yeah, and the reason 300V smells nice is because its ester based! In uni we made some simple esters and they smell pretty fruity!

For 1/2 liter/1000ks you're most likely not gonna get any tell tale signs. When a car starts blowing blue smoke due to shot rings you'll be using alot more oil than that. If your car smokes as soon as u start it, valve stem seals are gone. Otherwise your turbo seals could be on their way out aswell. What oil are you using? You could use a thicker oil like Mobil 1 5W-50 to slow the consumption, and it'll have no ill effects.

I wouldnt use an engine flush in that case. What you'll end up doing is dislodging all the junk and then it'll possibly plug up your oil filter pickup screen. Hello no oil pressure and new bearings! If it runs fine, just leave it! Otherwise you could try some diesel oil like Mobil Delvac 1300 (fairly cheap) and its got a tonne of detergents in it which will break it down slowly over time.

SR20 factory reading is 156psi to be precise You crank about 6-8 times. But yeah another way to check if your rings are gone is to monitor your oil useage and to check spark plugs for fouling (usually a bad cylinder will do it). Also sometimes with cars that use alot of oil or just are plain old have alot of carbon in their combustion chambers which can raise compression past factory specs.

Gave that thread a thorough read. Thanks for that, keep us informed. Might consider getting the turbine snout bored out a coupla mm, sounds interesting indeed!

Which hankook tyres are you using? If its not the Ventus Sport K104 then I'd definitely look at replacing them. And yeah just like everyone says, cut down the toe and camber and it should help the problem!

Hey Dean, whats Bill gonna do to hiflow your turbo? Change turbine/compressors? I wouldnt mind looking into seeing if he can modify my turbo. Not real interested in spending >$2k for a new turbo....

Yeah quite a few people have 240-260rwkw on ns.com with the GT-RS. Thats including HKS Step 1 cams, manifolds and the usuals. The GT-RS is a serious turbo, arguably the best for the SR20 in terms of response and power. I wonder how it would be an RB25! http://members.iinet.net.au/~jim.barber/pi...power_boost.jpg Check that out, > 1bar at 3500rpm. Nice nice... Search ns.com for more info.

Greg, over time the entire body of oil will come in contact with the sump plug, because its constantly sloshing and moving around. It wont have the same surface area as a filter obviously, but a magnetic sump plug does work!

Nah they are two different turbos indeed. The S15 unit is a very responsive turbo and is limited to about 210rwkw. The GT-RS is a touch laggier (but still very good) and can reach upwards of 260rwkw on an SR20 (using lots of boost as Merli says). Oh, and the GT-RS is almost triple the price aswell What I was trying to say was that you can just buy an S15 Turbo 2nd hand or new from Nissan and its alot cheaper than the AVO turbo. Theres nothing 'unique' about it, but it seems a perfect companion to the CA18.

I think the GT-RS is a bit too small for the CA18, its more suited to a SR20 so I would say its a bit biased to compare it to the AVO unit. Also, the AVO turbo it seems is exactly the same as the GT28 320hp units sold by Ray Hall, GCG & Horsepowerinabox. I emailed AVO to ask em what the difference is (because their "AVO" turbo seem to use the same wheel trims and A/Rs as the garrett unit) Ie looks the same as an S15 turbo!

Hmmm I might pop past, dunno if the car needs to go on the rollers again tho LOL.

riceline, stock heat range is 6. 5 is a 'hotter plug', and you use this if your 6 range is prone to fouling, but it shouldnt under normal driving conditions. So I dont know why anyone would go to 5 unless somethins wrong. People like to go one step colder (7) like I have once the mods start compounding up. NGK say that you go one step colder for every extra 60hp you add to a motor. But I think 7s is good enough for most modded cars, 8s for cars with _alot_ of power. All it does is make sure the plug dont overheat under lots of boost become a potential source of detonation. More info on NGK's site. V-Grooved models seem to have better ignitability. I could run bigger gaps w/o misfire with V-Power plugs compared to Platinums but your mileage may vary. They're cheap and you cant go wrong. If you're completely stock, just stick to stock gapping which I believe is 1.1mm. Otherwise close it down to 0.9mm if you have misfiring problems.

1 ppm = 1 mg per liter! ie weight/fluid vol But yeah the Filtermags are a good product. The only problem is the cost an absolute fortune! I think you're best off just chucking one of those lil supermagnets from Jaycar onto the sump plug and leave it at that. The filter will do the rest...